The author expressly disclaims any and all warranties, express and implied, that any information contained herein is accurate. There are no warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. This guide should never be considered a substitute for professional instruction or years of experience making smart climbing decisions. Your use of the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide indicates that you are: (1) assuming the risk that errors exist in this guide; and (2) acknowledging that your safety while climbing and bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain and elsewhere is solely your responsibility.

Friday, January 15, 2010

Makeout Boulders Miniguide

A small section of chossy boulders that climbers rarely visit, although this area is well-used and abused by others. The rock isn't great and the problems aren't either, but you're likely to have them all to yourself during the day, along with the cans, bottles, glass, forgotten undergarments, cigarette butts, discarded condoms and whatever else is left behind by the nighttime visitors. Visit them shortly after a Trash Bash and the area will be fairly clean, but the problems will still be of the lowest quality. Where: Park at the Corwin Simmons Rock pullout 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge, which is the switchback pullout immediately before arriving at Capstan Rock. Walk back down the road 50 yards and take the Flagstaff Trail up the mountain for 70 yards and you'll see a cluster of boulders on the left. All but one of the described problems are in a tight cluster right there and the last problem is up the hill on the road at the switchback 0.1 miles before the Crown Rock Parking Area. Although you can scramble up to that problem, it is probably best if that problem is accessed from the road further up.
1. Truth or Dare V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2010
Ascend the face just left of the arête up the pebbles and poor crimps to the top.
2. Makeout Overhang V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
This is probably the best of the problems here, but that's not saying much. From a sds at a jug, move up using huge feet to access a rotten flake. From here, go to a shelf system and the top.
3. Dry Hump V0 sds ... FA: Kevin Cropp, 2001
Begin from a sds at the base of a short chossy hump of rock, use some small edges to reach the sloping top and pull up and over.
4. All Hands V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Start on good holds on the far right side of the south-face. Hand traverse up and left above a small cave, then pull up onto the slabby top. Lichen has probably reclaimed much of this problem.
5. Phallus V1 sds ... Chip Phillips, 2002
From a sds under this short phallus, start up a rotten pocket system and pull up and over onto the top. The best thing about this problem is that I actually convinced Justin Jaeger to climb it.
6. Short Stuff V0 sds ... Chip Phillips, 2001
Begin from a sds on a good sidepull pocket 10 feet right of Phallus and pull up and over a very short west-facing overhang.
7. Roadside Attraction V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
Just off the road, begin from a somewhat awkward sds on the arête and pull the bulge on the side of the boulder facing the road. This problem has the best rock in this zone, but it's only 6 feet tall.

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