The author expressly disclaims any and all warranties, express and implied, that any information contained herein is accurate. There are no warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. This guide should never be considered a substitute for professional instruction or years of experience making smart climbing decisions. Your use of the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide indicates that you are: (1) assuming the risk that errors exist in this guide; and (2) acknowledging that your safety while climbing and bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain and elsewhere is solely your responsibility.

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Top Shelf Ridge Miniguide

Top Shelf Ridge is located one tier above the First Overhang Ridge. Don't be misled by the name, these problems are far from "top shelf." Flagstaff afficianados can have fun with the Moon Rock problems for a few minutes and that's about it. When I cleaned Moon Rock up in 2001, we referred to it as the Frozen Mud Wall and believe me that name is well deserved. Others have visited the Frozen Mud Wall, renaming it Moon Rock and I'm fine with that. I'm sure hundreds of others looked at it before me and laughed it off as worthless. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park in the pullout on the right side of the road at the left-turning switchback 2.1 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge. Your car will be facing First Overhang no more than 30 yards away. Walk past First Overhang, Pinnacle Colada, Tombstone Spire, Loose Flake Spire, Face Wall and High Boulder, all on your right. When you arrive at The North End (again - on your right), turn left (uphill) and walk 20 yards up behind the huge slab. Moon Rock will initially be obvious and on your left. The last problem is 30 yards further south, right before you can head straight downhill back to the car.
1. Moon Left VB sds ... FA: Kevin Cropp, 2001
From a sds on the far left side of the overhang, climb straight up to a pebble-pulling finish.
2. High Moon Traverse V0 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Begin from a sds on the far left with #1, move up then traverse right across the highest shelf and topout above #6.
3. Middle Moon Traverse V0 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Begin from a sds on the far left with #1, move slightly up then traverse right across the middle line of holds to topout with #6.
4. Low Moon Traverse V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Begin from a sds on the far left with #1, traverse right across a low line of holds avoiding the lowest ass-dragging crux towards the end by angling up just a bit. Go to the top with #6.

5. Rocky Mountain Ass-Dragger V5 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2003
Begin from a sds on the far left with #1, traverse right across the lowest line of holds with #4, but stay very low for the last half for a technical crux with your back just above the ground (or a thin pad) that leads to the starting holds for #6. When you get there, get your feet underneath you and head for the top via #6. It's hard to describe the exact sequence because there are a couple of solutions, but the lowest set of holds are obvious and the problem will become obvious when you try it.
6. Moon Right V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
From a sds on small holds on the right, climb out the overhang at its apex.

7. Last Bit of Fun VB ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Approximately thirty yards right of the Moon Rock problems, climb good holds for 13 feet up the right side of the face near the arĂȘte.

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