The author expressly disclaims any and all warranties, express and implied, that any information contained herein is accurate. There are no warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. This guide should never be considered a substitute for professional instruction or years of experience making smart climbing decisions. Your use of the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide indicates that you are: (1) assuming the risk that errors exist in this guide; and (2) acknowledging that your safety while climbing and bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain and elsewhere is solely your responsibility.

Saturday, May 31, 2008

One-Arm Rocks Miniguide

One-Arm Rocks is a curiosity. Read any printed guidebook covering these problems and most of the problems are described as "one-armed problems." WTF? The most extreme example of curious "problems" is a gymnastic move Rob Candelaria performed out a roof behind One-Arm Rocks in the late 1970's. Find it and try a reverse mantel (Pat Ament refers to this move as a front pull-over), where you begin sitting with your back to a flakey roof. Lean back and do a partial pull-up - lifting your ass off the ground - then throw your legs over your head onto the top of the boulder. I'm sure Rob and others did it with style, but to passersby that day I'm sure I looked like a fool just trying to repeat it. To me, the one-arm problems are silly endeavors, but decide for yourself. Most folks forego the circus tricks and one-armed problems for moderate TWO-ARMED pulling on nice roadside boulders. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. One-Arm Rocks are located 15 yards east of the Crown Rock Parking Area, 30 feet from the road. You can't miss them.
1a&b. Smith's Face V2 (a) / V4/5 (b) ... FA: Richard Smith, 1967 (one-armed)
Use both arms. Right next to the tree, ascend the left boulder’s north face. For V2, start on a left hand crimp over with the tree and any number of right hand holds (a). For V4/5, begin on opposing underclings (b), perch on a high feet and attempt to uncoil. A one-handed send of this rig from any starting holds would be interesting to watch, although Richard Smith was purportedly 6’7".
2. One-Arm Flake V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed)
Use both arms. Start just below the incut sidepull flakey arête right of Smith’s Face and climb to the top using both arms. This is another confounding one-arm problem, although the ground has probably eroded a bit and it used to be possible to start on the incut flake.

3. License Plate V6 sds ... FA: Marcelo Montalva, 2006
Use both arms. This is a tricky and powerful sds to #2 that begins low with your LH on the sloping lip of the undercut and RH on an undercling sidepull under the little roof and about 18 inches off the ground. After 2-3 moves, you'll arrive at holds on #2, from which you can cruise to the top.

4a&b. One Arm Overhang VB (a) / V1 sds (b) ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed) *
For VB, ascend jugs on the bulging overhang up and right to the top using both arms (a). For a little more difficulty, a sds begins on thin crimps below (b). A one-arm ascent is fairly obvious ... from a stand start, thrutch up and right on jugs and rock over.
5. Right Hand Arête V3 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin awkwardly from a sds on the arête left of Right Hand Mantel and stay on the arête all the way to the top.

6. Right Hand Mantel V? ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed)
Use one arm for this description. This is the classic of the one-arm problems, mostly because of the ridiculous and famous photos of Pat manteling out the topout using his right hand. Reach high to a small RH crimp, pull on and thrutch to an good incut on the left side of the high rail which you will need to mantel out. I have no idea how to grade one-arm problems, hence the question mark for the grade.
7a&b. Right Hand Face V1 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *
Use two arms. Start low with your LH on a good sidepull and RH in the slot (a) or begin awkwardly from a sds matched on the lowest obvious jug (b). From the LH sidepull and RH slot, make a long reach up and right to the starting crimp on #6 and head for the top. Most exit left at the top of the arête, but the best finish is straight up from the horizontal rail via a long reach to the very top of the block.
8. Right of Passage V4/5 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Use two arms. Begin from a sds on the far right with two LH fingers squeezed into a two-finger hole. Bump up to and establish your RH on the best part of the sloping rail, then reach way left to an undercling next to the slot on #7. Throw your right heel onto the sloping rail and do a huge crossover to the RH starting crimp for #6 before heading for the top. Again, the best finish is to head straight up from the high horizontal rail via a long reach. Tricky with really cool moves.
9. Rising Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown
Use two arms. On the other side of the right boulder, surf the lip to the top and pull over.

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