The Unmentionables Miniguide

The Unmentionables refers to previously undocumented and obscure blocks that reside between Road Sign Rock and the Backside of the Amphitheater. There are no gems, although there are a few problems of dubious quality on dubious rock. There is also nothing hard here, as the rock quality does not make it amenable to hard problems. The one not-quite-redeeming quality is that if you check it out, you will have the place to yourself. A few of these obscure problems are worth checking out if you don't mind dicey rock quality. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the stairs to Capstan Rock, then continue up the hill passing the Capstan on your right. Cross the road passing Road Sign Rock on the right. Where the faint footpath takes off downhill towards the Notlim Boulder and Hollow's Way, another faint trail will head up an initially gentle hill to the west to two sets of boulders. You will reach the first cluster of climbable boulders and 5 problems after 5o to 75 yards. To reach the second cluster of boulders and 6 more problems, head straight uphill up a steep and loose wash just after the Bonzai Boulder. After 75 yards and after passing lots of worthless choss on the right, you will come to a small platform. One problem is up and left, while 5 more are off to the right.

UNMENTIONABLES BLOCK

1. Unmentionables Warmup VB ... FA: Unknown

A couple easy moves straight up and you'll be on top. Problems #2-4 are on the north or downhill side of this boulder.

2. Fingerlock Catfight V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

From good edges on the northeast corner, a hard move gets you to an undercling fingerlock pocket. Now pull the bulge and go to the top.

3. Lucky Strike V3/4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Start 10 feet right of #2 and steer up and slightly left from stance to stance up the bulging slab to the top. Sketchy, until the last bit.

4. Paris-Roubaix V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Oh the cobblestones! A couple feet right of #3, ascend cobbles and pebbles up this 25 foot grooved slab with committing moves up high. Trust those stones, but definitely utilize 3-points of contact. It saved me from a death-defying tumble.

BONZAI BOULDER

5. Bonzai Bulge V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Just north of the faint footpath, pull the northeast-facing bulge up onto a slab. Avoid the small bonsai tree that may still reside a few feet to the left.

PEAR BOULDER

6. Pear-Shaped Women V5/6 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006

When you arrive at the top of the steep hill and the second cluster of boulders, look to your left and 20 yards away is this lowball north-facing overhang. Begin from a sds on an obvious RH hold and any of 3 LH holds that are within reach, the lowest of which provides the stiffest challenge. Pull up and over the bulge.

OVERTON FIN

7. Overton Fin V1 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006

When you reach the top of the steep hill, look right and you'll see this diminutive little piece of stone under a chossy spire. Begin from a sds and surf left across this short fin of good rock and pull over on jugs.

UNMENTIONABLES ALCOVE

8a&b. American Spirit V2 (a) / V4 (b) ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006
Continue past #7 around and into the alcove for #8-11. Moss and lichen are trying to reclaim this one. Right of #9, ascend a bulge and slab from the obvious LH sidepull and RH jug (a) or RH cobble (b). Descend off to the right from the slab.
9a&b. Spooky V2 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006
Opposite #10, ascend the arête right of the chimney from a head-high start (a) or start a move lower slightly to the right for V4 (b). Pull over onto the slab and head for the top.

10. Seeing Ghosts V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Opposite #9, ascend the left side of the chimney for 16 feet to the sloping topout. The rock quality at the bottom is horrid, but it gets much better the higher you get.

11. The Hand of Man V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

The name comes from an obvious handprint left by someone years after this problem was established. Start low and left on crimps and trend up and right to an unsatisfying finish below a crumbly headwall guarding the top.