A vertical warm-up problem before venturing around the corner to the skin-shredding bulge problems on the south side.
2. Hip Check V5/6 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
Begin from a sds on opposing edges very low on the corner below the shelf. Establish on small sharp features that look chossy (but aren't), work your feet and make a blind RH slap into a shallow dish up and right on the slab. Work your feet again up onto the shelf, get a LH undercling, pull onto the slab using miniscule features and dance to the top. It's not over until you're laughing about it at the top.
3. Left Bulge V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967 *
Although this problem has a funky start and is relatively short in stature, is still pretty good. Climb the bulge staying left of the seam. The trick is where to start. The lower you move your hands to start, the harder it gets (see problems #4-6). The old school V4 start, described here, utilized a cheatstone to access holds at the lip. Get there today by stacking pads or Gill-starting off a good RH crimp up to a decent LH gaston at the lip. Once there, match, smack up and left to a LH sloper where judicious use of your feet will allow you to reach for higher crimps and the top.
4. Salad Toss V7 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009
In an effort to link the sds for #2 into #3, this problem was done, although the full link-up has yet to be completed. Begin left of #3 using stacked pads or a cheatstone with your LH on a sloper at the lip right of the arete and your RH on a pebbly undercling. From there, make a big toss out right to the starting hold for #3 and finish. I imagine the sds linking #2 into #3 will be done fairly soon.
5. Left Bulge Direct V6 ... FA: Christian Griffith and Harrison Dekker, early/mid 1980's *
Probably the best of the bunch. Start LH on the obvious huge slopey undercling and RH on the horizontal crimp. Now do a quick dynamic move to the hold at the lip, fighting to stay engaged and finish #3. See #6 for an even lower start.
7. Rear-End Rock Jam V3/4 ... FA: Pat Ament, mid 1960's
Start in the crack under the small overhang. Reach up into the sharp, awkward and flaring seam and painfully head for the top. Consider taping up or skipping it.
8a&b. Gluteus V6/7 (a) / Gluteus Maximus V7 sds (b) ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2006 / Sit-Start: Chip Phillips, 2006 *
Ascend the bulge using features right of the seam only. For the stand-up version (a), begin under the overhang on opposing high sidepulls at arms length and have your full bag of tricks ready. The first move is an unreal RF toe-hook and layback maneuver to a RH sloper that will blow you away. From there, use awkward crimps and pimp the tiniest of pebbles, staying right of the seam to the top. If you are bored, add a contrived sds on crimps (b) that off-routes the huge feet out right. The 2 or 3 moves don't add that much difficulty, but I found that my precision suffered on the tenuous moves higher up, so I added a half-grade.
Start under the overhang on the right side and pull straight out the right side of the bulge onto the slab. Weird, tricky and hard. If you can do that, add the contrived sds shared with #8b for full value.