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The author expressly disclaims any and all warranties, express and implied, that any information contained herein is accurate. There are no warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. This guide should never be considered a substitute for professional instruction or years of experience making smart climbing decisions. Your use of the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide indicates that you are: (1) assuming the risk that errors exist in this guide; and (2) acknowledging that your safety while climbing and bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain and elsewhere is solely your responsibility.


Saturday, January 30, 2010

Backside of the Amphitheater Miniguide

I had optimistically hoped the childish graffitti on the Backside of the Amphitheater would be sandblasted away before I added this little area to the guide, but alas ... two years after I told the OSMP folks about it (twice), gave them my phone number and volunteered man-hours on behalf of this project, they still have done nothing and have never called. Try not to let the graffitti dissuade you from a short visit, as it is a nice spot, with at least two excellent problems: a left to right traverse of the entire wall that finishes up top and the up-problem out the center of the overhang. If we can get the graffitti removed, I will try and redo the Miniguide wihout the visual effects. Where: Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past the Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of Flagstaff Road across from the Crown Rock Parking Area. Stay right at the first split and turn left when you reach the Pebble Wall. When you reach the top of the stairs 30 seconds later, head up into the Amphitheater proper and squeeze up and left through the Mongolian Cosmonaut Alcove. The Backside of the Amphitheater is located 15 yards past Mongolian Cosmonaut. The problems face north and essentially get full shade every day of the year, making it a nice place to visit in the heat of the summer.
1. Whiskey Before Breakfast V2 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
Begin from a sds on a rail below the end of the traverse. Slide a little right and pull up and over the short bulge.
2. Hellen Keller V1 ... FA: Unknown
Pull on at end of the traverse, reach up onto the left-trending arête and surf left for 6 to 8 feet across the sloping rail. When the hands flatten out, rock over to a jug on the capstone and stand up.
3. North Overhang V2/3 ... FA: Unknown *
Start low in the center of the overhang and climb straight out the middle of the roof via an unreal crossover and reach to the lip. The crux is over, now match, move up to a hand ledge and keep it together while you pull up and over the capstone. Falling up there could be bad without a whole bunch of pads and spotters.
4. North Overhang Traverse V7/8 ... FA: Unknown *
From the low jug on the far left, traverse right all the way across the face, then up and over at the obvious weakness. The crux comes immediately, but it unfortunately involves avoiding the meddling boulder behind your back/butt without dabbing. Otherwise, a really nice traverse. Variation #1 - Full North Overhang Traverse V8: It is possible to start 4 or 5 feet further to the left on sharp chossy crimps. This may be worthy of V8, but this takes away from the quality of the regular line.
5. Old Mann Boy V5 ... FA: Ken Gibson, 2006
Start at the incut jug on the left side of the wall where #4 starts, pull hard up to a right hand edge and move left to the lip. From there, reach over the lip with your RH to a pebble, then paddle up pebbles and cobbles to safety.
6. Gap Overhang V2 ... FA: Jonathan Thesenga, mid 1990’s
Head around the corner to the left from the Backside of the Amphitheater. Squeeze back into the wide gap between the blocks that form the Right and Center of the Amphitheater. From the stance in the gap, climb the northwest-facing face to an overhang via cobbles, chossy edges and flakes and pull over the top.

1 comment:

Peter Beal said...

I have to say, the polished footholds on this traverse make it really hard, especially for the full version. Soft V9 does not seem unreasonable for anyone under 5'8"