The author expressly disclaims any and all warranties, express and implied, that any information contained herein is accurate. There are no warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. This guide should never be considered a substitute for professional instruction or years of experience making smart climbing decisions. Your use of the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide indicates that you are: (1) assuming the risk that errors exist in this guide; and (2) acknowledging that your safety while climbing and bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain and elsewhere is solely your responsibility.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Notlim Boulder Miniguide

Apparently someone was a fan or detractor of Milton, which is Notlim backwards. Although there are a few lesser-known problems on this block, the Notlim Boulder is known for being home to one of the most coveted V8 ticks on the Front Range in Hollows Way. Done by Rob Candelaria in the mid-1970's, the name was his tribute to the fabulous Jim Holloway. One look at the tangled root-infested landing area, the thinness of the layback seam and the intimidating final move, it is almost inconceivable that this problem was done during the pre-crashpad era. The exposed root system at the base is worrisome until this rig is fully padded up. Although it is certainly not a highball in modern terms, there are lots of ways to potentially come off this problem and hurt yourself. Well padded, however, it is a safe and incredibly aesthetic line to climb in a secluded spot away from the masses. Even better, it faces north, gets NO sun and can have decent conditions even in the middle of summer in the morning and evening. If you can only get on one problem on Flagstaff Mountain, this would be a solid choice assuming V8 is in your price range. Where: There are a couple ways to approach this boulder, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the steps to Capstan Rock, pass it on your right, scramble up the short hill and cross the road. Pass Road Sign Rock on your right and follow a faint and winding social trail that drops downhill to the north into the woods, passing the highball Brown Glass Wall on your right. The trail will deposit you at the base of the Notlim Boulder after about 20 more yards.
1. Botsy's Way V5 sds ... Botsy Phillips, 2007
Begin from a sds matched on a jug on the left side of the little cave. A long tensiony RH move to a sloping edge and a crossover snag of the lip will get you into the easier topout moves. At least 2 pads (one to pad the meddling boulder behind you) are necessary.
2. Northeast Corner V2/3 ... FA: Unknown
From good starting holds above the obvious cobble, step onto the large cobble, go for the lip maybe slide left a bit and roll over onto the ledge.
3. Lifted V7/8 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009
A lower start to #2 with a whole new twist. Begin with your LH on the obvious cobble and your RH on a poor undercling edge and climb the arĂȘte/seam to the lip and pull over via #2.
4. Hollows Way V8 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975/6 *
Best for the grade on Flagstaff Mountain and one of the best irrespective of the grade. Start matched high in the stellar 15 foot overhanging and shallow seam up the middle of the north face and start up the thin holds in the seam. One of the best things about this problem is that numerous solutions exist. Have fun figuring out what works best for you!
5. Right Dihedral V2 ... FA: Unknown
Eight feet right of Hollows Way, use good matching crimps to stand atop the meddling boulder below and reach an incut RH flake. Lay the RH flake back to pull the bulge, veer into the slabby dihedral and make a committing reach move up high on thin feet. I recently re-cleaned this line, making it climbable for the first time in at least 10 years. The potential landing area is about as bad as #4, but it pads up nicely with 3 or 4 pads.
6. Southwest Pebble Pull V0 ... FA: Unknown
On the left side of the thin slabby southwest face of the Notlim Boulder, dance up and slightly right using small pebbles to the topout on opposing underclings.
7a&b. Two Scoops V1 (a) / V4 sds (b) ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001 *
Start matched in edges in a head-high scoop (a) and pinch a second scoop to reach small edges and a handjam crack which you can milk to the top. For the sds (b), begin on the lowest sharp crimps and use a powerful RF heel hook to pull out the overhanging bulge, establish in the first scoop and finish via the stand start.

No comments: