Cloud Shadow's Other Side Miniguide

Not to be confused with Cloud Shadow's Alcove, as that is covered in another miniguide. Cloud Shadow's Other Side is located on the north side of the Cloud Shadow complex of rock up in a strangely isolated spot. There isn't a lot here, but there are a few lines worth playing/warming up on and one absolute gem, Stranger Than Friction, and all of its variations. Where: There are a couple ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Continue along the guardrail past the halfway point in the hairpin turn and look for a gap in the boulders up to the right. Rockhop through the gap up into an open area and you're there. All the problems are within 10 yards of one another.

1. The Other Side Arête V2/3 ... FA: Unknown

Begin on holds at head height on the arête and go to the top.

2. Pebble Wrestler V4 ... FA: Unknown

Just left of #1, start on head-high pebbles on a vertical face. Perch in a pocket foothold and make a big move to snatch a sloping crimp up on the ramp and continue up and right to the topout with #1.

3. Aching Absence V3 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
Directly below #4-6, from a sds climb out from under a little overhang onto the slab.
4. Space Ship V5/6 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2008
Start matched on good edges in the horizontal seam down and right from the start holds on #4. With good feet, stretch LH to the RH starting hold for #4. Then, as you gently lean into the LH gaston, go hard for and catch the lip with your RH pulling your feet up to avoid your pad. Hold the swing and pull over with #4.
5. Rocket V5 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
This is a one-move-wonder out the short overhang on the slab. Begin from a sds up on the high slab on a good RH sidepull edge and a decent LH undercling or thin crimp. Find your feet, make a move to the lip, slide right and pull over.

6. Project V? sds

A lower and direct start to #5 that has cleaned up quite a bit over the last couple years, but has still not been done. Start low matched on a good edge and make two difficult moves up into #5. An even lower start begins way down and left with #7-10 and ascends good but sometimes friable edges up and right.

7. Pulp Friction V7 sds ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2008 *

Problems #7-10 start in the same place from a sds on the detached block. This one climbs out the thin face above on a series of thin crimps to a topout at good finishing holds. ALL feet are on, including the starting block. Bring multiple pads and a spotter or two, as the landing is uneven talus and the integrity of the good crimps is still in question.

8. Doctrine of Equivalents V6 sds ... FA: Scott Neel, 2008

Problems #7-10 start in the same place on the detached block. Begin from a sds matched on the detached block down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up and perform a 6 foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From the good RH pinch, start up the arête with #9, but instead of topping it out straight up, veer right across edges and slopers on the lip until you reach good finishing holds with #7.

9. Santos on Mom's Command V6 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008 *

Problems #7-10 start in the same place on the detached block. Begin from a sds matched on the detached block down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up and perform a 6 foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From the good RH pinch, head straight up the arête to finish.

10. Stranger Than Friction V6 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006 *
A little bit of Hueco Tanks on Flagstaff Mountain that is crazy fun and one of the best problems on the mountain. Begin from a sds matched on the detached block down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up and perform a 6 foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From here, swing your feet through to an obnoxiously high heel/toe hook and continue straight up the little slab feature with body tension, controlled thrutches and bumps involving small edges on the face out left. This one does not disappoint!

11. Pile V6? sds ... FA: Botsy Phillips, 2006

Start down low at a juggy flake in the birth canal hole below #7-10, ascending the left side's slopers and possible jams in the crack up into #10 for the finish. This one is not as bad as the name suggests, but DAB potential exists during one's travel through and exit from the birth canal.