Cloud Shadow's Other Side Miniguide

And I'm not talking about The Alcove, as that will be covered in a subsequent post. These problems are located on the north side of the Cloud Shadow complex up in a strangely isolated spot. There isn't a lot here, but there are a few lines worth playing/warming up on and one absolute gem, Stranger Than Friction. Where: There are a couple ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Continue along the guardrail past the halfway point in the hairpin turn and look for a gap in the boulders up to the right. Rockhop through the gap up into an open area and you're there. All the problems are within 10 yards of one another.

1. The Other Side Arête V2 ... FA: Unknown

Climb the short and obvious arête up onto a ledge. Starting low seems possible, but it's still pretty chossy.

2. Pebble Wrestler V4 ... FA: Unknown

Just left of #1, start on head-high pebbles on a vertical face. Perch in a pocket foothold and make a big move to snatch a sloping crimp up on the ramp and continue up and right to the topout with #1.

3. Aching Absence V3 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
Directly below #4, from a sds climb out from under a little overhang onto the slab.
4. Rocket V5 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
This is a one-move-wonder out the short overhang on the slab. Begin from a sds up on the high slab on a good RH sidepull edge and a decent LH undercling or thin crimp. Find your feet, make a move to the lip, slide right and pull over.

5. Space Ship V5/6 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2008
Start matched on good edges in the horizontal seam down and right from the start holds on #4. With good feet, stretch LH to the RH starting hold for #4. The next move defies description, but here goes ... as you gently lean into the LH gaston, go hard for and catch the lip with your RH pulling your feet up to avoid your pad. Hold the swing and pull over with #4. Crazy!

6. Project V? sds

A lower and direct start to #4 that has cleaned up quite a bit over the last couple years, but I'm still pretty sure this once chossy line has not been done. Start low matched on a good edge and make a very difficult move or two up into #4. Should be double digits.

7. Stranger Than Friction V6 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
A little bit of Hueco on Flagstaff that is crazy fun and IMHO one of the best problems on the mountain regardless of grade. For full value, begin from a sds matched on a separate flake of rock down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up, getting your body completely horizontal and perform a 6+ foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From here, swing your feet through and continue up and slightly left to the top with body tension and controlled thrutches and bumps involving small edges on the face out left. This one does not disappoint! Variation #1 - Pulp Friction V6/7 sds: An Andy Manikowski contribution. Start with #7, but climb straight out the thin face above to a topout on jugs with #9. Bring multiple pads and a spotter or two, as the landing is uneven talus. ALL feet are on, including the starting block.

8. Santos on Mom's Command V6 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008

Start with #7, but from the RH pinch head straight up the arête to finish.

9. Doctrine of Equivalents V6/7 sds ... FA: Scott Neel, 2008

Start with #7, but from the good RH pinch head up the arête with #8. Instead of topping it out straight up, however, veer right across edges on the face or slopers on the lip until you reach finishing jugs.