The author expressly disclaims any and all warranties, express and implied, that any information contained herein is accurate. There are no warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. This guide should never be considered a substitute for professional instruction or years of experience making smart climbing decisions. Your use of the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide indicates that you are: (1) assuming the risk that errors exist in this guide; and (2) acknowledging that your safety while climbing and bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain and elsewhere is solely your responsibility.

Monday, January 12, 2009

Corwin Simmons Rock Miniguide

Just down the road from Capstan Rock, Corwin Simmons Rock has 60 years of history, yet it is largely forgotten for good reasons. For example, there's poor rock quality where the best line would be and it is largely slabtastic and/or inundated with lichen elsewhere. One line is fun, clean and really worth doing (#4), but it's only V1 and there's no good way to get down off the top, so you'll probably end up downclimbing and jumping like I did. There is one presumably undone line that looks doable and is pretty, but it's ~30 feet tall and the rock quality is suspect AT BEST. Where: Again, the easiest of directions. Corwin Simmons Rock has its own little pullout/parking area. Head up Flagstaff Road and park 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at the large formation on the left at the bend in the road just before the Capstan Rock pullout. For your reference, the parking area for Corwin Simmons Rock is about 50 yards before the parking area for Capstan Rock, Cloud Shadow Wall, Notlim Boulder, etc. Good luck with this one!
1. East Overhang V1 X ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s
Climb the center of the east slab to an overhang, pull the bulge on small holds and top it out. Lichen-covered, death-defying and virtually forgotten.
2. East Slab VB X ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s
Similar to East Overhang, without the little overhang. Ascend the right side of the east slab to the top. Enjoy the lichen and pine straw.
3. North Face V2 ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s
This thin problem that appears to have been swallowed by the tree. Battle through the branches and other debris to get on this thin line.
4. Northwest Corner V1 ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s *
Right of the tree, ascend pebbles and edges up a corner to a interesting friction move up high. Good, but be prepared to descend by downclimbing once you're on top.
5. Project V? X
Start on disintigrating crimps and attain an obvious seam. Follow the seam to the top and sort out the finish. I strongly recommend vigorous cleaning and rehearsal on toprope, although I did not see any easy ways to set up a toprope. Yard on every hold and fully weight every possible foothold. Good rock may reside underneath, but the outer surface of most of the rock on this side of the block is friable, chossy and generally disconcerting. The topout is innundated with lichen too.

1 comment:

TK said...

wow. ALOT of info here! Cool stuf for sure!