The author expressly disclaims any and all warranties, express and implied, that any information contained herein is accurate. There are no warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. This guide should never be considered a substitute for professional instruction or years of experience making smart climbing decisions. Your use of the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide indicates that you are: (1) assuming the risk that errors exist in this guide; and (2) acknowledging that your safety while climbing and bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain and elsewhere is solely your responsibility.

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Hobo Cave Miniguide

Hobo Cave ... Boulder's own little Black Hole. There are a number of reasonably obvious lines to try and you can create your own eliminates or link-ups if you wish. Only the most obvious problems are illustrated here, although a number of folks have contrived numerous additional variations including simple eliminates, link-ups, loops, traverses that incorporate loops, reverse problems, sequences that cross the walls of the cave and combinations of all of the above, etc., some of which are suggested as variations. One Stevie Damboise nightmare has 90 moves or so. In a nutshell ... it's a place close to town to climb for free after work (or first thing in the morning) on the most user-friendly stone Flagstaff has to offer, do lots of moves and be home in time for dinner (or in time to shower before work/class). The Hobo Cave's best feature ... it stays dry and climbable under almost all weather conditions.  Where: Park before crossing The Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain and walk 5 minutes up the Flagstaff Trail. Look for a faint social trail on your right after a left hand switchback that cuts straight up a path through the foliage to the cliffband and cave above.
1. Hobo Arête V2 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/7 *
Begin at the rail outside the cave and surf the arête up and left to the jug at 14 feet. It may not look like it, but this is a really nice moderate warmup.
2. Fill My Hole V9 ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2007 *
Begin at the rail with #1 and traverse left around the corner, along the wall and into the very back of the cave. Regroup via a good stance at the jug and then exit the cave via #5.
3. Around the Corner V6 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2002
Begin via a sds in the low dihedral and slide directly right around the corner and up onto the slab. This one is harder than it looks.
4. Hobo Cave Traverse V8 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/7 *
From the jug in the back of the cave, traverse right along the wall of the cave exiting around the corner and establishing on the slab. Great movement on some of the most user-friendly and unique stone on the mountain. Variations #1-4 - Full Hobo Far Left V8/Full Hobo Center Left V8/Full Hobo Center Right V8/Full Hobo Far Right V8: Cut the traverse short and finish out any of the up lines.
5. Burnout V4 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/7 *
From the jug in the very back of the cave, climb out the roof and the left side of the cave to the jug 10 feet up. Variation #1 - Reverse Burnout V4: From holds on the left side of the entrance of the cave, reverse Burnout's moves back into the cave.
6. The Full Horseshoe V8/9 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004 *
Begin on the left side of the entrance of the cave and do Reverse Burnout (see #5) into the cave and finish out the Hobo Cave Traverse. The really good rest in the back of the cave prevents much in terms of difficulty from being added, but you've still got to link it all together. Variations #1-4 - Full Full Hobo Far Left V8/9/Full Full Hobo Center Left V8/9/Full Full Hobo Center Right V8/9/Full Full Hobo Far Right V8/9: Start The Full Horseshoe, but finish out any of the up lines. Variation #5 - Out of Bedlam V10: Do The Full Horseshoe but add the loop from Thunderbird (a variation to #12). Variation #6 - Slingshot V9: Start The Full Horseshoe, but when you get to the arête at the end climb up #1 to the jug finish and down #5 to complete the loop. The Air Loopis of Flag!
7. Hobo Far Left V6/7 ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2007 *
Begin matched at head height on neighboring pinches/crimps and go LH to a good undercling. After a couple more tension-rich moves trend right to the jug finish. Be mindful of the sharp arete directly behind your head. If you're careful, it does not come into play.
8. Hobo Far Left Direct V8 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2007 *
Down and left from the start of #7, begin from a sds on opposing jugs. From there, do the first crux sequence of the Hobo Cave Traverse, then head up #7.

9. Hobo Center Left V6 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/7 *
From the blocky jug just above your head in the center of the wall, bust left to a LH sidepull undercling, then straight up to the jug finish.

10. Hobo Center Left Direct V6/7 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2004 *
From a sds matched on the the lowest slippery crimps, climb up to the blocky jug and the start of #9.

11. Hobo Center Right V5/6 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/7 *
Start on the blocky jug just above your head in the center of the wall, reach right to a sharp incut RH sidepull, adjust your feet and do a wild crossover with your LH up to the sloping fin. Hold the swing and head back left to the finishing jug.
12. Hobo Center Right Direct V6/7 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004 *
From a sds matched on the the lowest slippery crimps, climb up to the blocky jug and the start of #11.
Variation #1 - Thunderbird V8: Climb Hobo Center Right Direct then downclimb Hobo Center Left Direct all the way back into the starting holds. Variation #2 - Mad Dog 20/20 V8: Do Thunderbird, but finish by exiting out the end of the Hobo Cave Traverse.
13. Hobo Far Right V4 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/7 *
Begin matched on a blocky corner hold under a roof featuring a LH crimp and RH sidepull/pinch and climb straight up to join #1 for the last couple moves to the jug finish.
14. Hobo Far Right Direct V8 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2007 *
Begin via a sds matched in the low dihedral. Use a small LH undercling to get up into the start of #13 via a long RH move.


kevin Murphy said...

nice job

Greenspan said...

Hey, all of these guides are great but at some point it would be really helpful as well if there were a map of where all of the bouldering spots on Flagstaff were or if you could post markers on google earth. Thanks again for all of the guides and the betas. Keep up the good work.

Dan said...

Not sure if it was done already, but we climbed a problem starting #14 and going straight left and staying low, into #7.

v8 0r v9

Have fun.

chuffer said...

Thanks Dan. Yeah, I toyed with the idea of adding other contrived variations beginning with the start in the dihedral (with #14). At some point, I had to draw the line and I drew it at straight-up sit starts. Maybe that was arbitrary, but for now I am going to leave it up to folks fooling around in the Hobo Cave to contrive their own projects and adventures. Have fun and thanks for visiting the blog!

Jarrod Renaud said...

this is awesome man, thanks for all the work! very helpful

chuffer said...

right on. stay psyched and most importantly, have fun!

Trent said...

Does anyone have any information about the sport route to the right of the entrance? The bolts looked pretty rusted and I could not spot the anchors so I have no idea what condition they're in. It looked about 5.9-ish from the ground. Might be safe if you can onsight at this grade.

lily said...

The hobo cave is like cats outside for me. Thx so much for posting this guys- my future sends say thank you!! Lol.

James el Egan said...

Is there any history around the half bolted line on the right side of the cave on the "slab" I did some cave routes and ended up topping out, navigating the choss passing two bolts at about 10-12 feet and a piton at about 20 feet up, also while we're on the subject, is there any secret bolted lines near the flagstaff road, most is choss, but I feel like there could be some decent routes off the road in the vicinity of the hobo cave and further up flagstaff road, on the left... any words?

Probrewer said...

Heat from a hobo fire caused a large flake of rock to break off at the base of the mouth of the cave (right hand side looking into the cave). This large flake included hand holds that seem critical for Hobo Far right, and Hobo Far Right Direct.

Unknown said...

Still very confused on #14 and where it goes