The author expressly disclaims any and all warranties, express and implied, that any information contained herein is accurate. There are no warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. This guide should never be considered a substitute for professional instruction or years of experience making smart climbing decisions. Your use of the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide indicates that you are: (1) assuming the risk that errors exist in this guide; and (2) acknowledging that your safety while climbing and bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain and elsewhere is solely your responsibility.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Cookie Jar Miniguide

The Cookie Jar is yet another formation on Flagstaff Mountain with a long and sordid history. Essentially climbed-out in the early 1960's, almost all of the "problems" are proud, but fairly moderate in modern terms. Most folks know the almost unbelievable story about Ray Northcutt's tumble off Northcutt's Roll, which deposited him all the way down onto the road. Undeterred, he completed the climb shortly thereafter. Lesser known, however, is Larry Dalke's hushpuppy solo of this "problem." Talk about performance anxiety! Around 1960 - while Pat Ament was still a beginner, Bob Culp introduced him to Jackson's Pitch, doing it in a suit and tie during an after-work session. I certainly hope it wasn't summertime. Where: There are a couple of ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park at the Flagstaff House Parking Area on the left 0.7 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Walk up the road another 1/10th of a mile until you arrive at the The Cookie Jar which is just off the road on the right.
1. The Rough One V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1969
Next to the road on the boulder just north of The Cookie Jar, pull a challenging east-facing bulge and ascend a low-angle slab and left-facing dihedral to the top. More interesting and challenging than it looks, but it starts almost in the road.
2. Northcutt’s Roll V3 X ... FA: Ray Northcutt, late 1950’s
Ascend the slightly overhung east face to a bulge that deposits you on the slab up top. Be aware that if you choose to boulder this one out and fall, you could bounce and/or roll into the road. Toprope rehearsal is strongly recommended, but make sure you know how to properly use directionals to keep the rope in place.

3. Right Shield V1 ... FA: Unknown *
About 6 feet right of Cookie Jar Crack, just before the hill falls away, climb up then left 25 feet up good edges to the top. There is an anchor up top if you want a toprope for rehearsal, etc.
4. Left Shield V1 ... FA: Unknown *
Climb the tall face with perfect edges just right of Cookie Jar Crack. There is an anchor up top if you want a toprope for rehearsal, etc.
5. Cookie Jar Crack VB ... FA: Unknown *
Climb the obvious south-facing wide crack problem to the top. Good holds abound, but use the toprope anchor if you are unsure. Best VB problem on the mountain, although it is probably wouldn't be the best idea to expect a beginner to boulder this one out.
6. Jackson’s Overhang AKA Russian Nose V1 ... FA: Dallas Jackson or Bob Culp, late 1950’s *
A few feet left of Cookie Jar Crack, pull out the overhang on good holds to a ledge and pull a couple more moves to the top.

7. West Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown
Start under the west overhang, move into a thin undercling and surmount the bulge onto the ledge.

8. Access Pitch VB ... FA: Unknown
The northwest corner has a dihedral and ledges that you can easily descend or get you to the top to set up that toprope.
9. Commitment V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968
Appropriately named, make along reach to start and ascend the bulge on the right side of the north face above a boulder and altogether grim landing. Use the anchor up top if you like.

10. Jackson’s Pitch V2 ... FA: Dallas Jackson or Bob Culp, late 1950’s *
In the middle of the north face, surmount the low bulge starting on a good incut and undercling. The top’s easier, but the rock is a little questionable ... so tread lightly up high.

11. Kor’s Corner V0 ... FA: Layton Kor, late 1950’s
Ten feet left of Jackson’s Pitch, climb the right-angling, somewhat chossy, crack system up and left to the top.


sock hands said...

i still remember you trying to get ticknor and i to climb "the rough one" in the twilight of some 90degree summer day... few other fools were there [capizzi? ng?] and NONE were doing the move and NONE were psyched to be dodging rally racing cars while spotting in the road.


memories of a pre-alpine existence.

it's getting so hot up high, now, that soon we'll have similar memories of sweaty bouldering below 14,000 ft.

chuffer said...

That was a VERY HOT day. I owe a huge debt of gratitude to all my friends who've traipsed all over the mountain with me to climb some of the problems in this guide. You know who you are.