Nook's Rock is named after one of Flagstaff Mountain's first regular boulderers, the infamous Layton Kor. Flagstaff Mountain regulars have been enjoying quiet and surprisingly cool sessions at Nook's Rock ever since. Surrounded by shade-giving pines at the bottom of a steep northeast-facing hillside, Nook's offers up some must-do slab problems, multiple challenging bulge problems above an undercut and a testy traverse with some variations that add difficulty. Colin Lantz added some nice problems here, including the feisty arête problem Slut Bammer and the 30th Birthday Roof problems. There's also Will LeMaire's testpiece, Window Shopper, as well as Butt Slammer, a beauty of a line that hasn't been repeated since a key flake broke shortly after the first ascent in 1974-75. Of note, a number of folks have sporadically worked on Butt Slammer over the years and have continued to pry or break additional flakes off, some of which were fruitlessly reinforced with epoxy. Almost everything that remains seems solid, but there's only one way to find out for sure. Where: There are other ways to approach Nook's Rock, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. Walk to the end of Cloud Shadow Wall, turn left and follow the obvious social trail for 5 minutes to the north/northeast, dropping downhill and passing a handful of problems on the right. At the bottom of the hill - where the trail levels out - a large boulder will come into view. This is Nook's Rock. Appropriately, the first thing everyone notices is Butt Slammer.NOOK'S ROCK
1. Slut Bammer V6/7 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 2004
Start 8 feet right of Butt Slammer at the bottom of an arête. Trend left up the arête with your RH, utilizing sidepulling crimps down on the face with your LH for tension and heel-hooking most of the way into Butt Slammer’s topout.
Start 8 feet right of Butt Slammer at the bottom of an arête. Trend left up the arête with your RH, utilizing sidepulling crimps down on the face with your LH for tension and heel-hooking most of the way into Butt Slammer’s topout.
2. Butt Slammer V? ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Right of The Scoop down in a hole, climb out the impressive south-facing overhang. To start, use a good LH flake and high RH crimp. Originally B1+, an important hold broke soon after the first ascent. Lots of other flakes and edges up high, some of which were reinforced with glue at some point, have recently snapped off as well. Plenty of holds remain. This definitely goes, it's just a question of when and by whom. Bringing lots of pads for stacking would be wise as the landing is primarily onto a 35 degree slab until the very top.
Right of The Scoop down in a hole, climb out the impressive south-facing overhang. To start, use a good LH flake and high RH crimp. Originally B1+, an important hold broke soon after the first ascent. Lots of other flakes and edges up high, some of which were reinforced with glue at some point, have recently snapped off as well. Plenty of holds remain. This definitely goes, it's just a question of when and by whom. Bringing lots of pads for stacking would be wise as the landing is primarily onto a 35 degree slab until the very top.
3. The Scoop VB ... FA: Unknown
Climb the low-angled and well-featured line of least resistance up the southwest face up into the branches. This is also the primary means of retreat off all the problems except the bulge problems on the east side.
4. Nook's Southwest Arête VB ... FA: Unknown
Simply put, climb straight up the southwest arête for ~20 feet.
5. Nook's Slab Far Right VB ... FA: Unknown
A few feet left of #4, climb straight up the far right side of the west-facing slab ~20 feet to the top.
6. Nook's Slab Right VB ... FA: Unknown
A few feet left of #5, pull on just right of 2 trees and climb ~20 feet to the top.
7. Nook's Slab Left VB ... FA: Unknown
A few feet left of #6, start behind a tree just left of center and climb ~20 feet to the top.
8. Nook's Slab Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown
Traverse left to right across the west-facing slab from the base of #7, finishing up #4 or #3.
9. Nook's Slab Far Left VB ... FA: Unknown
On the far left of the slab, ascend good edges up to an easy finish on big slopers 20+ feet up.
Traverse left to right across the west-facing slab from the base of #7, finishing up #4 or #3.
9. Nook's Slab Far Left VB ... FA: Unknown
On the far left of the slab, ascend good edges up to an easy finish on big slopers 20+ feet up.
10. Wimpie’s Revenge V2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Ascend the bulging face right of #11 on the right side of the north face. Utilize mostly pebbles and probably a dynamic move to achieve a ledge, slide right then head up to finish.
Ascend the bulging face right of #11 on the right side of the north face. Utilize mostly pebbles and probably a dynamic move to achieve a ledge, slide right then head up to finish.
11. Wimpie’s Revenge Left V0 ... FA: Unknown
From the deep pocket, ascend the shallow dihedral to a ledge 15 feet up. Slide right then up to finish.
From the deep pocket, ascend the shallow dihedral to a ledge 15 feet up. Slide right then up to finish.
12a&b. Nook's Traverse V8 / V9 sds ... FA: Unknown / sds: Ted Lanzano, 2006
This problem, previously named the Southside Traverse in Benningfield's guide was reported to be V5. Maybe something has broken, but this problem actually traverses the north face from left to right. The rock is impeccable and if it wasn't a rising traverse on an aggressively sloping hillside with a meddling tree in the middle, this problem would be one of the best traverses on the mountain. Anyway, here's the beta ... Although it’s possible to start all the way down near the northeast corner, the normal start is about 10 feet right of here at the left-most obvious "red" hold (a), avoiding some cool introductory possibilities. The crux comes just past the meddling tree before the problem finishes up #11. In 2006, Ted Lanzano did this problem from a low left sds (b) that traverses into the problem staying very low until you reach the red hold and the start for #12a. Variation #1 - Full Nook's Traverse V10: A few years ago, Stevie Damboise tacked an introductory sequence onto the front end of the regular traverse as well as a difficult exit sequence onto the back end. Find the "goblet hold" down near the Northeast corner and do 5 or 6 moves into #12a. Now do #12a, but from the deep pocket at the base of #11, rest/regroup then continue around the corner (staying low) and finish across #8 and up #4. Essentially a V5/6 tacked onto a V8 followed by a bit of a rest and another V8 and a long VB traverse and a VB up problem. LOTS of climbing and lots of places to make mistakes. Enjoy!
This problem, previously named the Southside Traverse in Benningfield's guide was reported to be V5. Maybe something has broken, but this problem actually traverses the north face from left to right. The rock is impeccable and if it wasn't a rising traverse on an aggressively sloping hillside with a meddling tree in the middle, this problem would be one of the best traverses on the mountain. Anyway, here's the beta ... Although it’s possible to start all the way down near the northeast corner, the normal start is about 10 feet right of here at the left-most obvious "red" hold (a), avoiding some cool introductory possibilities. The crux comes just past the meddling tree before the problem finishes up #11. In 2006, Ted Lanzano did this problem from a low left sds (b) that traverses into the problem staying very low until you reach the red hold and the start for #12a. Variation #1 - Full Nook's Traverse V10: A few years ago, Stevie Damboise tacked an introductory sequence onto the front end of the regular traverse as well as a difficult exit sequence onto the back end. Find the "goblet hold" down near the Northeast corner and do 5 or 6 moves into #12a. Now do #12a, but from the deep pocket at the base of #11, rest/regroup then continue around the corner (staying low) and finish across #8 and up #4. Essentially a V5/6 tacked onto a V8 followed by a bit of a rest and another V8 and a long VB traverse and a VB up problem. LOTS of climbing and lots of places to make mistakes. Enjoy!
13. Northeast Corner V2 ... FA: Unknown
At the rounded northeast corner, ascend small protruding pebbles to gain the slab and move up to positive edges and a stance 15 feet up. Most people downclimb problems #13-23 to a point where they can safely jump to a pad.
At the rounded northeast corner, ascend small protruding pebbles to gain the slab and move up to positive edges and a stance 15 feet up. Most people downclimb problems #13-23 to a point where they can safely jump to a pad.
14. Ashes to Ashes V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2006
Begin via a sds using a LH undercling and a good RH sidepull, do a hard move, reach up to #13's starting holds and finish up #13.
15. Nipple Shredder V6 ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2006
Contrived and painful, but a laugher. Begin low on matched underclings, grovel your second foot on and slide left without using the good pebbles on #13 to obvious but poor holds. From here, battle up onto the slab all the while mindful of disengaging feet and the damage you are about to do to your torso and forearms. Long pants and sleeves made of durable materials are recommended.
Contrived and painful, but a laugher. Begin low on matched underclings, grovel your second foot on and slide left without using the good pebbles on #13 to obvious but poor holds. From here, battle up onto the slab all the while mindful of disengaging feet and the damage you are about to do to your torso and forearms. Long pants and sleeves made of durable materials are recommended.
16. Project
Start with #14, move up and slide left into #15, avoiding the good pebbles that you start with on #13.
17 . Northeast Undercut Far Right V3/4 ... FA: Unknown
From subtle and inobvious holds just above the lip 5 feet left of Nipple Shredder, get a foot on, go hard with your RH to a good pinch edge and grovel over.
From subtle and inobvious holds just above the lip 5 feet left of Nipple Shredder, get a foot on, go hard with your RH to a good pinch edge and grovel over.
18. Northeast Undercut Right V3 ... FA: Unknown
Start in the same place as #17 with both hands on subtle imperfections just above the lip (although your exact hand placement may be slightly different). Get a foot on, bump left for a good incut crimp, match and pull over.
19. Northeast Undercut Left V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, late 1960’s
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, slide up and right to a good edge and mantel or go hard up and right and grovel over.
19. Northeast Undercut Left V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, late 1960’s
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, slide up and right to a good edge and mantel or go hard up and right and grovel over.
20. Northeast Undercut Far Left 2/3... FA: Unknown
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, go hard to an incut LH crimp and pull over with style.
21. Don't Touch the Glass V8 ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2006
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, go hard to an incut LH crimp and pull over with style.
21. Don't Touch the Glass V8 ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2006
Have this rig wired if you intend to start working Window Shopper. From 2 obvious but poor holds at head-height below the start for #19 and #20, pull on (difficult in and of itself) and go for the lip (crux). There are lots of candidate holds to choose from at the lip, but they are difficult to catch and hold. Hold the swing, match, then topout via #20. Variation #1 - Glass Plus V10: Another Peter Beal variation. Begins just right of #21, essentially switching starting holds for your LH onto the RH starting hold for #21 and getting your RH onto an even more miserable hold. Get your foot onto the cobble and go the lip and top out per #21.
22. Window Shopper V11 sds ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2006
One of the hardest up-problems on the mountain. I've split the difference between the 2 grades Will gave me and would appreciate input from others. Jamie Emerson managed it from two moves in and thought V10. Begin from a sds down and left from #21 on the lowest LH and RH opposing sidepulls. Bump up each hand to the higher opposing sidepulls, then slide right into and up #21.
23. Window Dressing V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2006
While standing in front of the starting holds for #22, jump hard to a small impossible-to-see hold with your RH, establish on the lip, surf left to topout on good incuts.
While standing in front of the starting holds for #22, jump hard to a small impossible-to-see hold with your RH, establish on the lip, surf left to topout on good incuts.
24. The 30th Birthday Roof Traverse V6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1994
Start matched on an undercling below the roof with #24 and pull directly out the roof. From crimpers on the right side of the prow, use good feet to continue right 15 more feet to a tame finish. It is possible to bag a quick rest under the roof while traversing, so get creative.
Start matched on an undercling below the roof with #24 and pull directly out the roof. From crimpers on the right side of the prow, use good feet to continue right 15 more feet to a tame finish. It is possible to bag a quick rest under the roof while traversing, so get creative.
25. The 30th Birthday Roof V6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1994
Start matched on an undercling below the roof with #24 and pull directly out the roof. Once established on crimpers on the right side of the prow, head for the top just right of the prow. Kind of short, but super-classic!
Start matched on an undercling below the roof with #24 and pull directly out the roof. Once established on crimpers on the right side of the prow, head for the top just right of the prow. Kind of short, but super-classic!
11 comments:
Can't wait for the Nook's guide Chipper!
There you go Theodore!!!
I talked with Steve D about the N face traverse and he said he did the whole thing a while ago, giving it V10. I did DTTG second go the other day and thought it pretty soft for V8, definitely not V9. It looks like there is another problem/project using the RH pebble on DTTG for the left and a bad pebble cluster for the RH,and hitting the lip. Seems much harder.
By the whole thing, do you mean he rounded the corner? If so, that's rad!!!
yeah, Andy Mankowitz repeated DTTG and thought it was V7/8 too. I will adjust. I'm sure the cooler temps are helping as I was unfortunately trying it in the dead of summer. The V9 grade is not Will's fault, he said it was maybe V5 - ha! As usual the truth is usually somewhere in the middle.
I worked a little on the leftmost start to the north face traverse and it felt like a V5/6 tacked on to a V8. The logical start would be from the "goblet" a nice deep hueco that often holds water. 4 or 5 testy moves lead to the "red hold". The continuation around the arete felt pretty hard but that could be because it started raining. V10 for the whole combination seems reasonable
I completed the full traverse yesterday and it seems like V10 makes sense.
peter -
what is the obvious thing to do after you round the corner after doing the full traverse? finish up the sloper up problem on the left or continue across the face to the end and then up?
help!
Hi Chip,
The project just right of DTTG was done by me, called Glass Plus, soft V10. It still has to be done from one move lower, likely V11
I showed PB the problem Glass Plus (which had been done). There is also a problem #26 that starts on the same holds but moves left after coming out from the mini-roof. I won't claim names or grades, as I'm sure it was done prior to me in 2005.
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