Start 8 feet right of Butt Slammer at the bottom of an arête. Trend left up the arête with your RH, utilizing sidepulling crimps down on the face with your LH for tension and heel-hooking most of the way into the topout holds for Butt Slammer.
Right of The Scoop down in a hole, climb out the impressive south-facing overhang. To start, use a good LH flake and high RH crimp. Originally B1+, an important hold broke soon after the first ascent. Lots of other flakes and edges up high, some of which were reinforced with glue at some point, have recently snapped off as well. However, plenty of holds remain and this one definitely goes, it's just a question of "when" and "by whom?" Bringing lots of pads and a couple spotters would be wise as the landing is primarily onto a 35 degree slab until the very top.
Traverse left to right across the west-facing slab from the base of #7, finishing up #4 or #3.
9. Nook's Slab Far Left VB ... FA: Unknown
On the far left of the slab, ascend good edges and slopers up to an easy finish on big slopers 20+ feet up.
Ascend the bulging face right of #11 on the right side of the north face. Utilize mostly pebbles and probably a dynamic move to achieve a ledge, slide right then head up to finish.
From the deep pocket, ascend the shallow dihedral to a ledge 15 feet up. Slide right then up to finish.
This problem, previously named the Southside Traverse in Benningfield's guide was reported to be V5. Maybe something has broken, but what I do know is that this problem actually traverses the north face from left to right. The rock is impeccable and if it wasn't a rising traverse on an aggressively sloping hillside with a meddling tree in the middle, this problem would be one of the best traverses on the mountain. Anyway, here's the beta ... Although it’s possible to start all the way down near the northeast corner, the normal start is about 10 feet right of here at the left-most obvious "red" hold (a), avoiding some cool introductory possibilities. The crux comes just past the meddling tree before the problem finishes up #11. In 2006, Ted Lanzano did this problem from a low left sds (b) that traverses into the problem staying very low until you reach the red hold and the start for #12a. Variation #1 - Full Nook's Traverse V10: A few years ago, Stevie Damboise tacked an introductory sequence onto the front end of the regular traverse as well as adding a difficult exit sequence onto the back end. Find the "goblet hold" down near the Northeast corner and do 5 or 6 moves up to the start for #12a. Now do #12a, but from the deep pocket at the base of #11, rest/regroup then continue around the corner (staying low ~V8) and then finish with any of the VB problems on the slab. Essentially, V10 = V5/6 + V8 + an OK rest + V8 + VB slab problem. LOTS of climbing and lots of places to make mistakes. Enjoy!
At the rounded northeast corner, ascend small protruding pebbles to gain the slab and move up to positive edges and a stance 15 feet up. Most people downclimb problems #13-23 to a point where they can safely jump to a pad.
An obvious lip traverse that starts with #14, but traverses left all the way across the lip to a nice topout with #s 21-24. Start with #14, slide left into the first few holds of #16, attain the lip and begin the battle across poor lip features. Possibly double digits.
Contrived and painful, but a laugher. Begin low on matched underclings, grovel your second foot on and slide left without using the good pebbles on #13 to obvious but very poor holds. From here, battle up onto the slab using an obvious right foot, all the while mindful of disengaging feet and the damage you are about to do to your torso and forearms. Long pants and sleeves made of durable materials are recommended.
From subtle and inobvious holds just above the lip 5 feet left of Nipple Shredder, get a foot on, go hard with your RH to a good edge useful as a pinch and grovel over.
An obvious line that has been thoroughly cleaned and tried quite a bit lately, based on the look of things up there in early 2010. Begin from a sds on obvious edges down low. Not sure where this one will end up topping out, but finishing up #17 or #18 makes the most sense if someone can bridge the gap between the starting holds and the lip. Double digits are likely.
20. Northeast Undercut Left V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, late 1960’s
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, pull on and slide up and right to an edge. Mantel or go hard up and right to a crimp, pulling over about where #18 tops out.
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, go to a perfect incut LH crimp and pull over with style.
24. Window Shopper V12? sds ... FA: Will Lemaire, 2006 *
25. Window Dressing V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2006
While standing in front of the starting holds for #24 and #26, jump really hard to a hard-to-see sloper 10 feet up with your RH, hold the twist, establish on the lip and surf left to a topout on the slab on incut crimps.
26. Shopping For Dressing V9 ... FA: Eric Harrison, 2009 *
30TH BIRTHDAY ROOF
27. Jimmy, Stop Putting Erl Down the Terlet V6/7 ... FA: Ben Collett, 2008
Find the undercling on the right, close to the end of #29. Pull on here and traverse left about 8-10 feet to the final crimps before the prow and topout #30.
28. Just Slightly Different V9 ... FA: Ben Collett, 2009 *
Begin on the far right at the undercling with #27. Again, traverse left, but continue around the prow and ascend #31 without the benefit of the prow arête. It is tricky and core-intensive to get your feet around the corner to topout #31.
29. The 30th Birthday Roof Traverse V5/6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1994
Start matched on an undercling below the roof and pull directly out the roof to the prow arête. Slide right across crimpers on the right side of the prow, then use good feet and a combination of grips on and under the lip to continue right 10 more feet to a tame finish on the very far right of the boulder.
Start matched on an undercling below the roof with #29 and pull directly out the roof to the prow arête and the crimps just slightly to the right of the prow. Once established on these crimpers, top out right there. Kind of short, but a fun battle typically ensues on the topout. Long pants may come in handy during the topout.
31. Backrub V6-8? ... FA: Peter Jones, 2005/6 *
Begin matched on the same undercling with #29 and #30, but pull out to a selection of sloping crimps left of the prow. Without using the prow arête, go the the top on small sloping edges. Different sequences exist and grades between V5 and V10 have been reported, with the truth residing somewhere in between these extremes. Time will clarify the grade as beta is refined and the easiest sequence becomes known and used. If you have an opinion, weigh in. Votes so far with varying beta include
32. And Now For Something Completely Different V6 ... FA: Ben Collett, 2009 *
Start matched on the undercling with #29-31 and do this fun variation to #31 on the left side of the prow that allows you to use the prow arête on your way to the top.