The author expressly disclaims any and all warranties, express and implied, that any information contained herein is accurate. There are no warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. This guide should never be considered a substitute for professional instruction or years of experience making smart climbing decisions. Your use of the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide indicates that you are: (1) assuming the risk that errors exist in this guide; and (2) acknowledging that your safety while climbing and bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain and elsewhere is solely your responsibility.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Pumpkin Rock Miniguide

Pumpkin Rock is one of Flagstaff Mountains' largest boulders located in arguably one of its nicest settings. Although there are not a ton of established problems, potential remains for a couple more bold lines. Enjoy the colors and the view. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park at Panorama Point, which is 0.5 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Head up the trail through the meadow opposite the parking lot and Pumpkin Rock will be the first large formation uphill on the right. Do not cut uphill to Pumpkin Rock here (on social trails or blazing your own) in spite of evidence that others have. Stay on the main trail for about 100 more yards, passing the next boulder (Panorama Rock) on your right. After the next short switchback, you will find yourself with a nice view to the east, obstructed only by the immense west side of Pumpkin Rock.
1. Northeast Notch V1 sds ... FA: Unknown *
Around the corner to the left from #s 2-3, begin from a sds down low in the crack and climb the crack and face up onto the ramp.
2. Northwest Pin Scars V5/6ish / V5/6 X ... FA: Unknown
Start with #3, but after a couple moves veer directly left into the pin scars which arch left then up. At the arching seam about 17 feet up, either slide right and downclimb/jump to your pads OR slide left and continue up the line of least resistance with the last serious move at about 35 feet. The anchors up top allow you to easily rehearse the topout sequence before committing to the insecure V2ish sequence just before the top.
3. Northwest Face V1 (a) / V2 (b) / V2/3 X (topout) ... FA: Unknown *
On the northwest face, follow a series of holds as they diagonal up and right to a well-chalked rail 12 feet up (a) or start directly below the well-chalked rail and climb straight up to it via a long swing (b). From the rail, reach straight up and match a sloping shelf under the arching seam, then slide left to another set of good holds. Now, either reverse your moves back to the safety of the pads, or slide left a couple feet and head straight out the committing and sequential V2ish finish that's not over until you pull over the lip at 35+ feet.
4. West Face Left V3 X ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968 *
Begin on a ledge where the remnants of a red spray-painted peace symbol persist. Start up the beautiful tufa-like fin and veer left to a committing, but relatively easy, topout on incut edges and jugs. Regardless how many pads you have, it will be difficult to protect against injury if you fall anywhere near the top on this one.
5. The Yellow Hammer V6 ... FA: Lee Payne, 2006 *
Start up the fin on #4, but stay the course heading straight for the top above a landing that essentially requires that you do not fall.
6. West Face Right V2/3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968 *
Four feet right of #4, find a good starting edge near another unidentifiable red spray-painted symbol. From there, ascend the face straight to the top, with a number of pulls on nice crimps. This one is easier to protect than the last one, but you need a few pads to get it right and you cannot fall wildly or unexpectedly near the top without expecting to get hurt.
7. The Velvet Cushion V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007
Begin from a sds on decent holds (one is a pocket) directly below the start for #6 and climb up into it.
8. Pumpkin Bulge V0 ... FA: Unknown
Reach edges from atop a step and do a couple of moves on good holds to surmount this short bulge up onto the ledge.
9. Pumpkin Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown
Ascend the funky overhanging dihedral to the top using mostly good holds once you get started.
10. Pumpkin Roof V2 ... FA: Unknown *
From a sds using a deep sideways pocket down under the roof, climb out the steep west-facing overhang just left of the ramp leading to #11 and topout.
11. Top Notch V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
This is up on the second tier of Pumpkin Rock above the cave. Start low and pull out the south-facing overhanging notch onto the top slab. Be careful up there.
12. Smashing Pumpkins V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2003
Start on the left side of the arête just left of #13, almost in the shallow cave. Head up and left on occasionally dubious rock that will bring you to an obvious stopping point on a rail. I always wanted to pull the roof out of the cave, but never spent enough time sorting that out and the 45 degree angle slab below always scared the crap out of me. Have at it!!!
13. Funky Undercling V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000 *
A few feet left of #14 with the cave just to your left, ascend funky holds up to the topout ledge. The key for me was using a very cool slopey LH undercling to reach high and right for an edge and the top, but find your own sequence that works. In any event, this is a NICE problem.
14. South Face Pockets V1 ... FA: Unknown *
Five feet left of the short arête, climb this nice face where 3 small fingertip pockets precede a topout on a ledge.

15. Southeast Corner V2 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds on the east side of the southeast arête, do 4 or 5 thrutchy moves up onto the low-angled ramp. Much harder than - but just as crappy as - it looks.


Adam said...

Just wanted to say thanks for doing this. I realize how much time, work, and effort you must be putting in. CHEERS!

chuffer said...

Thanks a lot!!!