The Alcove is the moniker for the corridor splitting the middle of The Cloud Shadow complex of rock. On the south side is the Cloud Shadow Wall and on the north side is Cloud Shadow's Other Side. There are a number of good problems of various styles and difficulties here, although the fun that can be had may not be all that obvious on first glance. Look again, unless you are solely motivated by really hard problems. Where: The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach The Alcove is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast toward Cloud Shadow Wall. As you approach the western edge of the wall, turn left and head slightly uphill for 15 yards. The problems start here and extend down both sides of the corridor.NORTH SIDE
1. Name Pending V2/3 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008
Start on the obvious holds on the southeast corner and WITHOUT using the low shelf for feet, traverse left across the roof/overhang until you can topout on the far left.
2. South Mantel V1 ... FA: Unknown
Start at the southeast corner, slide left a tad and maybe use a chossy intermediate or two to get your feet up, grab the top jug and pull over.
3. The Alcove Dyno V7 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2003
A one-move wonder, but a pretty good one. Start with #1 and #2 on obvious handholds on the southeast corner with marginal feet. From there, throw 5+ feet up to the high corner and pull over. Much harder and more subtle than it looks on first glance.
A one-move wonder, but a pretty good one. Start with #1 and #2 on obvious handholds on the southeast corner with marginal feet. From there, throw 5+ feet up to the high corner and pull over. Much harder and more subtle than it looks on first glance.
4. East Overhang Traverse V3 ... FA: Unknown
Begin at the obvious holds on the corner with #s 1-3 and traverse a few feet right to join #7 for the topout.
Begin at the obvious holds on the corner with #s 1-3 and traverse a few feet right to join #7 for the topout.
5. New Beginnings V9 ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2008
Begin at the obvious holds on the corner with #s 1-4, and traverse right, staying low which will bring you to the starting hold for #8. Now climb #8.
6. East Overhang Left V4 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a sds on a large sidepull up under the east face. Move up into the undercling and then out the short overhang just left of the prominent crack. The crack is on and useful for the RH, but everything right of it is not.
7. East Overhang Crack V2/3 (a) / V3/4 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown
Begin with a LH undercling and RH in/near the crack splitting the face (a) or begin from a sds on a large and low sidepull with #6 that precedes the good undercling (b). Either way, the topout is a little devious until you've got it wired.
8. Curmudgeon V7/8 sds ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1983
Begin from a sds four feet right of #7 under the roof, this time on a right-facing sidepull jug. Climb straight out the short overhang on the amazingly perfect crimps with very cool moves. All feet are on, but the the vertical crack and the handholds associated with it are off-route. There are a couple tricks for this one that make it a bit easier than folks once thought, including a LH bump move to a better crimp, a dangerous but bomber heel-toe lock and a possible kneebar scum. Safety-wise, there is a horn up in a small dihedral on the slab behind the climber that easily allows you to hang a pad on the slab and protect the climber's back. Variation #1 - True Curmudgeon ~V8/9 sds: CG's original sequence unintentionally avoided a useful hold, the higher incut LH edge that you can bump to just below the lip. Off-routing this forces the climber to make a longer and more difficult RH move off the small and slick LH crimp. There is no consensus on the grade, so be prepared for something between V8 and V10.
9. Sailor’s Delight V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
High up above the middle of the corridor, after ascending a slab is an imposing roof. Pull out the roof to jugs at the lip and roll over. It’s difficult and unwise to backtrack once you commit to the lip so finish with confidence on the jugs.
10. Jagged Little Thrill V1 ... FA: Unknown
6. East Overhang Left V4 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a sds on a large sidepull up under the east face. Move up into the undercling and then out the short overhang just left of the prominent crack. The crack is on and useful for the RH, but everything right of it is not.
7. East Overhang Crack V2/3 (a) / V3/4 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown
Begin with a LH undercling and RH in/near the crack splitting the face (a) or begin from a sds on a large and low sidepull with #6 that precedes the good undercling (b). Either way, the topout is a little devious until you've got it wired.
8. Curmudgeon V7/8 sds ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1983
Begin from a sds four feet right of #7 under the roof, this time on a right-facing sidepull jug. Climb straight out the short overhang on the amazingly perfect crimps with very cool moves. All feet are on, but the the vertical crack and the handholds associated with it are off-route. There are a couple tricks for this one that make it a bit easier than folks once thought, including a LH bump move to a better crimp, a dangerous but bomber heel-toe lock and a possible kneebar scum. Safety-wise, there is a horn up in a small dihedral on the slab behind the climber that easily allows you to hang a pad on the slab and protect the climber's back. Variation #1 - True Curmudgeon ~V8/9 sds: CG's original sequence unintentionally avoided a useful hold, the higher incut LH edge that you can bump to just below the lip. Off-routing this forces the climber to make a longer and more difficult RH move off the small and slick LH crimp. There is no consensus on the grade, so be prepared for something between V8 and V10.
9. Sailor’s Delight V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
High up above the middle of the corridor, after ascending a slab is an imposing roof. Pull out the roof to jugs at the lip and roll over. It’s difficult and unwise to backtrack once you commit to the lip so finish with confidence on the jugs.
10. Jagged Little Thrill V1 ... FA: Unknown
Down and right from #9 but still on the north side of The Alcove, hand-traverse up and left on jugs that start down low on the far right. Trend up and left to the top of the perched boulder and pull over.
SOUTH SIDE
11. North Slot V0 ... FA: Unknown
From a low start, climb the wide and somewhat chossy slot to the top.
12. Crack Allegro V1/2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Right of #11, start on holds above your head next to the right-arching and sloping seam and work your way up to the top.
13. Allegro Bulge V2 sds / V4/5 sds ... FA: Unknown
11. North Slot V0 ... FA: Unknown
From a low start, climb the wide and somewhat chossy slot to the top.
12. Crack Allegro V1/2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Right of #11, start on holds above your head next to the right-arching and sloping seam and work your way up to the top.
13. Allegro Bulge V2 sds / V4/5 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds right of #12, climb perfect edges out the bulge to a possible mantel finish. The V2 version uses ALL the feet. The V4/5 version off-routes the big foot shelf out right and makes use of an incredible LF heel-toe cam to start.
14. Allegro Traverse V4 ... FA: Unknown
Start on good holds several feet right of #13 and traverse left on obvious holds - staying low across the Allegro problems - to a finish up #11.
15. Alcove Traverse V7 ... FA: Willie Mein, mid 1990's
Start as per #14, but continue 10 more feet left around a bulging arête to finish on a slab just right of a wide slot. Grungy and way too much lichen for my taste once you round the corner, but maybe it will clean up with some traffic.
14. Allegro Traverse V4 ... FA: Unknown
Start on good holds several feet right of #13 and traverse left on obvious holds - staying low across the Allegro problems - to a finish up #11.
15. Alcove Traverse V7 ... FA: Willie Mein, mid 1990's
Start as per #14, but continue 10 more feet left around a bulging arête to finish on a slab just right of a wide slot. Grungy and way too much lichen for my taste once you round the corner, but maybe it will clean up with some traffic.
13 comments:
Chip are you sure about the grade and FA dateon Curmudgeon? I'm pretty sure CG graded it V10 and named it after his cat(It's a long story). Also the SD on the Allegro Bulge is not V2 based on my experience. I thought it was harder than Hagans though maybe we have different starts in mind.
About Curmudgeon, the first time I was introduced to the problem I was told he graded it V11. The year 1983 was given to me by CG himself. I believe he may have named the problem years (or decades) after the FA. It doesn't matter what it was originally graded, this guide attempts to reflect current thinking on grades. JJ thinks it might be V7, but time will tell as more people try it and give their opinion. I'm psyched to spend some time on it, if you wanna jump on it one of these mornings ...
Onto the Allegro Bulge ... which is a nice little problem I haven't done since ~2000/2001. I do remember there being something funky about the starts to both that problem and Crack Allegro. I will revisit it and adjust my description as necessary, as there may be some subtleties about the starts that I've forgotten.
I may go out early tomorrow morning. I have a project not too far away.
I will be there. I'll look for you.
I'll plan on being there by 6:30. I have to be in Fort Collins at 9 am so it will be a quick session.
Sorry I missed you Chip. Things were too warm and humid anyway. Re Allegro Bulge, I think the reason I found it hard is that I off-routed the ramp on the right, which is probably V5. I still have serious doubts about Curmudgeon at V8 but I'll be interested to see what SH might say.
^ exactly. Repeated today and concur.
Re: Curmudgeon/New Beginnings, it may be helpful to state what's on or off or even give specific beta. I wonder if the original V10/11 referred to a sequence that stayed off the good edge just right of the crack. That's what I always assumed was the case.
I'm assuming you're talking about the higher LH edge just shy of the top that you CAN bump to off the smaller lower slipperier LH edge. good idea Peter, I'll try to work that beta regarding the original sequence into the description for Curmudgeon, as I know some folks have done it without that hold and it is a bit harder.
Thanks Chip. I would bet that it's quite a bit harder off-routing the hold I described, like at least V10.
i had done the curmudgeon V8 in the past going straight up and right off the sloping rail. i believed it wasn't necessary to use the LH, seeing as how the line in the guide book off-routed it which i agreed with. the problem went my second go after falling short of the lip on the flash attempt. i believe that this problem will never be harder than v8, and using the LH hold close to the crack would certainly make it a bit easier, prob more like V7. Idk where the double digit grade came into question... hope this helps clear up some controversy
Peter & Alex -
To clarify, the LH crimp in question on Curmudgeon is not really any closer to the crack than the slick crimp, it's essentially right above it. I honestly don't know how hard it is without this hold as I was unable to pull True Curmudgeon down in my time on Flagstaff, it's definitely harder than V7 or V7/8 ... I know that.
I was originally told V11 for True Curmudgeon. sock hands suggested 8 or so a few years back. Alex has now done the same. Paul called it V10 ON HIS CARD. Peter seems to think the truth is somewhere in that neighborhood, but I don't think he's repeated it. I'll encourage him to do so and update the grade as I get more feedback from others.
In the end, I really don't care and I'm certainly open to suggestions.
I'll end with this. The good crimp takes nothing away from this cool line, it just makes it a tad easier. True Curmudgeon is an eliminate. I'll adjust its grade to V8/9 and wait for more repeats going forward.
Cool?
chuffer
I did Curmudgeon both ways today. going again to the higher L hand, I completely skipped the high right by switching the R to a different undercling, then going L up again to the top. ~V7
From the start, L to the first crimp (amazing R foot cam) and R to the high right crimp. releasing the foot felt like the crux. ~V8 with tall mans discount
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