tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61311833389042522322024-02-18T20:33:30.277-08:00Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering GuideFlagstaff Mountain conveniently sits just west of Boulder Colorado on land owned and managed by the city. When I moved to Colorado in 1999, I began documenting, repeating and researching the history of all of Flagstaff Mountain's boulder problems. Although 325 problems had been described in a variety of guidebooks over the previous 30 years, in 2007 I began providing information here for what will eventually become a guide to 1,000 boulder problems on Flagstaff Mountain. Enjoy!chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.comBlogger38125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-90823884009308493262010-04-20T23:03:00.000-07:002010-04-25T02:08:02.249-07:00Using This Blog-Guide<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><em>The Basics:</em></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;">This blog-guide has a new format. The front page, which you are now viewing, is for general information only. To view individual miniguides, click on the <span style="color: #666666; font-size: x-small;"><strong>QUICKLINKS TO FLAGSTAFF MOUNTAIN MINIGUIDES</strong></span> on the right to access photos and guides to different areas of the mountain OR use the <strong><span style="color: blue;">G</span><span style="color: red;">o</span><span style="color: yellow;">o</span><span style="color: blue;">g</span><span style="color: lime;">l</span><span style="color: red;">e</span></strong> search tool on the right to search for boulders or problems within the miniguides. If you are unfamiliar with Flagstaff Mountain, each miniguide contains explicit and independent directions to the area and photos showing the lines for the each problem. Approximately 750 problems and variations are currently described in 37 Miniguides, although a few are still under construction or revision. In the not too distant future, there will be 1,000 problems and variations in approximately 45 Miniguides. Quality ratings have been added to the miniguides to help visiting climbers with limited time select the very best problems (see the explanation of quality ratings below). This blog-guide is a work in progress, so comments, corrections and suggestions are always welcome. See you out there!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><em>Warning:</em></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Rock climbing, including bouldering, is inherently dangerous. Do not participate unless you are willing to personally assume all of the risks that climbing presents, including the risk that you will suffer serious injury or death. Falling is common in bouldering and every fall is a ground fall. Climbers risk injuring themselves and/or their spotters during each attempt. Landing on uneven ground and/or rocky terrain is a particular hazard every climber should assess before attempting any problem. Do your best to minimize your risks (see the safety section), but some hazards including loose rock, broken holds and long and/or awkward falls present risks that are often difficult to prepare for and predict.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><em>Safety:</em></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">To minimize the risk of injury, warm up on easier problems and use spotters and crashpads when bouldering. Climb with attentive and enthusiastic spotters familiar with proper spotting techniques. Consult with other climbers about the difficulty and dangers presented by problems with which you are unfamiliar and always use common sense. If you feel unsafe on a particular problem, come back some other day under better conditions, when you have better beta about the top-out or when you have stronger fingers or better endurance. Other options include bringing several spotters and a dozen crashpads or setting up a toprope. You can even choose not to come back to a particular problem or not to come back to Flagstaff Mountain at all. One beauty of climbing is that we get to make our own choices, but we must also personally accept responsibility for the risks we take and consequences we suffer.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><em>Ethics:</em></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">All of Flagstaff Mountain's boulder problems are located on land managed by the City of Boulder's Open Space & Mountain Parks. The majority of the problems are located on land that has been classified as a Recreation Area in the OSMP Master Plan, which means that off-trail travel, while not encouraged, is permitted. The majority of the problems on Flagstaff Mountain are located off-trail or on social trails which are not considered officially designated trails. We should all make efforts to practice Leave No Trace, using hard erosion-resistant surfaces and rock-hopping techniques to access the boulders when feasible. Minimize your footprint by staying on established social trails when possible, taking care of the fauna, brushing off excess chalk and tickmarks that other user groups do not enjoy and cleaning up after other user groups which are largely responsible for the trash we clean up on the mountain during the annual Trash Bash. If you encounter a ranger or other user groups that we share the mountain with, always be friendly and respectful. Remember to leave the glass bottles at home, as glass is prohibited on Flagstaff Mountain. With respect to the boulders themselves, do not chip, enhance or otherwise manipulate the rock to bring a problem down to your level. After it rains, consider climbing elsewhere, as the Fountain sandstone found on Flagstaff Mountain is particularly susceptible to weakening by moisture. Most importantly, have fun!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><em><span style="color: yellow;">A Very Brief History:</span></em></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Climbers have been exploring the exposed Fountain sandstone boulders, walls and outcroppings on the southeast flank of Flagstaff Mountain since the 1940’s. Although there are a handful of popular routes that are regularly top-roped, Flagstaff is an immense bouldering resource with a rich history. Climbers passing through Boulder would be foolish not to venture up Flagstaff Road to try legendary time-tested moderates and testpieces put up and repeated by many of our heroes in decades gone by. Those interested in learning more about the mountain’s history will be enlightened, inspired and entertained by the section on Flagstaff in John Sherman’s “Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America.” Guidebooks with sections on Flagstaff also touch on its history, particularly Pat Ament’s "Flagstaff Mountain: A Climber's Playground," any of Ament's 5 editions of “High Over Boulder” and Phillip Benningfield’s Colorado Bouldering.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><em>Getting There:</em></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">To reach the bouldering, drive or bike west up Baseline Road from its intersection with Broadway (AKA Highway 93) in Boulder. After 1.4 miles, just after passing over the Armstrong Bridge and passing Gregory Canyon on your left, Baseline Road makes a sweeping right hand turn and becomes Flagstaff Road. All of the boulders on Flagstaff Mountain are easily accessible from the road over the next 2.1 miles. Although the distances are reiterated in the each of the miniguides, here are some distances from the Armstrong Bridge and Gregory Canyon Road intersection to the major parking areas:</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Panorama Point Parking Area ................................... 0.5 miles</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Capstan Pullout ................................................... 1.2 miles</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Crown Rock Parking Area ........................................ 1.6 miles</div><div style="text-align: justify;">First Overhang Parking Area ….................................. 2.1 miles</div><div style="text-align: justify;">When it comes to parking, use common sense. A number of additional, but small, parking areas are present, but if a sign indicates you should not park somewhere, DON'T! If you are riding a bike, be aware that no trail riding is allowed on Flagstaff Mountain. Visitors who are unfamiliar with the mountain can use the individual miniguides to coordinate their parking and approach with the areas they wish to visit. One may also reach the boulders by doing a 30 minute hike or trail-run up either of two trails that ascend the mountain from Gregory Canyon Road.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><em>Names and Descriptions:</em></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Historical area names, boulder names and problem names and descriptions have been used when available. Conflicts between prior problem descriptions and the real world were resolved using common sense. Among the listed problems are well over 600 previously-undocumented problems and variations. Some of these newly documented problems were undoubtedly bouldered out by various honemasters back in the 60’s, 70’s or 80’s and have merely been rediscovered and documented for the first time. The author recognizes that people have been bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain for 50+ years and has been conservative about first ascent claims by myself and others. In an effort to avoid ambiguity and obscurity, I have named walls, boulders and problems that I was unable to procure any information about. Sometimes I used descriptive names and other times I used nicknames people shared with me about areas and problems. As a general rule, I have omitted no-hands, one-handed and “circus trick” problems, although I have included a few of the more historical ones. Let me know if I've missed something obvious and good.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><em><span style="color: yellow;">Difficulty Ratings:</span></em></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ratings are opinions, not facts, so please take them with a grain of salt and never get offended by them or defensive about them. Use the grades in this and other guides as a reference when deciding what problems to try. Although hundreds of Flagstaff Mountain’s problems were originally rated using the old B System, this blog-guide employs the Vermin or V System exclusively. Grades in this blog-guide currently range from VB to V13. A number of double-digit projects and problems that have broken remain for future ascents and grading. Previous guidebooks made efforts at converting the B System ratings to the V System and, as a general rule, historical ratings (e.g., their V System conversions) have been respected. However, dozens of problems have been re-rated (some up and some down) in an effort to account for weathering, broken holds, missing pebbles, poor B System to V System conversions or to adjust ratings that had little basis in reality. That said, difficulty ratings on Flagstaff Mountain have always been solid and it is the author's hope that all problems are still solidly but fairly graded. Note that on hot sunny days, many - if not most - of the problems will seem much harder than the rating suggests. If you keep an 8a scorecard or logbook, rate the problems how they felt to you, so the community can keep grades moving towards a consensus, as I do monitor the opinions of others.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><em>Quality Ratings</em></span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Assessing a boulder problem’s quality is even more subjective than assessing its difficulty. Nevertheless, I have tried to do just that based on my experience climbing almost 900 problems on the mountain and the praise and/or condemnation of others. Each problem is given either one star or none. That said, a zero star problem in this guide can be quite nice and worth doing. The best 100 problems will be highlighted in <span style="color: #b45f06;">ORANGE</span> rather than <span style="color: yellow;">YELLOW</span>. For your reference, the author’s conception of a perfect boulder problem is an aesthetic line in an idyllic setting with an obvious start and finish and no rules in between. This hypothetical problem possesses clean solid rock with a user-friendly texture, provides dramatic position and exposure and requires a variety of interesting moves of consistent or increasing difficulty all above a landing area that presents a low risk of serious injury if proper safety precautions are followed. No problems on Flagstaff Mountain possess all those qualities and you are reminded that zero star problems in this guide can still be worth climbing and good. It is my hope that very few folks will be disappointed by problems receiving a star.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><em>Potential New Problems Pending for Addition to Miniguides</em></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;">NOOK'S ROCK & 30TH BIRTHDAY ROOF</span><br />
Botslayer V10 - 2010 (GS)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;">DOWN THE MOUNTAIN CLIFFS</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Flipper V4 - 2010 (PJ)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Slot View V6 - 2010 (PJ)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Unnamed V? - 2010 (PJ)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;">FIRST OVERHANG RIDGE</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The Departed V9 sds - 2009 (SA)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Face With No Hands V5 - 2006 (PJ)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">West End Traverse V9 - 2009 (PB)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">There Will Be Blood V10/11 sds - 2009 (PB)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Face With No Name Traverse V7 sds - 2009 (BC)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dungeon Master V7 sds - 2009 (EH)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dungeon & Dragons V8 sds - 2009 (AM)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Reluctant Dragon V5 sds - 2009 (MB)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Rumble in the Chungle V5 sds - 2009 (BC)</div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-28786764045007948672010-04-20T22:50:00.000-07:002010-04-27T22:46:58.498-07:00In-Betweens Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigmHBb4YBqR3zK0K7vZ4a0QXA2UOd0vv-D7XXBmL3piJrGJ0dIFA0YuU9PLyaNfVLOTDgQgCLZQKYHMtum7_Q6xqOBKGeeqEpA_yHN-noa2jMI7UxIecsBVaYwQgPtb3-HWC0pUiPxe9PV/s1600/Frogger-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigmHBb4YBqR3zK0K7vZ4a0QXA2UOd0vv-D7XXBmL3piJrGJ0dIFA0YuU9PLyaNfVLOTDgQgCLZQKYHMtum7_Q6xqOBKGeeqEpA_yHN-noa2jMI7UxIecsBVaYwQgPtb3-HWC0pUiPxe9PV/s400/Frogger-FINAL.JPG" width="300" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifn0zK_rkadfKdHzx7p3zJkt7heozJ0xANcxr6e-ERKy2zczK6iLa5OuYYOJ2aVgxgnGO2Yt9Di9kMNGhqDGbPMju6ljNz-dJY_j4i03-xx51p7G0PUGcxre2cQZui5qBqu4T_LD3VQ46z/s1600/PacManRock&Centipede-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifn0zK_rkadfKdHzx7p3zJkt7heozJ0xANcxr6e-ERKy2zczK6iLa5OuYYOJ2aVgxgnGO2Yt9Di9kMNGhqDGbPMju6ljNz-dJY_j4i03-xx51p7G0PUGcxre2cQZui5qBqu4T_LD3VQ46z/s400/PacManRock&Centipede-FINAL.JPG" width="300" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6tqea-3YJYJ1sFoZZL1stYbXNdliKlOLjYR2BF5VvMhqHAyFu6ldwVG-UnQhgWYjVLA9pntTmG8YNfUAzRWSEWz_Uf9OwFd28P09nEf9nkBDbZhM5J2_2Kn9riVen6nGmUnF2YUEaRu1u/s1600/Kaboom-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6tqea-3YJYJ1sFoZZL1stYbXNdliKlOLjYR2BF5VvMhqHAyFu6ldwVG-UnQhgWYjVLA9pntTmG8YNfUAzRWSEWz_Uf9OwFd28P09nEf9nkBDbZhM5J2_2Kn9riVen6nGmUnF2YUEaRu1u/s400/Kaboom-FINAL.JPG" width="300" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAz2Z7lV10DpISJeS9zo1xfqu1tpvIAkjhuu0ddeDN2isrPXMzC0MJtvUkxRUPUXtK0QB0Y-iiDEDDosuc7J_0OCxUuq2j3QM2M2moZUTBj6sue-liQvaQFTSiWMio6hfQPIZVtTJ5sCwM/s1600/Arcade-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAz2Z7lV10DpISJeS9zo1xfqu1tpvIAkjhuu0ddeDN2isrPXMzC0MJtvUkxRUPUXtK0QB0Y-iiDEDDosuc7J_0OCxUuq2j3QM2M2moZUTBj6sue-liQvaQFTSiWMio6hfQPIZVtTJ5sCwM/s400/Arcade-FINAL.JPG" width="300" wt="true" /></a></div>The In-Betweens refers to a short broken spine of rock about 100 yards long between the Crown Rock Ridge and the Alamo Rock Ridge. None of the problems have the best rock quality, but their moderate nature makes them fun as approach-shoe-problems or as warm-ups. Additional contrivances and heady problems on chossy rock could be - and I'm sure have been - devised here, but I've tried to list the most obvious lines. <span style="color: yellow;"><b>Where:</b></span> Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Walk past One-Arm Rocks and Crown Rock, then turn left and follow a nice path away from the masses that trends southeast toward the upper reaches of the Alamo Rock Ridge. The first problem in this miniguide is located right on the trail on the left and will be obvious. From here, head west 20 feet behind a ridge of rock, follow it south and you will find the remainder of the problems, all of which are west-facing and moderate in nature.<br />
<span style="color: red;">FROGGER ROCK</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">1. Frogger V0 sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
From a sds on the trail that leads to Pump Rock and Alamo Rock, yard on the starting holds - springing up to the rounded top, then pull over.<br />
<span style="color: red;">PAC MAN ROCK</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">2. Pac Man VB ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
Start matched on the slopey shelf, make headway using a couple of obvious features, then slap the round and slopey top and mantel it down.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">3. Ms. Pac Man VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Start just right of #2 with your LH on the shelf and your RH using a pocket. Pull on, and again use obvious features to make a couple moves, then slap the round and slopey top and mantel it down.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">4. Pole Position VB ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
About 50 feet right of #2 and #3, start up an obvious arête and ascend incut edges and buckets. Trend slightly right towards the top with lots of air under your feet and pull over. A really fun moderate with great holds, lots of moves and terrific position.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">5. Donkey Kong Junior V0 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Right from #4, after a break in the ridge, ascend the short obvious line to a sketchy finish on suprisingly steep rock if you pull straight over.<br />
<span style="color: red;">THE ARCADE</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">6. Galaga V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2010 *</span><br />
Twenty yards right from #5, a more significant wall may be found. Ascend the left hand side of this wall, straight up to a small roof up at the lip. Make a couple tough moves to start, continue up on jugs, then finish out the high roof on small edges that lead to a topout jug.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">7. Centipede VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
A few feet right of #6, find the line of least resistance straight up the jugs.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">8. Asteroids VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
About 20 feet right of #7, find another moderate that heads up juggy terrain.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">9. Tron V0 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Start 10 feet right of #8 do a couple straight-up moves, then trend up and left up into the finish for #8 .<br />
<span style="color: red;">LARGE RED WALL</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">10. Large Red Wall Face V2 X ... FA: Unknown (not pictured)</span><br />
This wall is actually the same as the Arcade, but they are separated by a low-angle chimney-dihedral. Ascend the slabby wall to the high high bulging face. I'm not sure of the line here.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">11. Large Red Wall Corner VB X ... FA: Unknown (not pictured)</span><br />
Ascend the corner on the right side of the wall.</div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-80186809865626181682010-02-21T02:36:00.000-08:002010-02-21T21:06:27.590-08:00Lower Alamo Rock Ridge Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;">Generally speaking, the Alamo Rock Ridge refers to a broken spine of rock comprised of about 20 spots to drop your pads and try some things if you continue far enough down the ridge. This miniguide will cover the lower "half" of these problems. The boulders and walls of the Alamo Rock Ridge run north-to-south for 500 hundred yards towards Gregory Canyon approximately 100 yards east of the ridge of rock that includes One-Arm Rocks, Crown Rock, Pratt's Rock, The Monkey Traverse, etc. When complete, this miniguide should comprise about 45 problems, about the same number as the miniguide for Upper Alamo Rock Ridge. Alone or in combination with Upper Alamo Rock Ridge and/or the Candel Area, this is a great place for a huge circuit of easier to moderate problems on good stone away from other climbers and user groups. Most of the problems are highball in nature, but most have reasonable or easy topouts. If you have a good head, this an excellent area to log some mileage. <strong><span style="color: yellow;">Where:</span></strong> Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Walk past One-Arm Rocks and Crown Rock, then turn left and follow a nice path that trends southeast to the upper reaches of the Alamo Rock Ridge. Major features that will initially come into view include Pump Rock, The Rib, Alamo Rock, Navajo Rock and the Erasable Boulder. See the miniguide for the Upper Alamo Rock Ridge for the problems in and around these formations. All of the problems covered in this miniguide are located on and around the ridge of rock that continues down the hill towards Gregory Canyon below the Erasable Boulder (which is the rock you pass below when approaching the Candel Area). Read the descriptions and use the photos to identify problems in this area and see the miniguide for the Upper Alamo Rock Ridge for the problems at the top of the hill.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">More to come =)</div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-8833533019016095722010-02-21T02:22:00.000-08:002010-02-21T21:09:29.414-08:00Upper Alamo Rock Ridge Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;">Generally speaking, the Alamo Rock Ridge refers to a broken spine of rock comprised of about 20 spots to drop your pads and try some things if you continue far enough down the ridge. This miniguide will cover the upper "half" of these problems. The boulders and walls of the Alamo Rock Ridge run north-to-south for 500 hundred yards towards Gregory Canyon approximately 100 yards east of the ridge of rock that includes One-Arm Rocks, Crown Rock, Pratt's Rock, The Monkey Traverse, etc. When complete, this miniguide should comprise about 45 problems, about the same number as the miniguide for Lower Alamo Rock Ridge. Alone or in combination with Lower Alamo Rock Ridge and/or the Candel Area, this is a great place for a circuit of easier to moderate problems on good stone away from other climbers and user groups. You'll see other parties here sometimes, but it's definitely away from the masses that seemingly can't escape the gravity of The Monkey Traverse and the other popular and more social areas. If you have a good head, there are some fun highballs with good rock to jump on ... this an excellent area to log some mileage. There are a few things back here that are clearly topropes, which could be bouldered out/free-soloed and I'm sure a couple of the more historical ones have. For the most part, I will ignore those and you can look them up in one of Pat Ament's 5 editions of High Over Boulder if you are interested. <span style="color: yellow;"><strong>Where:</strong></span> Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Walk past One-Arm Rocks and Crown Rock, then turn left and follow a nice path away from the masses that trends southeast to the upper reaches of the Alamo Rock Ridge. Major features that will initially come into view include Pump Rock, The Rib, Alamo Rock, Navajo Rock and the Erasable Boulder. All of the problems covered in this miniguide are scattered on and around these boulders. Read the descriptions and use the photos to identify problems in this area and see the miniguide for the Lower Alamo Rock Ridge for the problems down the hill.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">More to come =)</div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-77095226561520761102010-02-21T01:57:00.000-08:002010-04-18T09:12:15.486-07:00Candel Area Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8BUxD1GHoRKK9lSBO-adkdrtWeJ4TVsq-QHnHs21zdMFdvJu0JAlXzzhcAYF-h1Bla5XID5FUYH2Az4sre9SizOHDp_hvBpRGvlyyDkiPuedKqjnFiDSdEufhimxATtJgSImhiqmg841D/s1600/Toadstool-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8BUxD1GHoRKK9lSBO-adkdrtWeJ4TVsq-QHnHs21zdMFdvJu0JAlXzzhcAYF-h1Bla5XID5FUYH2Az4sre9SizOHDp_hvBpRGvlyyDkiPuedKqjnFiDSdEufhimxATtJgSImhiqmg841D/s400/Toadstool-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP7Dnvs0PQiq5GNZj8K1A901kO2bhPpRup-Eeqic_ZFWSEakdEPUcLBkN-htgrChQfJRa1j37HgzDtxzFZv7snKkwwyRGtH8atE4HV27k7uyyBpgATCg8-B5BAixNOVsO0XviAGHBBnbjl/s1600/LionsDen-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP7Dnvs0PQiq5GNZj8K1A901kO2bhPpRup-Eeqic_ZFWSEakdEPUcLBkN-htgrChQfJRa1j37HgzDtxzFZv7snKkwwyRGtH8atE4HV27k7uyyBpgATCg8-B5BAixNOVsO0XviAGHBBnbjl/s400/LionsDen-FINAL.JPG" width="300" wt="true" /></a></div>The Candel Area refers to a collection of mostly smaller blocks spread out along and around a north-to-south spine of rock 60 yards east of the Alamo Rock Ridge. A number of problems here were established by Rob Candelaria, hence the name. It is a nice place for a circuit of easier to moderate problems on mostly good stone. It's almost always quiet and peaceful at the Candel Area, so if you visit, you will likely have it to yourself. It is difficult to navigate this area with multiple pads, as the trees are dense in places and quite a bit of scrambling is required to reach some of the boulders and walls. Nevertheless, a lot of the problems are relatively safe with 1 pad and the vast majority are V2 or easier. <b><span style="color: yellow;">Where:</span></b> Head up Flagstaff Road. Park 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain) at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Walk past One-Arm Rocks and Crown Rock towards the Monkey Traverse, then turn left and follow a nice path away from the masses that trends southeast to the upper reaches of the Alamo Rock Ridge. Steer around south and then east below the Erasable Boulder on a faint path that leads to the Candel Area. Initially, at the top of a short incline, you will come to a dense patch of smaller pine trees. There's a short problem here and then on the other side of these trees are a collection of smaller blocks containing mostly shorter moderates. If you backtrack to the trees and head south, there is a fairly dense selection of problems sprinkled over the next 125 yards as you head south and downhill along the west side of a ridge of rock. Enjoy the solitude.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;">UPPER CANDEL BLOCKS</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">1. Toadstool VB sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
This problem is located on by itself on the north side of chossy little boulder at the top of the short hill just before the tightly-knit pine trees. From a sds on the northwest side, climb the flaky northwest bulge up mostly jugs.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">2. First Move VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Climb the short and easy northeast corner to the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">3. Second Move V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
Right of #2, begin on really poor starting holds (lots of pebbly-grips and a couple of slopey options), put a foot on a ledge and lunge straight up from from those same really poor holds to the incut lip and mantel it out.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">4. Third Move V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
Right of #3, ascend the west-pointing arête. Without using the small meddling boulders below to get started, do an awkward first move to start using a good RH on the arête and a really poor LH and continue to the top with a possible mantel finish. <br />
<span style="color: yellow;">5. Rabbit Hole V4 / V5 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's</span><br />
Find the arête with a boulder perched above it. Begin on good edges on the arête (a) or a sds below (b) and surf up and left on slopers until you can transition up onto the slabby east face of the upper boulder and go to the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">6. Chess Board Left V0 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's</span><br />
Begin from a sds on two low holds. With good feet, surf the lip up and right to the apex of the boulder and pull over on jugs.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">7. Chess Board Center V0 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's</span><br />
Begin from a sds on a thin LH sidepull and RH jug. Bump your LH up once or twice to better holds and pull over the top. <span style="color: yellow;"><i>Variation #1 - Jones Opening V? sds: </i></span>A variation to #7 that uses the same LH sidepull and a opposing thin RH sidepull instead of the jug to start, which probably necessitates a high right heel-hook to start. A crouching start will be necessary unless you are tall with long arms or you have 2 or 3 pads to stack so you can reach the RH crimp from the sitting position.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">8. Chess Board Right V0 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's</span><br />
Begin from a sds down low on the arête and make a few pulls up and left on good incuts to pull over the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">9. Brickmason Traverse V2 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's *</span><br />
About 10 yards past #6-8 is a narrow north-to-south corridor with a slightly overhanging west face that almost appears to be the work of a <i>brickmason</i>. Start at the southern end and traverse uphill right to left up silky-smooth reddish bricks to the highpoint where you can topout on jugs. A cool traverse on unique rock.<br />
<span style="color: red;">BACKSCRATCHER CORRIDOR</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">10. Backscratcher V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
From the above problems, backtrack out of the little boulders into the tightly-knit pine trees and walk south 20 yards. This corridor is located one level below and west of the Fingers Boulder Corridor. With a jagged-limbed bush right behind you and ready to impale you if you fall, ascend this west-facing bulge to the top from a sds.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">11. Backscratcher Crack VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Five feet right of #11, climb out the obvious wide crack that is almost a chimney.<br />
<span style="color: red;">FINGERS BOULDER CORRIDOR</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">12. Rounded Prow VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Twenty yards before you arrive at the Fingers Boulders proper, look for a tall rounded prow. Climb straight up it on sloping high-friction sloping edges.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">13. Sloping Jugs VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Eight feet right of #12, climb large sloping high-frcition jugs just left of a large tree.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">14. Finger Arête V2 (a) / V4 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
The name is a misnomer, as this is not an arête problem. Start on opposing layaways (a) and climb the short face left of #15. A sds begins below on opposing sidepulls (b) and bumps the grade.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">15. Fingers Fingers V1/2 sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Climb the short finger crack from a sds at the base of the crack to good holds at the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">16. Right Finger V3 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
A few feet right of #15, pull on at the thin finger-slicing edge, slide left a couple feet and topout over the bulge.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">17. Right Finger Direct V7 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2003 *</span><br />
From an obvious sds 8 feet right of the crack at a jug below the start for #16, move up into #16 via a match on or crossover from a thin finger edge. At first glance, this one appears deceivingly easier than advertised.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">18. Finger Free V3 ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's</span><br />
Around to the right from #16 and #17, traverse the somewhat lichenous arête/lip to the left for about 12 feet, then top out where #16 and #17 do.<br />
<span style="color: red;">HUECO HANG</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">19. Hueco Hang Left V0 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
No hueco's here, although there are some on the overhang looming above. Surmount the short bulge up to a ledge at the vertical crack.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">20. Hueco Hang Right V2 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
No hueco's here either. About 15 feet right of #19 and just right of a small leaning pine tree, surmount a bulge up onto a ledge.<br />
<span style="color: red;">THE RAMP</span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">21. The Ramp V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *</span><br />
A contender for the best slab problem on the mountain! Ascend the slick low-angled grey slab just left of The Jug for about 24 feet using pebbles, pockets and thin edges. When you arrive at a bit of a stance with good hands, step right onto a ledge behind the topout for The Jug problems.<br />
<span style="color: red;">THE JUG</span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">22. Legacy of the Kid V4 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *</span><br />
Just right of #21, climb the vertical left side of the red streak to huge incut edges. Continue straight up the left side of the high prow on good holds, then exit transition onto the top via miniscule crimps and an armyman-crawl topout at 24 feet. This one is very committting on thin topout holds with little chance for retreat. At a minimum, I highly recommend scoping out the topout first. Bravo Rob!<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">23. Red Streak V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *</span><br />
Climb the right side of the <i>red streak</i> to the incut edges, then go up and right on enormous jugs to top out with #24.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">24. Right Red V0 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *</span><br />
Start a few feet right of #23, but finish on the same holds. Almost as fun and good as its neighbor.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">25. Southwest Prow V1/2 X ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Start at a large undercling down in a hole at the base of the southwest corner about 10 feet right of #24. Do a couple of hardish moves to get started, then climb the line of least resistance 25+ feet up the low-angled prow to the top. A couple of spots will force you to think and it's along way down to the talus, but it's all there and the very top is quite juggy.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">26. Southwest Face V1 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974</span><br />
Twelve feet right of #25 up on top of a platform of sorts, this low-angle problem ascends pebbles, edges and pockets amongst the lichen for 20+ feet above a slot and talus block landing. There are lots of different ways one could climb this slab, although there is a fairly direct line to the top in the middle.<br />
<span style="color: red;">MUFFET ROCK</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">27. Muffet Rock Traverse V1 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
Begin from a sds low on the right and traverse up and left for 15+ feet. At that point, go to the top on huecos and edges. There is a large 1000 lb teetering block 15 feet up and right from the start of this problem, so stay the hell away from it on the descent.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">28. Muffet Rock Direct V1 sds ... FA: Unknown</span> <br />
Begin from a sds with #27, but after about 5 feet ascend two bulges to the top at an obvious weakness. There is a large 1000 lb teetering block 15 feet up and right from the start of this problem, so stay the hell away from it on the descent.<br />
<span style="color: red;">SUNSHINE SLAB</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">29. Bush Route V0 X ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Left of #31 about 10 feet, climb straight to the high ledge 40+ feet up passing a ledge and a small dead tree on your left.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">30. Reverse Inner Earth Traverse V1/2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975</span><br />
Traverse left to right across the length of the Sunshine Slab, finishing up #36 or at the far right hand end of the wall.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">31. Aerial Ballet V0 X ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
Start up a well-featured section of holds to a stance, then venture up small pebbles and edges to the high ledge 40 feet up. If you like committing slabs, this finishing sequence is for you. See also the next 4 problems.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">32. Difficult Route V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974</span><br />
A few feet right of #31, climb gently up the face to the high ledge 40 feet up using edges and pebbles that may be <i>difficult</i> to trust.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">33. Michael’s Face V2 X ... FA: Jim Michael, 1975</span><br />
Ascend the line that begins directly behind the tree and climbs straight to the high ledge 40 feet up.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">34. Ament Face V2 X ... FA: Pat Ament, 1975</span><br />
Just right of the tree and #33, climb straight to the high ledge 40 feet up.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">35. Aesthetic Face V1 X ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
A few feet right of the tree, climb straight to the high ledge 40 feet up.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">36. Nubbin Wall V0 ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
Climb solid pebbles and <i>nubbins</i> up to a small ledge 15+ feet up. Now downclimb the problem, although it is also possible to traverse right and head down there.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">37. Inner Earth Traverse V2 / V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975</span><br />
Traverse right to left across the entire length of the Sunshine Slab. Stop at the end or head for the top with #29.<br />
<span style="color: red;">PROW ROCK</span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">38. Prow Overhang V4 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
From a low sds on the north corner of the boulder, use closely-spaced crimpers to bump your way up to the top of the prow and pull over. Short, but otherwise perfect.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">39. Chicken Wing V1 sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
From a sds on the opposite and downhill end of the same boulder as #38, move up into a large weird hole and pull up onto the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">40. Pride and Prejudice V0/1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
On the large formation twenty feet to the east of #39, ascend the south-facing side up and left to the arête via incut edges to a ledge at 16+ feet. A couple reaches are necessary, but the holds are all there. Walk off the ledge to the left.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">41. Pockets of Little Resistance V0 X ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
From the same start as #40, ascend the south-facing side up and right via a somewhat chossy seam to attain a good pocket system that takes you all the way to the top, at least 40 feet up. Keep it together up there amongst all the pockets.<br />
<span style="color: red;">CAVE HANG AND THE LION'S DEN</span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">42. Cave Hang V0 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *</span><br />
This steep northwest-facing overhang is behind some talus boulders out of view just right of the Sunshine Slab and east of Prow Rock. Scramble over the talus and this problem is obvious. Start matched on the high jug and pull out the overhang on incut crimps and edges. This problem is a candidate for the best V0 on the mountain.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">43. Cave Hang Direct V5 sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
The sds to #42 that is of lower quality. Start low on a good RH edge and a LH sidepull-undercling. Your first move must be quick, as most of the options for feet consist of disintegrating ballbearings.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">44. Ivy’s Vine V0 ... FA: John Ivy, 1976</span><br />
Go under #42 and #43 out the bottom of the cave and turn left to reach the last two problems. Six feet left of #45, start high and climb out the bulging topout.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">45. Pocket Prow V4/5 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974</span><br />
This problem climbs straight out the south-facing overhang above a cave starting at the obvious shoulder-high pocket that is good for the RH. The straight-up topout is not trivial and will have you battling.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">46. Pocket Prow Direct V7 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004</span><br />
The sds to #45. Begin from a sds underneath the horizontal roof at a rail. You will need to pinch the rail to thrutch out the roof, attain the pocket and then finish up #45.</div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-84921195851164833112010-01-30T22:18:00.000-08:002010-03-19T18:49:05.463-07:00Backside of the Amphitheater Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0VbGsJAEK0tS8BQsiYyTEyvboj3NSaeoYiKE1GxMWw7Pid37G0UlEtUc-nuALrNudHe7azaitFsYFwuPQro3cKWE0Yp2h4vqcAjFInYzFQhX2gM95pzPwLRvZyh4i7SMzZQfW4wrBhcqQ/s1600-h/BackofAmphitheater-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0VbGsJAEK0tS8BQsiYyTEyvboj3NSaeoYiKE1GxMWw7Pid37G0UlEtUc-nuALrNudHe7azaitFsYFwuPQro3cKWE0Yp2h4vqcAjFInYzFQhX2gM95pzPwLRvZyh4i7SMzZQfW4wrBhcqQ/s400/BackofAmphitheater-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu_A-7P-LjEWNXLAXKsCfisL09hghNhFSRJKpGO2Ns652NQ4kAG8UsfjhCmvxgut00iOrIagMkxZ5N9U-jUTmrDC3vDO0GesQi2dSHDc-s3i_JoZXHXSZ633TPl_wnenfoiqc5d1P677B3/s1600-h/GapOverhang-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu_A-7P-LjEWNXLAXKsCfisL09hghNhFSRJKpGO2Ns652NQ4kAG8UsfjhCmvxgut00iOrIagMkxZ5N9U-jUTmrDC3vDO0GesQi2dSHDc-s3i_JoZXHXSZ633TPl_wnenfoiqc5d1P677B3/s400/GapOverhang-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;">I had optimistically hoped the childish graffitti on the Backside of the Amphitheater would be sandblasted away before I added this little area to the guide, but alas ... two years after I told the OSMP folks about it (twice), gave them my phone number and volunteered man-hours on behalf of this project, they still have done nothing and have never called. Try not to let the graffitti dissuade you from a short visit, as it is a nice spot, with at least two excellent problems: a left to right traverse of the entire wall that finishes up top and the up-problem out the center of the overhang. If we can get the graffitti removed, I will try and redo the Miniguide wihout the visual effects. <span style="color: yellow;"><b>Where:</b></span> Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past the Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of Flagstaff Road across from the Crown Rock Parking Area. Stay right at the first split and turn left when you reach the Pebble Wall. When you reach the top of the stairs 30 seconds later, head up into the Amphitheater proper and squeeze up and left through the Mongolian Cosmonaut Alcove. The Backside of the Amphitheater is located 15 yards past Mongolian Cosmonaut. The problems face north and essentially get full shade every day of the year, making it a nice place to visit in the heat of the summer.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;">1. Whiskey Before Breakfast V2 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006</span><br />
Begin from a sds on a rail below the end of the traverse. Slide a little right and pull up and over the short bulge.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">2. Hellen Keller V1 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Pull on at end of the traverse, reach up onto the left-trending arête and surf left for 6 to 8 feet across the sloping rail. When the hands flatten out, rock over to a jug on the capstone and stand up.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">3. North Overhang V2/3 ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
Start low in the center of the overhang and climb straight out the middle of the roof via an unreal crossover and reach to the lip. The crux is over, now match, move up to a hand ledge and keep it together while you pull up and over the capstone. Falling up there could be bad without a whole bunch of pads and spotters.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">4. North Overhang Traverse V7/8 ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
From the low jug on the far left, traverse right all the way across the face, then up and over at the obvious weakness. The crux comes immediately, but it unfortunately involves avoiding the meddling boulder behind your back/butt without dabbing. Otherwise, a really nice traverse. <span style="color: yellow;"><i>Variation #1 - Full North Overhang Traverse V8:</i></span> It is possible to start 4 or 5 feet further to the left on sharp chossy crimps. This may be worthy of V8, but this takes away from the quality of the regular line.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">5. Old Mann Boy V5 ... FA: Ken Gibson, 2006</span><br />
Start at the incut jug on the left side of the wall where #4 starts, pull hard up to a right hand edge and move left to the lip. From there, reach over the lip with your RH to a pebble, then paddle up pebbles and cobbles to safety.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">6. Gap Overhang V2 ... FA: Jonathan Thesenga, mid 1990’s</span><br />
Head around the corner to the left from the Backside of the Amphitheater. Squeeze back into the wide gap between the blocks that form the Right and Center of the Amphitheater. From the stance in the gap, climb the northwest-facing face to an overhang via cobbles, chossy edges and flakes and pull over the top.</div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-54471027997715053752010-01-15T03:41:00.000-08:002010-03-20T02:35:30.624-07:00Grassy Knoll Boulders Miniguide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsj9vyKVfMCw3k8ffdvuzna-OK5TqPbrINWEidQeCiGivH-xDGY2x4k7BF2TEayHTIRKeWRQS75QMLATNVrLmURQTbFn_15hDxLI0N7AMVAdv0Eb8k5-Tu4vQVuJKLVmrMLSz4JOfs0nvY/s1600-h/BrokenHeartRock-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" mt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsj9vyKVfMCw3k8ffdvuzna-OK5TqPbrINWEidQeCiGivH-xDGY2x4k7BF2TEayHTIRKeWRQS75QMLATNVrLmURQTbFn_15hDxLI0N7AMVAdv0Eb8k5-Tu4vQVuJKLVmrMLSz4JOfs0nvY/s400/BrokenHeartRock-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8TiB3vJlef9_h-Jiwusn9rWQeOMW_F2V_Wj69Le_Mr2mkxNiKCH7C9N76GFBkON9416C1FlLUg1PQYtTG-EZrOjh0bgd8UMxYgUcB2OuII-5Y_fycs3ELt-6jLsVoYPKZzd7WJEixvIf5/s1600-h/DiamondOverhang-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" mt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8TiB3vJlef9_h-Jiwusn9rWQeOMW_F2V_Wj69Le_Mr2mkxNiKCH7C9N76GFBkON9416C1FlLUg1PQYtTG-EZrOjh0bgd8UMxYgUcB2OuII-5Y_fycs3ELt-6jLsVoYPKZzd7WJEixvIf5/s400/DiamondOverhang-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #cccccc; font-family: inherit; line-height: 20px;">Grassy Knoll Boulders are comprised of two blocks, the aptly-named Broken Heart Rock and Diamond Overhang, both of which are located in the grassy area across the street from the Crown Rock Parking Area below the Pebble Wall and Red Wall Boulders. There's nothing hard here, but it can be a fun place to take a beginner, warm up or chill by yourself. <strong><span style="color: #ffff33;">Where:</span></strong> Head up Flagstaff Road. Park at the Crown Rock Parking Area, located 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain) or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Approach the boulders from the Crown Rock Parking Area by crossing the road, taking an immediate right downhill on the Flagstaff Trail. About 30 yards later, you'll see Broken Heart Rock on the left just off the trail. Access Diamond Overhang from here by treading lightly on a faint path for 30 yards to the northwest by walking directly towards Pebble Wall, the Amphitheater, Red Wall, etc.</span><br />
<span style="color: red; font-family: inherit;">BROKEN HEART ROCK</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">1. Broken Heart Traverse V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">From a sds on holds way down on the right, traverse left all the way into and up #6 without the benefit of the high jugs throughout the traverse.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">2. Broken Heart Far Right V0 sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin from a low sds on a rail and climb straight up and over. A hidden 2-finger divot up over the top should help with the finish.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">3. Broken Heart Right VB sds ... Unknown</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin from a sds and climb out the right side past jugs then slopers.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">4. Broken Heart Mantel VB sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin from a sds and move up to jugs. With one hand on each side of the huge hueco, double mantel to get your feet up and reach the top. Easy fun.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">5. Broken Heart Left VB sds ... Unknown</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin from a sds on good edges, move up to jugs that turn to slopers on your way to the top.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">6. Broken Heart Far Left VB sds ... Unknown</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">On the left edge of the overhang, begin from a sds, move up past 2 slopers to jugs. Continue up and over with branches behind you.</span><br />
<span style="color: red; font-family: inherit;">DIAMOND OVERHANG</span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">7. Diamond in the Rough V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999 *</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">From a low sds on the corner beneath the large jug, yank to the jug, then continue via a couple more big moves on good holds to the top of this little-known and steep gem.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">8. Rough Cut Right V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">From good starting holds under the overhang, move directly right and pull over.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">9. Rough Cut Left V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Start on good holds under the overhang, move left up the crack and pull over.</span></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-73222624694925191352010-01-15T03:15:00.000-08:002010-03-20T02:36:15.853-07:00Forgotten Ridge Miniguide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfX-9NnodWe019zEjEkiBeLqk69RKWo7M-3tqtY04qbU3xftQ9K3RItZDMoNBgg1UVVQK1bIGhHI1LOpGeNskzwHvz3dq0BPzUHvceIJ_n8jDAqNEPikX8au_3F84CBpOj80H58cUuLBG1/s1600-h/ForgottenFin-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfX-9NnodWe019zEjEkiBeLqk69RKWo7M-3tqtY04qbU3xftQ9K3RItZDMoNBgg1UVVQK1bIGhHI1LOpGeNskzwHvz3dq0BPzUHvceIJ_n8jDAqNEPikX8au_3F84CBpOj80H58cUuLBG1/s400/ForgottenFin-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRRXdBxp0YOH-fy4RuqqLawxmCain8Z1oOf0aerGmUVrtizwQiR0py8GUbHw_OxD04pUEJO53VxskBP04BdgF_l3MwlsATV0hZWLEhmBAoh6r4YJLhCnosrr0VddZTbCQw-uANXji7fSwe/s1600-h/ForgottenBoulder-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRRXdBxp0YOH-fy4RuqqLawxmCain8Z1oOf0aerGmUVrtizwQiR0py8GUbHw_OxD04pUEJO53VxskBP04BdgF_l3MwlsATV0hZWLEhmBAoh6r4YJLhCnosrr0VddZTbCQw-uANXji7fSwe/s400/ForgottenBoulder-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNRQJEiOUWrYWX8siI74BBXlDFimMfH60zZieQTGgNquNTOlC6PFb419T8BzQRrEnQWp6NfGSwCT-vtHCSjrBmDUp1yQmZtYUW0FxMJWnaLMihEnMLNPhIi03RuokqvDQIkkJvGuJVGeNx/s1600-h/ForsakenBoulder-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNRQJEiOUWrYWX8siI74BBXlDFimMfH60zZieQTGgNquNTOlC6PFb419T8BzQRrEnQWp6NfGSwCT-vtHCSjrBmDUp1yQmZtYUW0FxMJWnaLMihEnMLNPhIi03RuokqvDQIkkJvGuJVGeNx/s400/ForsakenBoulder-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #cccccc; font-family: inherit; line-height: 20px;">Forgotten Ridge is an secluded ridge of rock with a handful of moderate problems and very few visitors. There are great views, wildlife aplenty, isolation unlike most areas on the mountain (in spite of its proximity to a 5-star restaurant) and a fun moderate or two. <span style="color: #ffff33;">Where:</span> Forgotten Ridge is a cool spot located 150 yards above The Flagstaff House steakhouse, although it should NOT be accessed from there. The best approach is to park in the pullout at the left-turning switchback 2.1 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge (the First Overhang pullout). From the parking lot, hop on the trail and immediately turn right and head directly downhill. Cut left when you get to the bottom of the hill and continue north past King Conquer Rock and the Around the World Boulder. A very faint social trail heads north-northeast between the sparsely-growing ponderosa pines. After about 200 yards, you will arrive at a small ridge of climbable rock that is quite colorful. Problems are described right to left across this ridge and at least one problem (#5) may be found on a block just downhill to the east.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"><span style="color: red; font-family: inherit;">FORGOTTEN FIN</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">1. Forgotten Fin V0 ... FA: Unknown</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In the middle of a cluster of a tight cluster of boulders, layback a seam on this colorful boulder until going for the top seems obvious.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">2. Catch a Fire V4/5 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin from a funky sds directly below the starting hold for #1 and climb up into and finish up #1.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red; font-family: inherit;">FORGOTTEN BOULDER</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">3. Forget-Me-Not V0 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Twenty yards north of #s 1-2 and just left of a tree, climb jugs up a short west-facing overhang to good topout edges. A really nice V0.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">4. Forget About It V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Ten feet left of Forget-Me-Not, pull a short bulge on low and super-thin sloping microholds, establish on the slab on more of the same and dance up the dime-edged slab to the top. This one may induce laughing or at least it did for me.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red; font-family: inherit;">FORSAKEN BOULDER</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">5. Forsaken V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001 *</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Climb up the left side of the slightly overhanging face using a couple holds in/near a right-arching seam, moving right at the top to a perfect topout jug. At the time, I really wanted to do a proud line to the right, but it just didn't come together.</span></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-6905320171841550902010-01-15T02:52:00.000-08:002010-05-01T17:54:55.243-07:00Makeout Boulders Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh8PS3W4RdTkPFWsZ1QVNNVWIQ-_23-LR-trwZ2agnok8jiMurjj0fFdKAVa8IWMsgt9IevLZaSq7BmhkI98x4TpsMYLoYhyphenhyphen1qiuPhNwhkeIIJ2Jc0E0-6gPmpQN6cofE2vPZQtXgdyHUB/s1600-h/MakeoutOverhang-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh8PS3W4RdTkPFWsZ1QVNNVWIQ-_23-LR-trwZ2agnok8jiMurjj0fFdKAVa8IWMsgt9IevLZaSq7BmhkI98x4TpsMYLoYhyphenhyphen1qiuPhNwhkeIIJ2Jc0E0-6gPmpQN6cofE2vPZQtXgdyHUB/s400/MakeoutOverhang-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrq3ZBUuchFfLakrep0JmWcCj82l3PsK59chMzA3TV1Exofo43ZuYfgVe1xuuvOjsw0FqCsdSkLlbI-aPEeRf213hLzqQN4IyK1Zh_zEqrcD_M93FWT8UNsqaJf3hOMVzcbV8EKLt858M2/s1600-h/DryHumpRock-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrq3ZBUuchFfLakrep0JmWcCj82l3PsK59chMzA3TV1Exofo43ZuYfgVe1xuuvOjsw0FqCsdSkLlbI-aPEeRf213hLzqQN4IyK1Zh_zEqrcD_M93FWT8UNsqaJf3hOMVzcbV8EKLt858M2/s400/DryHumpRock-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIq5fK7XcYDP0nNaxbRnqtBBy97-y9HaYX4XZn8ZMIVnZnyo8mywx0a-eX04HlW-2nSO6D6cvalhxADyQIibiabXSUBGngldDm8Dffs9du-1PYpeYSCRaoDQG9uUUpDsC020CUOxJkrFq1/s1600-h/AllHandsRock-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIq5fK7XcYDP0nNaxbRnqtBBy97-y9HaYX4XZn8ZMIVnZnyo8mywx0a-eX04HlW-2nSO6D6cvalhxADyQIibiabXSUBGngldDm8Dffs9du-1PYpeYSCRaoDQG9uUUpDsC020CUOxJkrFq1/s400/AllHandsRock-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-5H_TRvMeBu9WzrAYvZf-g9enlejE4DcGtaYmeqpyONLm7Tu9T1nzBKnh3EiPq07B3NABKVyVGiBwidN7IL09W6BP74wY18ZbinwSWYO4fv19fiiGHFJWbI62iMKZK8KNF2EH9jvKpd6/s1600-h/PhallusRock-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq-5H_TRvMeBu9WzrAYvZf-g9enlejE4DcGtaYmeqpyONLm7Tu9T1nzBKnh3EiPq07B3NABKVyVGiBwidN7IL09W6BP74wY18ZbinwSWYO4fv19fiiGHFJWbI62iMKZK8KNF2EH9jvKpd6/s400/PhallusRock-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JR-96g1TV3XLH2SOB6WQzS7STh2cFpSYRTdUgDkKH174ARWNJwiF8edEucoWPlhyphenhyphenpy5RhQR6CbuC3sBOh3RO8RboruPsgoPpoqYs80vhpHuvrmmrO8M410CbMgvY0COFE657MvKu1Q6U/s1600-h/RoadsideBoulder-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JR-96g1TV3XLH2SOB6WQzS7STh2cFpSYRTdUgDkKH174ARWNJwiF8edEucoWPlhyphenhyphenpy5RhQR6CbuC3sBOh3RO8RboruPsgoPpoqYs80vhpHuvrmmrO8M410CbMgvY0COFE657MvKu1Q6U/s400/RoadsideBoulder-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><span style="color: #cccccc; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">A small section of chossy boulders that climbers rarely visit, although this area is well-used and abused by others. The rock isn't great and the problems aren't either, but you're likely to have them all to yourself during the day, along with the cans, bottles, glass, forgotten undergarments, cigarette butts, discarded condoms and whatever else is left behind by the nighttime visitors. Visit them shortly after a Trash Bash and the area will be fairly clean, but the problems will still be of the lowest quality. </span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Where: </span></span></b></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Park at the Corwin Simmons Rock pullout 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge, which is the switchback pullout immediately before arriving at Capstan Rock. Walk back down the road 50 yards and take the Flagstaff Trail up the mountain for 70 yards and you'll see a cluster of boulders on the left. All but one of the described problems are in a tight cluster right there and the last problem is up the hill on the road at the switchback 0.1 miles before the Crown Rock Parking Area. Although you can scramble up to that problem, it is probably best if that problem is accessed from the road further up.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"><span style="color: red;">MAKEOUT BOULDERS</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">1. Truth or Dare V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2010</span><br />
Ascend the face just left of the arête up the pebbles and poor crimps to the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">2. Makeout Overhang V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001</span><br />
This is probably the best of the problems here, but that's not saying much. From a sds at a jug, move up using huge feet to access a rotten flake. From here, go to a shelf system and the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">3. Dry Hump V0 sds ... FA: Kevin Cropp, 2001</span><br />
Begin from a sds at the base of a short chossy hump of rock, use some small edges to reach the sloping top and pull up and over.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">4. All Hands V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001</span><br />
Start on good holds on the far right side of the south-face. Hand traverse up and left above a small cave, then pull up onto the slabby top. Lichen has probably reclaimed much of this problem.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">5. Phallus V1 sds ... Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
From a sds under this short <em>phallus</em>, start up a rotten pocket system and pull up and over onto the top. The best thing about this problem is that I actually convinced Justin Jaeger to climb it.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">6. Short Stuff V0 sds ... Chip Phillips, 2001</span><br />
Begin from a sds on a good sidepull pocket 10 feet right of Phallus and pull up and over a very short west-facing overhang.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">7. Roadside Attraction V1 sds ... FA: Unknown</span> <br />
Just off the road, begin from a somewhat awkward sds on the arête and pull the bulge on the side of the boulder facing the road. This problem has the best rock in this zone, but it's only 6 feet tall.</div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-16903565460735937362010-01-07T23:02:00.000-08:002010-11-01T22:53:24.691-07:00Down the Mountain Cliffs Miniguide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie1cKjz8B3ljdkHpXXQCtPbXdYkkAIW-Iocgook4BBT_Q-F196KynCZHHCqT3W6s0eAnyuvHUpogn_oPLK7PiAqH7LLMjLaVgo_2TDgCjdbTc2haM48h0pClsKE1srUOLb3p2QfyglSn5P/s400/HalfPintBlock-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgILfnGB6b7ncpQdRw2_SG8FxJd_LaxnUNO1Iqugh_JYGmYfGPni-MwTEzD3_OrGM43QRyumL4dLgHw40_xudOE7w9vRfkVCglykfocjlg1o5IOCSKVrxc1kKiOEoz60CPJgENu2CRA_XWk/s1600-h/PlainViewLeft-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgILfnGB6b7ncpQdRw2_SG8FxJd_LaxnUNO1Iqugh_JYGmYfGPni-MwTEzD3_OrGM43QRyumL4dLgHw40_xudOE7w9vRfkVCglykfocjlg1o5IOCSKVrxc1kKiOEoz60CPJgENu2CRA_XWk/s320/PlainViewLeft-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFEE-ak6T7ewmbaljBH3l5r8-ZQSo7vKtEY01MLG0iLQW-JDU4RIGj0lk6wR32-ityKX6us-hNH2URXtak7mj6ARSsVIoksHkV_kwBlkAt1jtMTZnxzihzGAWfAGSvBTY5tBux4m4ANS5/s1600-h/PlainViewCenter-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFEE-ak6T7ewmbaljBH3l5r8-ZQSo7vKtEY01MLG0iLQW-JDU4RIGj0lk6wR32-ityKX6us-hNH2URXtak7mj6ARSsVIoksHkV_kwBlkAt1jtMTZnxzihzGAWfAGSvBTY5tBux4m4ANS5/s320/PlainViewCenter-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt96Bb3hNKaNRZzFDnfiykzzyWldI8ujZiBfSeXNBpv-IwHRBnIEl1zFwI4kFkeFkZ08bOUwC2X6NYIh-cwsKFmtFX5XOFAY82m-mMLKSTKBpKhkgulQefrSZ2yN0-dVnX5WBR2Z2-Oerw/s1600-h/PlainViewRight-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt96Bb3hNKaNRZzFDnfiykzzyWldI8ujZiBfSeXNBpv-IwHRBnIEl1zFwI4kFkeFkZ08bOUwC2X6NYIh-cwsKFmtFX5XOFAY82m-mMLKSTKBpKhkgulQefrSZ2yN0-dVnX5WBR2Z2-Oerw/s320/PlainViewRight-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj164odDzn0zWP5EL-5B4R25Zaq48zxlTpqDgkcepMnVq_RnQGjOuLB4zZZXGdZwa2j559UWm6QdPsIK5F_QK-UpGWyfJoV7l-UI4Fn7cLo_vrotFRIgKgigz5jtNFKocKOInQwOrkk0weh/s1600-h/Front&Center-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj164odDzn0zWP5EL-5B4R25Zaq48zxlTpqDgkcepMnVq_RnQGjOuLB4zZZXGdZwa2j559UWm6QdPsIK5F_QK-UpGWyfJoV7l-UI4Fn7cLo_vrotFRIgKgigz5jtNFKocKOInQwOrkk0weh/s320/Front&Center-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnRW1hVLgCiu4QRqwED6KxqRGI-tf2HaOjREKpVxNNOe1nE92kQK4KY53z2oDUlpVZUOoFmUYfd8_bEuMSdJBF53niuO4FJN_iR8esQmJHLzV-qc4mHAeqi18UiegZt0XK4rmMjIqP19jX/s1600-h/FinJam-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnRW1hVLgCiu4QRqwED6KxqRGI-tf2HaOjREKpVxNNOe1nE92kQK4KY53z2oDUlpVZUOoFmUYfd8_bEuMSdJBF53niuO4FJN_iR8esQmJHLzV-qc4mHAeqi18UiegZt0XK4rmMjIqP19jX/s320/FinJam-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1x6hrbRGbRAaI67Mx2eeSAhrFbceuc7ZMNg64M06EbvZDXe-QICmhTs0Nn5Ogh1Xm36Yxwql2LLMn5jQLsRLF06WK5HgeGfZgBq070g5JbBc_pfLqCbvCkHxKX1L3OxwzJRMrkoDx4gY/s1600-h/HuecoOverhangLeft-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1x6hrbRGbRAaI67Mx2eeSAhrFbceuc7ZMNg64M06EbvZDXe-QICmhTs0Nn5Ogh1Xm36Yxwql2LLMn5jQLsRLF06WK5HgeGfZgBq070g5JbBc_pfLqCbvCkHxKX1L3OxwzJRMrkoDx4gY/s320/HuecoOverhangLeft-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh37NoFSCw9oze-Z8qhE3Z8ztKhZ7xzNISZt3MptV4Q4EP0uZM6jKGCqK2UlFoJZ_FOhpPCLTFrFJsuF454thmRVn11NP14cYK43yI_moHZ9gG4Z397cmZPnh7yZCglGcAe3KF01SaDWZw8/s1600-h/HuecoOverhangRight-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh37NoFSCw9oze-Z8qhE3Z8ztKhZ7xzNISZt3MptV4Q4EP0uZM6jKGCqK2UlFoJZ_FOhpPCLTFrFJsuF454thmRVn11NP14cYK43yI_moHZ9gG4Z397cmZPnh7yZCglGcAe3KF01SaDWZw8/s320/HuecoOverhangRight-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidy2an3Y3uJ0xJU8fr8vbdypGiDfzrQi2bfr6cU4JB6tF9WCcurD4TA6VDdENFpxdhsiBJaLAYCcPO6N6tp4wmCKJRCRVQ9COR1o55WVAm8M1kMqIkYDcvV5UujrfbDrvULaPgS07eJMjQ/s1600/TheStaircase-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidy2an3Y3uJ0xJU8fr8vbdypGiDfzrQi2bfr6cU4JB6tF9WCcurD4TA6VDdENFpxdhsiBJaLAYCcPO6N6tp4wmCKJRCRVQ9COR1o55WVAm8M1kMqIkYDcvV5UujrfbDrvULaPgS07eJMjQ/s320/TheStaircase-FINAL.JPG" wt="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #cccccc; line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Down the Mountain Cliffs refers to a series of north-to-south ridges of of boulders and walls uphill from the Hobo Cave which overlook Boulder. There is a lot of rock and tall slabs here, but the majority of good sandstone for bouldering is concentrated in a little zone towards the bottom of the two west-most ridges of rock. Most of these problems are easy moderates, but several of them are quite fun and it remains quiet and peaceful here most days. Bring a beginner to the Plain Sight Wall with a couple pads for an excellent time. There is a lot of other rock in the area, some of it quite chossy. Several other unworthwhile problems have been done and not included herein for that reason. If you do something pretty good or noteworthy, please let me know and I'll try to include it. </span></span><span style="color: yellow;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">There are numerous ways to get to these boulders, but I will give general beta for two of them: (1) park before crossing The Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain and walk 10-15 minutes up the Flagstaff Trail, passing the Hobo Cave on your right, then up 3 or 4 short switchbacks, passing numerous ridges of mostly chossy rock to the north until the trail turns north once and for all and brings you up to the base of the Plain View Ridge, the Front & Center Boulder and the Hueco Wall Ridge; or (2) access the Flagstaff Trail from the west (further up the mountain), by parking on the street 0.9 miles after passing over The Armstrong Bridge (there is room for about 6 tightly-packed cars here on the right hand side of the straightaway) just before the Flagstaff Trail crosses the road. When accessing these problems from the west hike down the Flagstaff Trail 1-2 minutes from the road until the trail turns south and brings you to the Plain View Wall Ridge, the Front & Center Boulder and the Hueco Wall Ridge. The Staircase is located 60 yards to the south of these problems. Find it by following the ridgeline south past some small outcroppings until you come to it. Half-Pint (problem #1), on the other hand, is found near the northern terminus of these cliffs, a couple hundred yards away from the rest of the problems, and explicit directions for that problem are provided below.</span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;">HALF PINT BLOCK</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;">1. Half Pint V8 sds ... FA: Will Lemaire, 2008</span><br />
At present, this problem is off by itself and has only seen a couple of ascents. Start under the roof on the right on obvious edges with sparse feet. An obvious face hold behind you will bridge the gap to the lip, but the trick is sorting out the 3 moves necessary to get into position for the finishing mantel. This one might be easier than V8 if you can skip the first move to the obvious hold on the face. Find this problem by leaving the main concentration of problems at the Down the Mountain Cliffs walking northwest along the Flagstaff Trail up towards the road. After about 40 yards (and about 50 yards before you get to the road), turn right on a designated trail that heads north towards Panorama Point. After about 30 yards, turn right down a rocky wash (not a trail) that trends downhill with a bunch of outcroppings on your right. After about 75 yards, as you near the northern terminus of the Down the Mountain Cliffs, a large dead tree will block the wash. Turn right and walk directly uphill from here about 20 yards. As you crest a small hill, the small northeast-facing little cave that is home to this problem will be obvious.<br />
<span style="color: red;">PLAIN VIEW RIDGE</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">2. Plain View Scramble VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Pull on at the shelf and scramble up this low angle spire using mostly good holds with big feet.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">3. Plain View Lowball V0 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
An overhanging problem with nice grips, but alas it is only 6 or 7 feet tall. From a sds right on the trail, pull on with obvious edges in solution pockets. A couple moves later, you'll be at the lip, which is the crux and may require a RF heel hook and mantel maneuver to pull up top. An OK little problem. One may also finish the traverses described in #13 and #14 here.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">4. Hiding in Plain View V1 ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
From a stand start between the seams, ascend the overhanging face with good - although hidden - holds in the opposing seams and then again over the lip. A block awaits in the landing area if you blow the topout, so pad it up accordingly. An excellent problem for the grade. One may also finish the traverses described in #13 and #14 here.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">5. Left Plain View Arête V0 ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
Begin from a stand start on an incut rail and ascend mostly jugs up the arête. When you reach the top of the arête, trend right until you reach an obvious place to pull over. An awkward sds adds nothing. The traverses described in #13 and #14 finish here, but they can certainly finish on other problems (see e.g., #3 and #4).<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">6. Hueco Rancheros V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
Begin from an absolutely awkward and powerful low sds just right of the arête with your LH in the lowest hueco and your RH on the low rail. Do the crux move to the next hueco, then go to the incut rail at 7 feet. From there, take your time finding small grips hiding on the face on your way to the top. Skip the first move and climb straight up the face for ~V1.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">7. Adjust Your Sights V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
Begin from a very low sds just to the right of #6 using the low LH crimp on the rail and the large but low RH sidepull jug. Throw your RF heel onto the shelf, pull on and throw hard with your RH for the incut fin/rail. From there, trend up and left on big obvious holds with #8 to the same topout as #5 and #6. You can skip the first move for VB or just do #8.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">8. Plain View Left V0 sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
The line of least resistance on the wall from a sds. Start matched on the shelf with #9 and #10. Move up and left to the incut fin/rail and cruise up and left on big holds to the top with #7.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">9. Five Crimps V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *</span><br />
A bit contrived, but a nice contrivance with an obvious rule (the huge incut fin/rail out left and useful for #8 is off). Start matched on the low shelf with #8 and #10 and make a beeline up a series of 5 obvious crimps that are almost in a straight line. This will bring you to the halfway point on the wall. From there, this problem continues up inconspicuous holds to pull over all by itself in the middle of the wall.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">10. Sideswipe V2/3 sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Start matched on the low shelf with #8 and #9 and make 1-2 moves up the crimps used on #9, then veer up and right via a big move to a funky shelf of sorts with lots of friction. Match and continue with #11 to a nice topout on jugs on the right side of the wall. Finishing up the high arête is optional, low quality and adds nothing.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">11. Plain View Right V0 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
One of the nicest problems in the area. Begin from a low sds just below the large hueco. Pull on using two opposing sidepull edges and make a move into the large hueco. From there continue up good edges and crimps to the juggy topout. Beginning from a stand matched in the pocket is also ~V0, so you might as well just do the sds. Finishing up the high arête is optional, but adds nothing.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">12. Right Plain View Arête VB ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
Begin from a stand start on the very far right and surf up the arête to the topout with #10 and #11 on jugs. Another nice easy problem. Finishing up the high arête is optional, but adds nothing.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">13. Plain View Traverse V1 ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
Begin on the far right and traverse left across the wall using anything and everything to attain the incut fin/rail. A couple more moves to the left and you can finish up #5. It is also possible to continue around the corner and finish up #4 or #3, but stopping at #5 is the most obvious choice.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">14. Plain View Traverse Low V5 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><br />
Excellent and sequential. A couple holds are sharp, but the rest are perfect Flagstaff grips. Begin on the far right at the arête and traverse left across the wall, using no holds above 5 feet. Drop down low after a few moves and complete the traverse by using the low huecos instead of the incut fin/rail to reach the left arête and finish up #5. You may continue around the corner and finish up #4 or #3 instead, but this adds nothing.<br />
<span style="color: red;">FRONT & CENTER BOULDER</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">15. Up & Right V1 sds ... FA: </span><span style="color: yellow;">Kevin Cropp 2002</span><br />
The west-facing Front & Center Boulder sits 20 feet west of Plain View Ridge, facing away from the trail. Begin from a sds down and left from the obvious and undercut fin on sloping edges, slide right to attain the fin and surf up and right to finish with #16.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">16. Up and Left V3 ... FA: </span><span style="color: yellow;">Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
Pull onto the lowest part of the right side of the fin and battle up and slightly left to topout. Harder than it looks and - although sharp - it is fun..<br />
<span style="color: red;">HUECO OVERHANG RIDGE</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">17. Fin Jam V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
The Hueco Overhang Ridge refers to the spine of rock immediately behind The Plain View Ridge. This problem is located on the far left hand side in a little alcove of sorts, Start below a south-facing crack and move up to a handjam between two fins. From there, stretch for the top and pull over.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">18. True Colors V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
On the west face right of Fin Jam, begin from a sds just right of the incut rail. Climb straight out the bulge without the benefit of the rail, finishing slightly left of the highest part of the wall.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">19. Alcove Crack V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *</span><br />
Ten feet right of #18 and just left of a small pine tree, pull up into a small alcove and stance and make a few moves out the overhanging crack system via good holds up and over. The downclimb from the top of Hueco Overhang comes over and down into the base of this problem from the right.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">20. Layback Bulge VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
This problem starts ascends a short seam to the top. Go left to the downclimb.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">21. Crumbs V1 ... FA: Kevin Cropp, 2002</span><br />
From two obvious finger pockets in the middle of the overhang, pull on and trend slightly left up crumbling sloping edges to the top.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">22. Christmas Tree Massacre V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *</span><br />
Begin with #21 at the two obvious finger pockets, move straight up to edges, perch, reach into the remnants of a hueco system near the top and pull over on jugs.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">23. Christmas Tree Mystery V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *</span><br />
Begin 5 feet right of #22 at a large and low flake. Go up using edges, then reach high and left for the remnants of a hueco system near the top and pull over on jugs with #22.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">24. Deliverance V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007</span><br />
Almost as disturbing as the movie of the same name. Climb the far right side of the wall at the dihedral/arête to the top. There are lots of good features, but I never got around to cleaning it properly. A lot of lichen and quite a bit of choss is still lurking. The fall is multi-tiered and hideous. For all these reasons, this is NOT a classic.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">25. Hueco Overhang Traverse V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *</span><br />
Traverse right to left 10 feet from the arête and finish up #23. We originally started from a sds around to the right, but in hindsight it's downright stupid to do so, so just start on the arête.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">26. Full Hueco Overhang Traverse V4... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
Traverse right to left 15 feet from the arête and finish up #21. This one has great grips until the last sloper or two at the top of #21. We originally started from a sds around to the right, but in hindsight it's downright stupid to do so, so just start on the arête.<br />
<span style="color: red;">THE STAIRCASE</span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">27. The Escalator V6/7 ... FA: Peter Jones, 2010 *</span><br />
Begin with #28 and #29 in opposing and obvious hand cracks at chest/neck level. Slide left across an obvious rail with three decent holds on it. Throw your right heel up and make a huge move out left to the far left arête and battle your way up with tension to the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">28. Project</span><br />
Begin with #27 and #29 in opposing and obvious hand cracks at chest/neck level. Slide left to an obvious shelf, then make a hard move up to a sloping edge next to a seam before gaining the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">29. The Staircase V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002</span><br />
Begin with #27 and #28 in opposing and obvious hand cracks at chest/neck level. Make a move or two up to a good hold at the lip and steer left up the high arête on jugs to the top.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">30. Miami Vice V3/4 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2010</span><br />
Begin matched down and right from #27-29 on a large sloping shelf. Surf up and left up the rising arête to the top.</div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-89168170451851181892009-01-12T02:52:00.000-08:002010-03-02T16:57:39.367-08:00Corwin Simmons Rock Miniguide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjINHLcvDGxX7q8_WN6UtAZzl8ODDp-yGm5HlCiDxjFStZb7XDGVT3ZluVrMaKKaHR_apq2K8Y0VhMLv3Vq6eBH1IDO6likEhtUdQ0BxVJFBkTlD5o_L1oEgdJXTGiE9MO-HmvoAuZR1rTL/s1600-h/SESlab-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjINHLcvDGxX7q8_WN6UtAZzl8ODDp-yGm5HlCiDxjFStZb7XDGVT3ZluVrMaKKaHR_apq2K8Y0VhMLv3Vq6eBH1IDO6likEhtUdQ0BxVJFBkTlD5o_L1oEgdJXTGiE9MO-HmvoAuZR1rTL/s400/SESlab-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdWfkSAOvqUvqCssicFkt-cc3bcso0HQzhH5O0BD5FLMLK2Gw4plaZVyMvIZT4Y-pGlLkqw9uMeEHxat3HC3-5Hk4FVhyGCEiQf2-fm9SPV8hvCbpJCYPGZXVKrkitkkOw6Ah7uBbc7O6g/s1600-h/NorthSide-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdWfkSAOvqUvqCssicFkt-cc3bcso0HQzhH5O0BD5FLMLK2Gw4plaZVyMvIZT4Y-pGlLkqw9uMeEHxat3HC3-5Hk4FVhyGCEiQf2-fm9SPV8hvCbpJCYPGZXVKrkitkkOw6Ah7uBbc7O6g/s400/NorthSide-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbCCef-5oZKiGvqm-S9xWgXKqLH0WtZSobActeK96Y-Q1TEEasRA1sbZpEStWrR2Yk2FizVVNPm5Jw5wOExkfNyYaNPzZjq99tU04LF8qnQ9dZgvaZpdg8M5tw66k0hyixuA_gCIUCXpxI/s1600-h/SWSide-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbCCef-5oZKiGvqm-S9xWgXKqLH0WtZSobActeK96Y-Q1TEEasRA1sbZpEStWrR2Yk2FizVVNPm5Jw5wOExkfNyYaNPzZjq99tU04LF8qnQ9dZgvaZpdg8M5tw66k0hyixuA_gCIUCXpxI/s400/SWSide-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;">Just down the road from Capstan Rock, Corwin Simmons Rock has 60 years of history, yet it is largely forgotten for good reasons. For example, there's poor rock quality where the best line would be and it is largely slabtastic and/or inundated with lichen elsewhere. One line is fun, clean and really worth doing (#4), but it's only V1 and there's no good way to get down off the top, so you'll probably end up downclimbing and jumping like I did. There is one presumably undone line that looks doable and is pretty, but it's ~30 feet tall and the rock quality is suspect AT BEST. </span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Where:</span></b><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Again, the easiest of directions. Corwin Simmons Rock has its own little pullout/parking area. Head up Flagstaff Road and park 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at the large formation on the left at the bend in the road just before the Capstan Rock pullout. For your reference, the parking area for Corwin Simmons Rock is about 50 yards before the parking area for Capstan Rock, Cloud Shadow Wall, Notlim Boulder, etc. Good luck with this one!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-size: small;">1. East Overhang V1 X ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Climb the center of the east slab to an overhang, pull the bulge on small holds and top it out. Lichen-covered, death-defying and virtually forgotten.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-size: small;">2. East Slab VB X ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Similar to East Overhang, without the little overhang. Ascend the right side of the east slab to the top. Enjoy the lichen and pine straw.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-size: small;">3. North Face V2 ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">This thin problem that appears to have been swallowed by the tree. Battle through the branches and other debris to get on this thin line.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-size: small;">4. Northwest Corner V1 ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s *</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Right of the tree, ascend pebbles and edges up a corner to a interesting friction move up high. Good, but be prepared to descend by downclimbing once you're on top.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-size: small;">5. Project V? X</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Start on disintigrating crimps and attain an obvious seam. Follow the seam to the top and sort out the finish. I strongly recommend vigorous cleaning and rehearsal on toprope, although I did not see any easy ways to set up a toprope. Yard on every hold and fully weight every possible foothold. Good rock may reside underneath, but the outer surface of most of the rock on this side of the block is friable, chossy and generally disconcerting. The topout is innundated with lichen too.</span></span></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-38069423072693172152008-11-28T08:50:00.000-08:002011-02-26T11:16:20.847-08:00Capstan Rock Miniguide<div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJsyXbZVeXvd1Vbuq9qrBT-ANdsIfl-JMvhBfyiFv6PnLUusfakRkq2eZ6YyukuDA3ZwJ1Dp3BGfmqJ7XX2tCI6I_MXIJ_j1TJh8wNT8o5F92mhodnXosLWwj0c1btrLJHUFUOFr92qOCo/s1600-h/CapstanSE-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJsyXbZVeXvd1Vbuq9qrBT-ANdsIfl-JMvhBfyiFv6PnLUusfakRkq2eZ6YyukuDA3ZwJ1Dp3BGfmqJ7XX2tCI6I_MXIJ_j1TJh8wNT8o5F92mhodnXosLWwj0c1btrLJHUFUOFr92qOCo/s400/CapstanSE-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-UlKzHdLlTfQgH3Rpg9dPTK6zt01VrtuZ_WXss5usLUOyqhMlywLebz8LkEstuY8w9TJ1JAJ2gzZ_1cevsj6nWhoayvkrR-g6ywsE6Tlpxt1zFeXmCAEMqYRRggxJFxcMo4eV-VFr-p4/s1600-h/CapstanSW-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-UlKzHdLlTfQgH3Rpg9dPTK6zt01VrtuZ_WXss5usLUOyqhMlywLebz8LkEstuY8w9TJ1JAJ2gzZ_1cevsj6nWhoayvkrR-g6ywsE6Tlpxt1zFeXmCAEMqYRRggxJFxcMo4eV-VFr-p4/s400/CapstanSW-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFJE9LcOcJMvqj7hhUtP3NcXQWTTon50aYXxmCVzA1upy9lOa88kohxaUnqPvQxYAk5Gag3VP54l4hcu_-PZHL48Vbhy1lSiMq4CvYfzBRfc3Eop_EovwbqzfTZN6QkhN7VoO-e_ZF5yMM/s1600-h/CapstanN-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFJE9LcOcJMvqj7hhUtP3NcXQWTTon50aYXxmCVzA1upy9lOa88kohxaUnqPvQxYAk5Gag3VP54l4hcu_-PZHL48Vbhy1lSiMq4CvYfzBRfc3Eop_EovwbqzfTZN6QkhN7VoO-e_ZF5yMM/s400/CapstanN-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9JZZRHfGsM8qrYDRPH5D7e8zL8k_axySNSNoIgrGJ5TjnaJKIBca0gNZsVEBr-AhHb6kKGBw-sxZdiL8OYV4mDKygQ1G4-OFUsa_nMQqyrJJobKdLVHHssXKuePku0Gj3g0XE2BJohF6U/s1600-h/CapstanE-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9JZZRHfGsM8qrYDRPH5D7e8zL8k_axySNSNoIgrGJ5TjnaJKIBca0gNZsVEBr-AhHb6kKGBw-sxZdiL8OYV4mDKygQ1G4-OFUsa_nMQqyrJJobKdLVHHssXKuePku0Gj3g0XE2BJohF6U/s400/CapstanE-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZJKX-9NUnCV2mG17cIgGSGVP9NwL5476xok3UzGq6jevPDvvraNloODBxg8zYlUKlnYid6bsbYmw0PGWsWtOFMQ_aj6fOm0kTcuJP26njTOBiLyH-iLgaLpX0n8hG1XOwk6LuFDz8pdl/s1600-h/HairpinBoulder-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZJKX-9NUnCV2mG17cIgGSGVP9NwL5476xok3UzGq6jevPDvvraNloODBxg8zYlUKlnYid6bsbYmw0PGWsWtOFMQ_aj6fOm0kTcuJP26njTOBiLyH-iLgaLpX0n8hG1XOwk6LuFDz8pdl/s400/HairpinBoulder-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Capstan Rock is Flagstaff Mountain's most obvious bouldering spot, as it sits in the middle of a hairpin turn in clear view from the road on both sides. Among the problems found here are a number of fine highballs and one of Jim Holloway's best boulder problems and one of the Vermin standards for V7, Just Right. Drivers heading up and down the mountain have been slowing down here and gawking at boulderers for decades. The last photo is of a boulder I've christened the Hairpin Boulder, for lack of any other name. It lies a little closer to the hairpin turn than Capstan Rock and has a couple moderate challenges. <b><span style="color: yellow;">Where:</span></b> These are the easiest of directions. Head up Flagstaff Road and park at the tall free-standing monolith on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge. The parking here can get crowded on perfect afternoons/evenings, so park respectfully, leaving room so others can squeeze in. Lots of other areas including Rear-End Rock, Pedestal Boulder, Cloud Shadow Wall, Cloud Shadow's Alcove, Cloud Shadow's Other Side, The Dark Side, Nook's Rock, Road Sign Rock, Brown Glass Wall, the Notlim Boulder and the Unmentionables are ALL almost always accessed from this parking.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: red;">CAPSTAN ROCK</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">1. The Trough V4/5 ... FA: Dave Rearick, 1961 *</span><br />
From a LH sidepull edge and RH pinch, pull on and go LH to the disintegrating edges at the lip, reset and throw RH for the jug at the bottom of the trough. Finish by pulling up into an undercling cobble and a comfortable stance. In the 10 years I've been climbing on Flagstaff, this problem has gone from V2 to V4/5, as the holds at the lip keep getting smaller and smaller. Historically, this problem has been called V0, so maybe the edges were even bigger in the distant past. <span style="color: red;">DOWNCLIMB NOTE:</span> To downclimb any of #1-8 and #10-12, head down to the undercling cobble at the top of #1 and either jump to the pads or make a couple of sketchy moves down and right onto the boulder leaning up against the east face of Capstan Rock. Another option, although few do this, is to pull the bulge at the very top of the seam, climb to the top of the boulder and descend the north face to the road.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">2. Daydreamer V8/9 ... FA: Xander Oxman, 2000/1 *</span><br />
Formerly V8, the edges at the lip have disintegrate quite a bit. From the same start as #1, go LH to the disintegrating edges at the lip, match and slide left into the topout for #6.</span> See downclimb info under #1.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">3. The Trough Direct V8 sds ... FA: Xander Oxman, 2000/1</span><br />
Begin from a LOW sds, RH on the large cobble and LH on a small sidepull or in a small mono. Work your way through a perplexing, painful and powerful sequence until you can finish up #1.</span> See downclimb info under #1.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">4. Daydreamer Direct V9/10 sds ... FA: Xander Oxman, 2000/1</span><br />
The sds to #2. From the sds using the same holds as #3, do the perplexing, painful and powerful sequence to the broken edges at the lip, match, then slide left to finish with #6. Formerly considered V10, Jonathan Siegrist repeated this line in 2009 and suggested V9 in spite of the edges that have disintegrated off the upper lip that were useful in moving left into #6.</span> See downclimb info under #1.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">5. Just Wrong V9 ... FA: Chris Hill, early 1990’s</span><br />
Begin with the same starting holds as #6a, but your first move is a bewilderingly huge LH crossover to the high pocket. Finish with #6 and #7.</span> See downclimb info under #1.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">6a&b. Just Right V7 (a) / V9/10 (b) ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1973 *</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Climb this classic and obvious line up the right side of the South Face. The standard start (a) involves a cheatstone or stacked pads. Get the best part of two opposing crimps, get your feet on, bump your LH up to a funky grip, reset your feet and go big with your RH to the large sloping pocket. From there, several exit sequences exist, but the idea is to pull the bulge up top, making a long reach straight back to the sloping trough. For the harder start (b), begin without a cheatstone and reach high into the opposing edges slightly below the true start for #6a. Being tall will help and may make this easier. Shorter folks will have to at least stack pads until they can reach the lower start, as it is only a few inches lower for the RH than the cheaterstone start.</span> See downclimb info under #1.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">7. Direct Just Right V? sds ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1990's</span><br />
Formerly V9, this one is thought to have had only two ascents (Skip and Ben Moon) before one or two good edges above the slopey rail sheared off in the mid 1990's. The sds has gone unrepeated since. I'm throwing down the gauntlet based on feedback from several climbers ... this will be the hardest up problem on the mountain when it goes again and a couple of the BIG names are close. Begin from a sds on the large obvious angled shelf 3 feet off the ground or down in the even lower sidepull undercling in the hole slightly to the left. From the sloping shelf, use bad edges and to span the distance up and into #6. All the moves have been done by a couple of different folks, so it's just a matter of linkage, good conditions and time. </span>See downclimb info under #1.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">8. So Wrong V8 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 2000 *</span><br />
Except for the start, this problem is every bit as good as #6. The original start involves a big jumpstart to matching edges on the left side of #6. The alternative start is to do the first move of #6 and match it up. After that, the next couple holds are decent, then move left using a small LH edge in a seam and a high committing RF heel-hook to do a RH crossover up to the high fin. It's not over until you've reached the seam at 25 feet, several feet left of the top of #6. Bring lots of pads.</span> See downclimb info under #1.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">9. Diverse Traverse V5/6 sds ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Start matched on the angled shelf at the base of #5-7, move through underclings, then battle past the crack all the way into #15. A little tweaky passing #12.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">10. The Capstan Dyno AKA The Direct South Overhang V6 ... FA: Pat Ament 1968/9 *</span><br />
From South Overhang’s starting pockets, maybe use the pebble as an intermediate to throw up and right to a sloping dish. Continue straight up to join #11 and #12 and go to the top of the seam.</span> See downclimb info under #1.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">11. South Overhang V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968</span><br />
From the pockets just right of #12, reach/slap up to edges just right of the crack, joining the crack higher up for the finish.</span> See downclimb info under #1.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">12. South Crack V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, early 1960’s *</span><br />
Use severely polished feet to start up the pin-scarred finger crack. Tall, but the crux is the first few moves.</span> See downclimb info under #1.<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;"><i> </i></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;"><i>Variation #1 - South Crack Sit V5 sds:</i></span> Begin from a sds, in underclings in the hole down and to the right and - without using the pockets at the base of #10 and #11 - reach for and establish in the crack and finish #12.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">13. Sarabande V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5 *</span><br />
Start up #12, the pockets just to the left or a combination of both. After ~10 feet, trend slightly left up a system of pockets and rails for 25+ more feet to the top where #14 ends. This one does not get a lot of traffic, so your ability to find the easiest and safest path to the top will be tested.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> With long slings wrapped around a weird feature up top, it’s possible to set up a toprope.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">14. West Face V1 X ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
Pockets and polished edges take you up this 35+ footer. Reaches are necessary, but it’s all there. With long slings wrapped around a weird feature up top, it’s possible to set up a toprope to work it out.<br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">15. Northwest Edges V3 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Ascend thin edges up to the sloping topout maneuvers. So good.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">16. Northwest Traverse V2 ... FA: Unknown</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Traverse up and left across edges to a lock-off move to the obvious large pebble around the corner, then pull around and establish on the face.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">17. Northeast Mantel V0 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Right next to the road. From a stand start at a sloping shelf on the far left of the north face, surf up and right across the shelf to the obvious mantel ledge and fight your way up there.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">18. There Will Be Car Wrecks V7/8 sds ... FA: Anson Whitmer, 2009</span><br />
Begin from a sds down low with your RH in the pocket and LH out left on one of a couple bad sidepull slopers. Creative footwork will allow you to make a violent move up with your LH to the lip. Once you've matched here, slide right to the sweet spot and mantel onto the ledge per #17. Watch out for cars, seriously.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">19. Northeast Corner V4 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
From a good undercling a couple feet left of the northeast corner, move up to small edges and numerous pebbles that allow one to pull over.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">20. East Face, Far Right Side V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968</span><br />
The name for this scary problem is a misnomer. Start atop the talus boulder leaning against the east face and the slabby pebbly face which faces southeast to the top.<br />
<span style="color: red;">HAIRPIN BOULDER</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">21. Hairpin Left V0 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Climb straight up to the ledge using an edge or two and several good pockets.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">22. Hairpin Right V1 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
Head up the short dihedral to the lip, then trend right to topout.</span></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-18256986651899773742008-11-03T22:32:00.000-08:002010-03-04T18:50:51.813-08:00Unmentionables Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuXeLH6nZhBByfxqr-4PPm8icL8hm31MbNqQSe6tcjezA4T1TgYzsfhx8f5NQUe65YxwCgt0zJx1P35HR0bB0E7iNAbUXLXRQtn4Jw3yEY_Qm-hq-MJ1dvdpAKUfpbJ7ZXTs7RCQvt2QYo/s1600-h/UnmentionableBlockSEFace-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuXeLH6nZhBByfxqr-4PPm8icL8hm31MbNqQSe6tcjezA4T1TgYzsfhx8f5NQUe65YxwCgt0zJx1P35HR0bB0E7iNAbUXLXRQtn4Jw3yEY_Qm-hq-MJ1dvdpAKUfpbJ7ZXTs7RCQvt2QYo/s400/UnmentionableBlockSEFace-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOpng3IK-N8dfwkCKUJ-yU4MsGHYhy0S07ib3RhVjgiVRxQMo9s_03yofAmoRDKYtKgIjj3Zw2Wz-3a7LZIbqPazb70CFKedpvJmhE6es_FoNbJ8jcYwchkX206-FTTSclHtOECHOl7hMx/s1600-h/UnmentionableBlockNFace-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOpng3IK-N8dfwkCKUJ-yU4MsGHYhy0S07ib3RhVjgiVRxQMo9s_03yofAmoRDKYtKgIjj3Zw2Wz-3a7LZIbqPazb70CFKedpvJmhE6es_FoNbJ8jcYwchkX206-FTTSclHtOECHOl7hMx/s400/UnmentionableBlockNFace-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzcXtmi_3Sn7av7hQbQ_W6ljoFr0EEBJWxlxlBwqSwKsz7LBfPEQC2wrSmTiAoFoF8TLs76D1Inb7a1Lns0PZaPLS91TxZQhGsjDxGtr71nwRS_ZjZq8iu5df-XIlXPHucMraR7nU1m-8u/s1600-h/BonzaiBlock-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzcXtmi_3Sn7av7hQbQ_W6ljoFr0EEBJWxlxlBwqSwKsz7LBfPEQC2wrSmTiAoFoF8TLs76D1Inb7a1Lns0PZaPLS91TxZQhGsjDxGtr71nwRS_ZjZq8iu5df-XIlXPHucMraR7nU1m-8u/s400/BonzaiBlock-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtOSEJITjSBBsKvjoV7qGUNJ3aFrca3tDSj6hYIR7th3bs9RvX5-IaMj5sXI94m6zbAhv7zqxaNaIVt73TDOuG6TZdlIp9giLbiTRu0vFffqFA4XNHLJPbKdjVhCsc5NLad9KE0zJ7a0Jv/s1600-h/OvertonFin-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtOSEJITjSBBsKvjoV7qGUNJ3aFrca3tDSj6hYIR7th3bs9RvX5-IaMj5sXI94m6zbAhv7zqxaNaIVt73TDOuG6TZdlIp9giLbiTRu0vFffqFA4XNHLJPbKdjVhCsc5NLad9KE0zJ7a0Jv/s400/OvertonFin-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoxcjbpYk7KGsVIptg9OyP7NlRwSqytQ-OFfsAnHX3twGwe-WXcS2oOW_lDVzflvCqTfPPU4ktiUxiq3Y3kouhsuxQkImmO4k7BKLyE9R_kr_k2tWFHjdQe-41AWwQqpX72DAWK9jlW96k/s1600-h/Pear-ShapedBlock-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoxcjbpYk7KGsVIptg9OyP7NlRwSqytQ-OFfsAnHX3twGwe-WXcS2oOW_lDVzflvCqTfPPU4ktiUxiq3Y3kouhsuxQkImmO4k7BKLyE9R_kr_k2tWFHjdQe-41AWwQqpX72DAWK9jlW96k/s400/Pear-ShapedBlock-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgHdvzJKgrO1fRKJwYCyGUpxDMzbV0dMEWCeoqZTzJ6ZlIKpFcL1uuXzVQg2SDUMComVk630zbJUNR8LFo7oOjBNQJf0-24uOY1i6Hl-sBwlaInvejJ7mqet-3BQ0EN5nbGOieWtxRFf1c/s1600-h/UnmentionableAlcove1-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgHdvzJKgrO1fRKJwYCyGUpxDMzbV0dMEWCeoqZTzJ6ZlIKpFcL1uuXzVQg2SDUMComVk630zbJUNR8LFo7oOjBNQJf0-24uOY1i6Hl-sBwlaInvejJ7mqet-3BQ0EN5nbGOieWtxRFf1c/s400/UnmentionableAlcove1-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_H21fkNjYVzZnvYaJEALDwCL10VOz1nPwuTD79eWdhnR0tz0Ckvm5zdUWwXuJtS373XeNvqbmHcx0tcUT5z12D2COGky5WPUtfGxMGc7Kk10fv_cLeqLJgfqOkynxcSzw4rlLCmKtjH45/s1600-h/UnmentionableAlcove2-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_H21fkNjYVzZnvYaJEALDwCL10VOz1nPwuTD79eWdhnR0tz0Ckvm5zdUWwXuJtS373XeNvqbmHcx0tcUT5z12D2COGky5WPUtfGxMGc7Kk10fv_cLeqLJgfqOkynxcSzw4rlLCmKtjH45/s400/UnmentionableAlcove2-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Unmentionables refers to previously undocumented and obscure blocks that reside between Road Sign Rock and the Backside of the Amphitheater. There are no gems, although there are certainly problems of dubious quality on dubious rock. There is also nothing hard here, as the rock quality does not make it amenable to hard problems. The one not-quite-redeeming quality is that if you check it out, you will have the place to yourself. A few of these obscure problems are worth checking out if you don't mind dicey rock quality. </span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the stairs to Capstan Rock, then continue up the hill passing the Capstan on your right. Cross the road passing Road Sign Rock on the right. Where the faint footpath takes off downhill towards the Notlim Boulder and Hollow's Way, another faint trail will head up an initially gentle hill to the west to two sets of boulders. You will reach the first cluster of climbable boulders and 5 problems after 50 to 75 yards. To reach the second cluster of boulders and 6 more problems, head straight uphill up a steep and loose wash just after the Bonzai Boulder. After 75 yards and after passing lots of worthless choss on the right, you will come to a small platform. One problem is up and left, while 5 more are off to the right.</span></span></div><div><div><div><div><div align="justify"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">UNMENTIONABLES BLOCK</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">1. Unmentionables Warmup VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A couple easy moves straight up and you'll be on top. Problems #2-4 are on the north or downhill side of this boulder.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">2. Fingerlock Catfight V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From good edges on the northeast corner, a hard move gets you to an undercling fingerlock pocket. Now pull the bulge and go to the top.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">3. Lucky Strike V3/4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start 10 feet right of #2 and steer up and slightly left from stance to stance up the bulging slab to the top. Sketchy, until the last bit.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">4. Paris-Roubaix V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001 *</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Oh the cobblestones! A couple feet right of #3, ascend cobbles and pebbles up this 25 foot grooved slab with committing moves up high.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">BONZAI BOULDER</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">5. Bonzai Bulge V0 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Just north of the faint footpath, pull the northeast-facing bulge up onto a slab. Avoid the small bonsai tree that may still reside a few feet to the left.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">PEAR BOULDER</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">6. Pear-Shaped Women V5/6 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">When you arrive at the top of the steep hill and the second cluster of boulders, look to your left and 20 yards away is this lowball north-facing overhang. Begin from a sds on an obvious RH hold and any of 3 LH holds that are within reach, the lowest of which provides the stiffest challenge. Pull up and over the bulge.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">OVERTON FIN</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">7. Overton Fin V1 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">When you reach the top of the steep hill, look right and you'll see this diminutive little piece of stone under a chossy spire. Begin from a sds and surf left across this short fin of good rock and pull over on jugs.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">UNMENTIONABLES ALCOVE</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">8a&b. American Spirit V2 (a) / V4 (b) ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Continue past #7 around and into the alcove for #8-11. Moss and lichen are trying to reclaim this one. Right of #9, ascend a bulge and slab from the obvious LH sidepull and RH jug (a). Descend off to the right from the slab. You can opt to up the grade to V4 if you start RH on the cobble (b).</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">9a&b. Spooky V2 (a) / V4 (b) ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Opposite #10, ascend the arête right of the chimney from a head-high start (a). Pull over onto the slab and head for the top. You can again opt to up the grade to V4 if you start a move lower slightly to the right (b).</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">10. Seeing Ghosts V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Opposite #9, ascend the left side of the chimney for 16 feet to the sloping topout. The rock quality at the bottom is horrid, but it gets much better the higher you get and its all worth it..</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">11. The Hand of Man V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001</span> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The name comes from an obvious handprint left by someone years after this problem was established. Start low and left on crimps and trend up and right to an unsatisfying finish below a crumbly headwall guarding the top. I suspect one could easily extend this problem by bringing stickbrushes and aggressively cleaning the topout before working it out.</span></span></div></div></div></div></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-25701328290206442892008-10-12T01:40:00.000-07:002010-04-06T00:19:28.551-07:00Road Sign Rock & Brown Glass Wall Miniguide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifqpOl-VKWI7qdwaLk7QaujdYDNdcc9l0gcKnjdldxaeBQDcgWVC0Pr-_q87bBSgQ2ucJihkMs45r7e2WjIujIeJ-CfgpSwMxFEZJpwPpGuC74nkkN0i0B-p5yaiw5kAUXWenw4OmvWvxL/s1600-h/RoadSignSouth-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifqpOl-VKWI7qdwaLk7QaujdYDNdcc9l0gcKnjdldxaeBQDcgWVC0Pr-_q87bBSgQ2ucJihkMs45r7e2WjIujIeJ-CfgpSwMxFEZJpwPpGuC74nkkN0i0B-p5yaiw5kAUXWenw4OmvWvxL/s320/RoadSignSouth-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ13kq0ZLo1nD2i1pU2MBqk-B8YsCK_jqNhoC7PxCq7xt9kneCBktsvrKgB3qx49VziMV3bVW6Fe5RZiUUVTC_WyVRlwWBy-yas6YChbmps8m6oE-mJHmsSLmFR03aE3mfT8NDCJw4To4Q/s1600-h/RoadSignNorth-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ13kq0ZLo1nD2i1pU2MBqk-B8YsCK_jqNhoC7PxCq7xt9kneCBktsvrKgB3qx49VziMV3bVW6Fe5RZiUUVTC_WyVRlwWBy-yas6YChbmps8m6oE-mJHmsSLmFR03aE3mfT8NDCJw4To4Q/s320/RoadSignNorth-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimq4Nq_CzEVPGUy12QxHevoH_2sIUBqBS1B5WVHx9rdgcqTWo7grqh5DyjYuxb5wugsO_FmX2PjayEbBF-PRbpByloN8fWyAO6REgIWgqvUa7fZXO2Rwqbwq-Quee8z9cuK_gvuz9tJGrK/s1600-h/BrownGlassProw-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimq4Nq_CzEVPGUy12QxHevoH_2sIUBqBS1B5WVHx9rdgcqTWo7grqh5DyjYuxb5wugsO_FmX2PjayEbBF-PRbpByloN8fWyAO6REgIWgqvUa7fZXO2Rwqbwq-Quee8z9cuK_gvuz9tJGrK/s400/BrownGlassProw-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMIEugnWccpVdcWFAEapN125ozeyfhhRDt0tw8IVcU8dDGFJk19Tz-LXd0I17CxdeeVLP3gBTCa3nNICTQc4z67Euci7Mg1AsKRRZocQNQXQRdbyVFziEeC_R4JQHXK3whF9VIBJNjFPHw/s1600-h/BrownGlassOverhang-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMIEugnWccpVdcWFAEapN125ozeyfhhRDt0tw8IVcU8dDGFJk19Tz-LXd0I17CxdeeVLP3gBTCa3nNICTQc4z67Euci7Mg1AsKRRZocQNQXQRdbyVFziEeC_R4JQHXK3whF9VIBJNjFPHw/s400/BrownGlassOverhang-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJvjDQDXwuKpYNNh1cpMHSHqhI0GVptpiW2QziDPoNikqhHv7P_YYCxi-v48D8w2-FnXihFXJzaCKwoMqWh9mseH9u8oiJR2Hde0A_qcng_ColO6eFPDxOTHjgoYmT5r6JYOtFFRzTPbH_/s1600-h/BrownGlassRight-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJvjDQDXwuKpYNNh1cpMHSHqhI0GVptpiW2QziDPoNikqhHv7P_YYCxi-v48D8w2-FnXihFXJzaCKwoMqWh9mseH9u8oiJR2Hde0A_qcng_ColO6eFPDxOTHjgoYmT5r6JYOtFFRzTPbH_/s400/BrownGlassRight-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj1BRU5s1iIynUERJZMYBZW5pTzeSP6JCfROn5kpuUqKlgy7KmEGTykjrCvpDkkoXSUpO7fe0CH-xn6eXusTO4yBxtldtB1lVBaGDp86Q9NBHj7bKFOL9QfJ3YZPasBinlZeW_YxopwljG/s1600-h/BrownGlassLeft-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj1BRU5s1iIynUERJZMYBZW5pTzeSP6JCfROn5kpuUqKlgy7KmEGTykjrCvpDkkoXSUpO7fe0CH-xn6eXusTO4yBxtldtB1lVBaGDp86Q9NBHj7bKFOL9QfJ3YZPasBinlZeW_YxopwljG/s400/BrownGlassLeft-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Road Sign Rock hosts a selection of lowball problems, whereas the Brown Glass Wall is a good place to do some moderate highballin', occasionally with an X rating. A few problems have been added to the historical repertoire of problems that other guidebooks have covered, so check them out. </span></span><strong><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></span></strong><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the stairs to Capstan Rock, then walk up a hill passing the Capstan on your right. Cross the road and you will be confronted with the obvious Road Sign Rock with the OBVIOUS drilled pockets just off the road. Around the back side of this boulder on the right is the beginnings on what has become known as the Brown Glass Wall which continues down the hill for an additional 30 yards. Just beyond this is the Notlim Boulder and the classic everyone has to try Hollow's Way.</span></span></div><div><div><div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">ROAD SIGN ROCK</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div><div><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">1. East Bulge V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1960’s</span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start right next to the road on two head-high slopers. Heel-hook the top, bump to thin pebbly edges and fight your way up top.</span></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">2. Road Sign Right V3 sds ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From a sds using only the rightmost drilled 2” pocket, move up to the good edge and pebble and top out.</span></span></div><div><div><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">3. Road Sign Traverse V4 sds ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1980’s</span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From the same sds as #4 on the leftmost drilled 2” pocket, traverse right across all four drilled pockets, then find a way to pull up on top. Interesting, yet tricky and painful. Consider taping up a couple of your digits once you figure out which ones need it.</span></span></div><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">4. Road Sign Left V1 sds ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From a sds using only the leftmost drilled 2” pocket, pop up to the good edge at the lip and pull over.</span></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">5. Northwestern Overhang V2 sds ... FA: Pat Ament, 1960’s</span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, use small edges and pebbles and good feet to pull straight up and over around the corner to the right from the sloping rail. The feet are really good which makes up for the sparsity and size of the features for the hands.</span></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">6. North Overhang Direct V6 sds ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, bump to the sloper rail. As soon as you are on the rail, topout straight up by going RH to the small flat pebble all by itself in the middle of the bulge. Work your feet and go LH to either of two slopey lumps directly above the pebble and battle your way up top. A nice problem that you will have to work for, but a bit contrived to be worthy of a star.</span></span></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">7. North Overhang Traverse V3/4 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, bump to and slide left along the sloper rail until you reach several small finger divots and finish up #9.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">8. Full North Overhang Traverse V6 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, bump to and slide left along the sloper rail. Stay low and continue further left than #7 via more heel-hooks, body tension and long reaches to topout with #10.</span></span></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">9. North Mantel V1 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Not quite a sds, start low on finger divots and edges just left of the well-chalked rail. Heel-hook and make a long mantel up to either of two large pebbles and finish up and over.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">10. North Face VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Left of #9, start on good edges above a small boulder to do a move to the lip and pull up into the branches.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">11. Northeast Bulge V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1960’s</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start a few feet right of #1 at the bottom of a good layaway rail that arches upward. Throw a heel and pull yourself up top. Harder than it looks.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">BROWN GLASS WALL</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">12. Mopping Up V1 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Start at the base of a gash about 15 feet right of #s 13 & 14. The gash narrows to a thin seam after a few feet, but edges will get you to the top where a jug awaits.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">13. Bucket Right V1 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From the first juggy flake on the prow, steer right around the corner up edges. Continue to the top past edges and knobs to a large dish/hueco up top. Airy and fun.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">14. Bucket V4 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975 *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Climb juggy flakes up the west face of the leaning prow up to a slopey beachball ledge. From there, do a scary and committing reach or throw to the very top of the prow above what is certainly a no-fall landing. Fun until the end and then extremely committing. Game on!</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">15. Detached Bulge V0 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Hand-traverse the detached right-arching ledge system up and right and pull over. Pray the entire bulge doesn’t detach any further while you're on it.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">16. Brown Glass Overhang V6/7 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2002 *</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Before the Trash Bash Era, hundreds of broken bottles resided at this problem's base. They're all gone now and all that remains is this really good problem. Begin from a sds matched on the sloping shelf down low on the arête and bump your way up bad holds down low on the arête. The difficulties mercifully come early, then you slide right and finish straight up. As of 2009, holds down low have broken twice, making it a bit burlier than it once was.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">17. Briggs’ Bridges V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Climb pebbles and edges up the 20'+ rounded arête on the right. Bring numerous pads to protect you from the exposed leg- and ankle-breaking roots below and spotters to protect you from the mellon-splattering blocks behind them. A better idea is not to fall.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">18. Fear on Layaway V4 X ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2003</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start up mostly pebbles with #19. Then use the LH layaway just right of the good flakes with your LH to move right up the face over to topout with #17. As yet, only done after extensive cleaning and toprope rehearsal. It's very insecure up there and the fall is the same as #17, so don't blow it!</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">19. Right Side V1 X ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Start up mostly pebbles on the slabby shield down low, then pull a small roof via some good flakes and go up and left to the top. Quite possibly the best highball V1 on the mountain ... actually ... #22 may be better!</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">20. Right V V0 X ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">After low-angled and fun face climbing on jugs with #21, use huge right-arching edges to reach for holds over the top and pull over. It's funky and committing up there in spite of the moderate grade.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">21. Left V V2 X ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">After low-angled and fun face climbing on jugs with #20, climb left out the deep gash that allows for a solid jam or two as you move up and left to better holds at the topout.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">22. Back Extension V1 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5 *</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
On the left side of the wall, climb jugs and low-angled rock to the jug-haul roof just left of the topout for #21. Awesome!</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">23. Meddling Blocks Traverse V3/4 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start matched on the jug above the left end of the </span></span><em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">meddling blocks</span></span></em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">. Make a long RH reach to a jug rail and continue up and right without dabbing on the blocks. Once your established on the arête, cruise up it to the top.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">24. Stem Rise V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Stem off of the top of left side of the meddling boulder behind you on #23 to establish up on the face just left of #23. Now you are faced with a 30' (maybe taller), lichen-infested and somewhat chossy slab that has probably only seen a couple of ascents. Climb the line of least resistance past some obvious features to the top. When I repeated it a few years ago, I was not a happy camper up there, as I made no efforts to preclean it. <span style="color: yellow;"><em>Variation - Project V?:</em></span> A direct and proper start to #24 that would start at the jug seems feasible ... assuming you are interested in doing the rest of this committing and dirty highball.</span></span></div></div></div></div></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-15484098036263067342008-09-11T00:11:00.000-07:002010-03-20T01:37:55.671-07:00Cloud Shadow Wall Miniguide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoXbkLpr2yY51rEiAIjSqG4on4VqapzM_eIQ9sOAyaCKGkPm5lYAk-td3advwAX2yJCaG9Wz6zxo7MNwbZTq1plQ5_IJVcowpAajIBxqeJg3nO2Ga9aUYbS5ZDf99j0t6f0K3LcoFBObky/s1600-h/CSWFarLeft-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ps="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoXbkLpr2yY51rEiAIjSqG4on4VqapzM_eIQ9sOAyaCKGkPm5lYAk-td3advwAX2yJCaG9Wz6zxo7MNwbZTq1plQ5_IJVcowpAajIBxqeJg3nO2Ga9aUYbS5ZDf99j0t6f0K3LcoFBObky/s400/CSWFarLeft-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5OjSHiAeEFBELn1EbvdUoPsj9pBuoYONKMFLVl1bSOx5UT_BjyGirYJbl1V1unCTPJ3a-5NKASIp1hQDRQHZmAIdGqtMl8WUMBrEb3Eg9hw2lj6z0PzpGRbfaxZNOoK75NQx6whryqePs/s1600-h/CSWRightTraverses-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ps="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5OjSHiAeEFBELn1EbvdUoPsj9pBuoYONKMFLVl1bSOx5UT_BjyGirYJbl1V1unCTPJ3a-5NKASIp1hQDRQHZmAIdGqtMl8WUMBrEb3Eg9hw2lj6z0PzpGRbfaxZNOoK75NQx6whryqePs/s400/CSWRightTraverses-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV-wX7nliMnCtKTXJuXxvuJg6L0fWW5G3YCM7ERORzKGNurlvjQ9LDFSYJNZWBAyGhrAkB3DC8irPEAmDL6nAGgZSMGHE1w3TaUrQHuB5Djzc7J42QJG2sZu0IARLjCpU9bWn2-eWzreA-/s1600-h/CSWFarRight-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ps="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV-wX7nliMnCtKTXJuXxvuJg6L0fWW5G3YCM7ERORzKGNurlvjQ9LDFSYJNZWBAyGhrAkB3DC8irPEAmDL6nAGgZSMGHE1w3TaUrQHuB5Djzc7J42QJG2sZu0IARLjCpU9bWn2-eWzreA-/s400/CSWFarRight-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Problems have been concocted all over the expansive length of the Cloud Shadow Wall. A few are independent and obvious. Many are contrived in one way, shape or form, but the rock quality is excellent so that even the contrived problems provide interesting and worthwhile challenges. This wall is often crowded, particularly in the afternoon, due to an abundance of traverses, moderate problems and the full sun that the wall receives every afternoon. There are problems of all grades between VB and V12, including one of Jim Holloway's "Big Three," Trice, the world's first V12 and still the hardest up-problem on Flagstaff Mountain. By my count, Trice saw 6 repeats between November 2007 and March 2008 on the heels of Andy Mann's Climbing Magazine article on Jim Holloway in late 2007. In late 2008, Alex Puccio nabbed the first female ascent. All of this is borderline shocking, as it sat unrepeated for 32 years. Props must go to both Carlo Traversi and Jamie Emerson for "reopening" the problem on the same day in November 2007. </span></span><b><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach Cloud Shadow Wall is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to the magestic Cloud Shadow Wall.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">1. Hagan’s Alcove V1 ... FA: Paul Hagan, 1969</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
There are lots of ways to start this one (from the right/from the left/sit-start). Once you're standing on the right-leaning ramp, head straight up the bulging face to the top using edges, pebbles and a thin pocket or two.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">2. Launching Pad V3/4 ... FA: John Baldwin, 1986 </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
This problem has been the subject of some confusion over the years due to a missing pebble that broke off in the 1990's. In 2008, the pebble was restored to its original condition. Reach high to pissy side-by-side edges and/or the restored whitish-pink pebble if you can reach it. Perch on the right side of the right-leaning ramp and once established on the whitish-pink pebble, get your RF up on a small edge and make a move with the quickness up and right with your RH to an edge behind another pebble steering away from #1. From there, head directly to the top.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">3. Soon to be Souvenir V8 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2008</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
A hardish direct start to #2 that is now possible due to the restored pebble. Begin above a slanting slab of rock imbedded in the ground between #2 and #4. Start with your RH high on an obvious toothy crytalline pincher edge and your LH on something poor and not all that helpful (there are a couple options). Power up and left to a good pinkish-white pebble on #2 that was recently restored. Hope it stays and go again to another good edge behind a pebble and head for the top with #2.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">4. Dandy Line V7 ... FA: Dan Stone, 1980</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Climb atop the 2nd boulder left of #5 via some funkyness. Reach to a crumbling half-moon edge with your RH and either jump or match and get a foot on and go to a high LH edge, then to the top. Unfortunately, the high starting edge continues to disintegrate and this problem's future is uncertain.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">5. Hagan’s Wall V5 ... FA: Paul Hagan, 1969 *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Where the trail meets the wall, balance on top of a small boulder on the left and get your LH on the high and sharp edge and your RH into the 2-finger pocket out right. Now get your feet on, reach/swing/throw to the sloping diagonal seam with your RH. There are couple ways to do the finish. A funky double-pebble hold followed by jugs will help you get there. But for the annoying cheaterstone start, this would be a classic anywhere on Earth. As it is, it's merely a classic problem on Flagstaff Mountain.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">6. Project</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A possible and true direct start to #5. There are obvious starting holds and feet which aren't horrible, but a long and difficult move guards the entrance to #5. C'mon strongmos, this would be the hardest problem on the mountain if someone did it.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">7. Hagan’s Wall Direct V10 ... FA: Peter Beal, 2000 *</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin slightly to the right of #5 and #6. Choose amongst a number of bad edges around head-height and tiny nubbins for feet, pull on and go LH into the 2-finger pocket (you get this hold with your RH on #5). From there, get the small finger divot just up and right with your RH. Move your LH left to the sharp edge on #5, switch your RH into the 2-finger pocket and finish #5 to top out. An even lower start which has not been done is possible, beginning matched on the starting crimps with #s 8-10.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">8. Yojimbo V? ... FA: Christian Griffith, early 1990’s</span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Lots of the features on this problem, some of which were reinforced with glue in the 1990's, have broken or deteriorated. It probably still goes, but at a much higher clip than the grade given in the 1990's of V8. Start matched down low on the half-moon starting crimps shared by #s 8-10 and climb the face immediately right of #5-6 straight to the top. Today, this thing is heinously thin and at least V11 or V12. It is also contrived, as all but the supermotivated will be tempted to move slightly left into #7 or slightly right into #9 and avoid the original line altogether.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">9. Shadowline V9 ... FA: Peter Beal, 2008 *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Squeezed between #8 and #10 is a recently completed Peter Beal problem that is distinct from #8. From the same half-moon starting crimps shared by #s 8-10, go LH to the obvious crimp/pinch directly above and RH to either of two bad sloping pinches (note: the keyhole hold is off-route). From there, go to a thin LH crimp before gaining better holds at the fifth handrail (on #13) and finishing. This one has seen quite a few ascents and although it is distinct from #8, it is a nice replacement.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">10. Hand Traverse Direct V8 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
A bit circuitous, but the easiest way to the top from the start shared by #s 8-10. Begin on the same half-moon starting crimps and head up and right to the fifth handrail (on #13) which is 5 or 6 feet up and right from the starting crimps. All the holds on are "on" including the "keyhole," a fingerslot located just below the sloping fifth handrail. Crossing over into the "keyhole" is easier said than done, but doing so may help you attain the fifth handrail and finish with #13.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">11. Third Handrail Direct V2/3 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From the perfection of the third handrail (on #13) , pull on, slap a sloper and arrive at a series of jugs. At about 12 feet, join #15 for a fun left-trending </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">upper traverse</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on good holds with lots of air under your feet.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">12. Second Handrail Direct V3... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Awkwardly pull on at the second handrail (on #13) on another set of perfect starting holds and immediately get a decent RH sidepull sloper, adjust your feet and go to better holds including a sinker pocket. At about 12 feet, join #15 for a fun left-trending </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">upper traverse</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on good holds with lots of air under your feet.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">13. The Hand Traverse AKA Ramp Traverse V4 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Some guidebooks have listed this classic as V2, although during discussions of grades in the past, it is possible that folks confused it with #14. In any event, start at the first of five perfect handrails and traverse left across the remaining four handrails, trending upward with pissy footholds most of the way. From the fifth handrail, get your feet up and reach way left to a decent crimp, match and continue up the ramp to finish. I would suggest having this one wired if you hope to receive full credit for either #22b or 23, as it is pumpy and scary in it's own right and adds tenuous moments to the end of both of those pumpy-as-hell problems classic traverses.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">14. Escape V2 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Start and begin traversing with #13, but from the fourth handrail </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">escape</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> upward and finish with the fun left-trending </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">upper traverse</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on good holds with lots of air under your feet. This version is easier and feels a lot safer than #13, explaining its popularity with the masses.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">15. Upper Traverse V1 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From the right-most (first) handrail, reach right to a pocket then head up to good edges. Continue up and left across jugs and other good holds for a total of 30 feet of moderate fun.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">16. Bob Williams’ Pull V4/5 ... FA: Bob Williams, 1969/1970</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
A one-move wonder that is probably height-dependent. Roughly in the center of the wall, find a vertical line of three pockets. Cram one or both sets of fingers into the highest of these, a circular pocket 6 feet up. Then put your LF up on the slippery sloping handrail and swing or throw to the large solution pocket more than 5 feet up and left. Fun for a laugh.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">17. Diagonal Break VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Begin at the high jugs right of the vertical line of pockets and head straight up to the diagonal break on good holds. Once there, use anything and everything to ascend the slab/gash to the top just above where #15 traverses across the face.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">18. Cloud Shadow Solo VB X ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
This 40+ foot "problem"/solo is intimidating and falling is not an option higher up, yet it's all there. You can literally start anywhere in the vicinity, but the easiest way is to start at the high jugs right of the vertical line of pockets with #17. When you reach the </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">diagonal break</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, find good holds to head out the intimidating headwall to the top, where there are a few ways to safely finish. Long reaches are sometimes necessary even higher up, but the holds are really good and the footholds are all reasonably secure. Despite the VB grade, this "problem" is obviously not for the faint of heart or beginner boulderers.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">19. The Consternation V3/4 X ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Another way to climb into the topout for #20. Begin on the low diagonal rail jug. Head up and left along the diagonal break to jugs at 10 feet, reach left to a pocket, get your feet up and stand up tall to attain just below the finish for #20, the site of much </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">consternation</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">. See #20, for more info about the finish.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">20. The Contemplation V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Left of the bulge, start up a series of pockets, then trend left across a series of more complicated grips including an undercling to a good set of holds and a stance with meager feet at 16 feet, the namesake site of much </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">contemplation</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">. From here, reach up and right to find an edge and pocket, get your feet up and now further </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">contemplate</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> the mess you’ve gotten yourself into as you pull onto the finishing slab blessed with plenty of lichen and very little, if any, chalk.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">21. The High Cloud Shadow Traverse V1/2 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From the starting hold for #20, traverse left across pockets and good edges. As you move left, stay reasonably high so you can finish with style across #15, laughing all the while at the foolfaces below troubling themselves with the slopey handrails and pissy footholds.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">22a&b. The Cloud Shadow Traverse V4 (a) / V5 (b) ... FA: Bob Poling, late 1960’s / early 1970’s *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From the starting hold for #20, traverse left across pockets and good edges until you arrive at the first of the five handrails. From the first handrail, continue across and up #14 for V4 (a) or #13 for V5 (b). Both are classic challenges, not because any of the moves individually are all that hard, but rather because the sloping handrails and pissy footholds are a frustrating nightmare when you're pumped at the end.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">23. The Low Cloud Shadow Traverse V7 ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1988 *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
A bit contrived, but alas really good! From the well-chalked diagonal jug that is also the starting hold for #19, traverse left staying </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">low</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> across very low crimps, pinches and only the lowest of the shallow finger pockets using no holds over 5 feet high (including the starting hold on #16) until the proper finish across #13.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">24. The Moderate Bulge V1 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Begin with the starting pocket for #20-22 and start up the pockets (crux). Once the start is behind you, get a LH sidepull/undercling in the large solution pocket ~11 feet up, head for the incut rail up and right. Pull over from there and traverse over to the right to get down. One of the best for the grade on the mountain.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">25. The Consideration V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1969 *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Classic. Begin with the starting pocket for #20-22 & #24 and aim up and right to the top. The key is getting your LH in the second pocket and bumping to the well-chalked 6-finger crimp rail with your RH. A small crimp is available for your LH before you stop </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">considering</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> your lack of other options and GO for the incut rail at the lip. Right up there with Hollows Way in terms of quality ... one of the very best on the mountain, regardless of grade. </span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Variation #1 - True Consideration V3/4:</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> The way I understand it, this is Ament's original sequence. Start up #25, but once you get the RH on the 6-finger crimp rail, match your LH with your RH (instead of using the small LH crimp) and reach/throw for the lip. The match-and-go to the lip makes the finish a little more difficult and a lot more exciting, as in LOTS of </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">consideration</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">26. Reverse Consideration V4 ... FA: Jim Holloway, early 1970’s *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Switch hands for your first move on #25, going RH into the second pocket. For the next improbable-looking move, get your LF perched high and do a wild crossover with your LH all the way to the 6-finger crimp rail. The key is having your feet perfect. From this ridiculous body position, uncoil, match, ignore the LH crimp, throw for the lip and pull over. This is a crazy problem from the word go.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">27. Epoch V12/13 ... FA: Carlo Traversi, 2007 *</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">This probably should have been listed as a variation, but since it's a link-up into the hardest up-problem on the mountain, I've listed it separately. From the same start as #29, traverse right 3 moves into and up #30. Doing anything before you have to do #30 probably adds something.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">28. UCT to Bob’s Bulge V9/10 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1974 *</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start with #29, and do the first 7 moves or so of #29, but finish up the sharp slopey rail with #32 & 33 (NOT above the dihedral with #36). </span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">29. Undercling Traverse (UCT) AKA Low-Level Traverse V8/9 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1974 *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Originally named the Low-Level Traverse. I could go on and on about why this problem SHOULD NOT start in the arbitrary place that it does, but the historical acceptance of this start probably cannot be undone. So ... begin with your LH in the starting pocket for #20-22 & #24-26 and your RH in the sidepull (slightly underclingy) pocket slightly down and to the right. It's 10 or 11 moves until you can finish up via the dihedral and #36, which is rated V2 by itself, but will feel much harder when you escape the long moves and underclings preceding it.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">30. Trice AKA A.H.R. V12 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1975 *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
One of Holloway's Big Three that saw lots of action and 6 sends during the winter of 2007-2008. Begin this problem on the good LH sidepull and RH undercling. From there, go RH into the the shallow pocket ~9 feet up, get it just right (there is a slight trick that helps for some folks) and use a high LF heel or toe to lock-in and snag a small sloping edge with your LH. Keep your LF or reset it to throw up and right with your RH to the sloping rail, get a jug at the top of the rail and pull over onto the slab.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">31. A.K.R. V11 ... FA: Jim Karn, 1988 *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
A variation to #30 established when Jim Karn was one of the strongest climbers on the planet. From the same starting grips as #30, go LH into the same shallow pocket as #30. Fire right to the sloping rail and fight the twisting swing. Regroup, get the jug at the top of the sloping rail and pull over onto the slab.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">32. The Holloway Direct V7 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1974 *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
A more direct start to #33 that begins with both hands matched on the good undercling. From here, do a long move out the the sharp slopey rail, where the battle continues up #33.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">33. Bob’s Bulge AKA The Bulge Traverse V6 ... FA: Bob Williams, 1969 *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Historically, people started matched up on the sloping left-trending rail, but today ... start LH on the good undercling and RH at the bottom of the sloping left-trending rail. Initially, bump your RH up the sloping rail, then use a high RF scum next to your RH to establish both hands on the rail and start surfing. A real battle and definitely much harder than the previously published grade of V5, although a foot and a half of terra firma have eroded here and people used to start higher. Once you've done this one, #28 and #32 traverse into #33 to finish.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">34. Will’s Bulge V5 ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2005</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In hindsight, I probably should have listed this problem as a variation, but it's too late for second guessing. Start immediately left of the right-facing dihedral and #36 on a LH undercling and small RH pebble. Reach up to the first holds on the slabby face located between the sloping rail (the finishing rail for #s 28, #32 & #33) and the dihedral/seam that is used to finish #29 and ascend #36. From there, ascend the bulge/slab angling up and left between these features without using any holds in or right of the seam for your hands or feet.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">35. Epochalypse V13 ... FA: Daniel Woods, 2008 *</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Currently the hardest problem on the mountain, which could have 10 additional feet of climbing tacked onto the start, which would - at a minimum - solidify the grade. Begin with #36 at the dihedral, traverse left ~6 moves under the bulge until you reach the start for #30. Now, topout #30.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">36. Far East Inside Corner V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Just right of the bulge, start at the good layaway crack in the right-facing dihedral and battle your way up onto the ramp.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">37. Sloping Mantel V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968/9</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Just right of #36, thin shoulder high crimps sit at the edge of a polished sloping ramp. Use them to pull yourself straight up there any way you can. A laugher and sooooo much harder than it looks.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">38. Reverse UCT AKA TCU V9/10 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 1998 *</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">There has been some confusion about the grade of this problem, mostly stemming from folks misunderstanding the true start ... which begins from a low sds ~10 feet right of the dihedral at a little cave on the very far right end of the wall. Battle across small edges with RF heelhooks until you reach the dihedral and can find your sequence under the bulge. Keep at it until you can finish up #25 on the other side of the bulge. Props to those who start in the dihedral, head left and finish, but note that you have NOT properly done what is historically known as Reverse UCT.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">39. The Full Cloud Shadow Traverse V10 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2001 *</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sixty-plus feet of traversing action on some of the best rock on the mountain. Begin from a sds with #38 at the low cave at the far right end of the wall and traverse left, continuing left under the bulge with #38. Where #38 joins and finishes up #25, continue left, joining #22b, the classic traverse of the wall that finishes up the five handrails on the left side of the wall. Very long and pumpy with poor feet. </span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Variation #1 - Trolling for Mank V10/11:</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Another technical 60+ footer with lots of places to make mistakes. This is a Justin Jaeger variation to #39 that instead of joining and finishing across #22b, drops down to join and finish across the lower and more technical #23. Of note, Justin began traversing from the starting crimpers of #37, skipping the first few moves from the sds on the very very far right.</span></span></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-77606577000187428142008-08-17T23:39:00.000-07:002010-04-05T23:55:25.056-07:00Pedestal Boulder Miniguide<div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtTWA2Q01qHjEmZPOGdr8TYcRHJAo7tYC5frgzMRFCSvyYDL-u5DTUSl7YHcIjVf-pimJHaJfjA7Pb2ZEZj1UaXUs3pMV3uKgQqhoBE26Kx1Pt60pDfDY5cqAwqynnIB3XBXzCcLzzFVm/s1600-h/EastSideofPedestal-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtTWA2Q01qHjEmZPOGdr8TYcRHJAo7tYC5frgzMRFCSvyYDL-u5DTUSl7YHcIjVf-pimJHaJfjA7Pb2ZEZj1UaXUs3pMV3uKgQqhoBE26Kx1Pt60pDfDY5cqAwqynnIB3XBXzCcLzzFVm/s400/EastSideofPedestal-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGS70rYAVneXfSGxc8k_BSFg_l2lACBxnK5jz-of7oQQ7-vj-eblBevThkXwqBN09v8y3qz9GEth1BV9tuhMWz5d7dNesFKni5yR5hOr7Nd0Ud9mVTSIoWnOD-buIZgXWCvtfgQ5G-n2Sk/s1600-h/PedestalTraverse-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGS70rYAVneXfSGxc8k_BSFg_l2lACBxnK5jz-of7oQQ7-vj-eblBevThkXwqBN09v8y3qz9GEth1BV9tuhMWz5d7dNesFKni5yR5hOr7Nd0Ud9mVTSIoWnOD-buIZgXWCvtfgQ5G-n2Sk/s400/PedestalTraverse-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHnftshKT_4cYR_jVSVkQeosEG4N6a2qh55V2jcBmpnCb6JUtj6-gDElUckZQU2K97ZWa0GhM1aZ6BQ5LpGjdNKfQ9_dBShkWen_KngX8eGY-dcnqEo6O-r6UcAcdu5MDuDAOY9xwH2L_E/s1600-h/PedestalOverhang-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHnftshKT_4cYR_jVSVkQeosEG4N6a2qh55V2jcBmpnCb6JUtj6-gDElUckZQU2K97ZWa0GhM1aZ6BQ5LpGjdNKfQ9_dBShkWen_KngX8eGY-dcnqEo6O-r6UcAcdu5MDuDAOY9xwH2L_E/s400/PedestalOverhang-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTn6xfeT6RjmCmjIwf8_PYWg1zcWdfoI6CjvkhMG2oGWkOhvhJH-Xl73vu1Y-V56vJPetrzsLRArI0ynpNtXWVj7Miz2MOPwHbMVAmzPZCVBKJONVzQArh8weVU1lcrQJj0UyStlpcMyJb/s1600-h/PedestalArete-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTn6xfeT6RjmCmjIwf8_PYWg1zcWdfoI6CjvkhMG2oGWkOhvhJH-Xl73vu1Y-V56vJPetrzsLRArI0ynpNtXWVj7Miz2MOPwHbMVAmzPZCVBKJONVzQArh8weVU1lcrQJj0UyStlpcMyJb/s400/PedestalArete-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Located near the east end of Cloud Shadow Wall, the Pedestal Boulder possesses a number of fine moderate problems that mostly serve as warmups before folks get silly with all that the Cloud Shadow Wall offers. </span></span><strong><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></span></strong><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach the Pedestal Boulder is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. The Pedestal Boulder is the free-standing lump of rock located 10 feet from the east (far) end of Cloud Shadow Wall.</span></span></div><div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">1. East Slab VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start low on the left side of the east face and head up obvious holds.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">2a&b. East Seam VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From either start, climb the slab/crack with lots of positive surrounding features to the top.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">3. East Bulge V1 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Contrived but fun. Start with #2b. With good feet, move up and establish in a short seam with some handjams and an undercling. Surmount the top bulge using poor features, including a small edge, on the shield of rock between #2 and #4.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">4. Northeast Layback V2 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Really good and fun. From the starting holds for #5 (a selection of poor but well-chalked features under the right side of the east side of the Pedestal), move up to matching crimps and continue straight to the top. The easiest and funnest way I've found to do this problem is to bump into a high flake jug with your RH, high-step and pull yourself up top.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">5. Steven Tyler Visits Boulder V3/4 ... FA: Peter Jones, 1996 *</span><br />
A fun, slightly harder and challenging variation to #6 that begins from a selection of poor but well-chalked features under the right side of the east side of the Pedestal, slide right to edges on the lip and continue across the lip with sparse grips and slopers to topout around the other side of the boulder with #8.<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">6. Pedestal Traverse V2 ... FA: Jim Erickson, 1969 *</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From a selection of poor but well-chalked features under the right side of the east side of the Pedestal, trend up and right up a rail sytem that continues around the other side of the boulder to topout with #8.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">7. Achey Variation V3 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1980 *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Start under the left side of the west-facing overhang on obvious holds and reach up, back and left with your LH to the rail. Match and pull directly up top here.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">8. The Roof V0 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Not a roof. From the same starting holds as #7, make a long easy reach to a small RH crimp, go again to the rail and pull over the left side of the west-facing overhang.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">9. The Notch VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
A few feet right of #8, but left of the tree and the downclimb, climb up and over on big holds on the right side of the overhang.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">10. Pedestal Arete VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Twenty feet right of #9, down by itself and well right the downclimb and the tree, start low on and continue up good holds to a moderate topout.</span></span></div></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-24776724571198564972008-08-11T10:22:00.000-07:002010-03-20T01:53:15.671-07:00Cloud Shadow's Alcove Miniguide<div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOTFOt4bfUxiyAnJ9MVN2tOM0CV8VU_s5MLahzB8mqFYmJo5OMNnTtP30MBAVjY_BMc9CXZcKN6hJ7AsGAvlO3nPr1ufexHzlj169o0NzgsRUs6AELnnY1fsSVbp_uopj4o1Fn7HHx-tj/s1600-h/AlcoveDyno&Sailor'sDelight-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOTFOt4bfUxiyAnJ9MVN2tOM0CV8VU_s5MLahzB8mqFYmJo5OMNnTtP30MBAVjY_BMc9CXZcKN6hJ7AsGAvlO3nPr1ufexHzlj169o0NzgsRUs6AELnnY1fsSVbp_uopj4o1Fn7HHx-tj/s400/AlcoveDyno&Sailor'sDelight-FINAL.JPG" vt="true" width="300" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKbrbz7oyL49bOVaYEwgPG8YqgkhS8VBI7qi5lj3RWrJDeqs0wfpyP74Dx0pI8a6dZIwWqDAjgtHeiX0TMY5bgtjDj53pNE9khYVlwOk2gUYZNPab2JX3simjV2P7WjJsPH8bsNFQAYUK/s1600-h/SouthSideofAlcove-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKbrbz7oyL49bOVaYEwgPG8YqgkhS8VBI7qi5lj3RWrJDeqs0wfpyP74Dx0pI8a6dZIwWqDAjgtHeiX0TMY5bgtjDj53pNE9khYVlwOk2gUYZNPab2JX3simjV2P7WjJsPH8bsNFQAYUK/s400/SouthSideofAlcove-FINAL.JPG" vt="true" width="300" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Cloud Shadow's Alcove is the moniker for the corridor splitting the middle of The Cloud Shadow complex of rock. On the south side of this huge complex of rock is the Cloud Shadow Wall and on the north side is Cloud Shadow's Other Side. Other Miniguides cover both of those areas. There are a number of good problems of various styles and difficulties here, although the fun that can be had may not be all that obvious on first glance. Look again, unless you are solely motivated by really hard problems. </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach The Alcove is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast toward Cloud Shadow Wall. As you approach the western edge of the wall, turn left and head slightly uphill for 15 yards. The problems start here and extend down both sides of the corridor as well as up in the talus on the left on both ends of Cloud Shadow's Alcove.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">NORTH SIDE OF THE ALCOVE</span></span></span><br />
<div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">1. Annual Birth V2/3 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start on the obvious holds on the southeast corner and without using the low shelf for feet, traverse left across the roof and lip of the overhang until you can topout on the far left.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">2. South Mantel V1 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start at the southeast corner, slide left a tad and maybe use a chossy intermediate or two to get your feet up, grab the top jug and pull over.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">3. The Alcove Dyno V7 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2003 *</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A one-move wonder, but a pretty good one. Start with #1 and #2 on obvious juggy grips on the southeast corner with marginal feet. From there, throw 5+ feet up to the high corner and pull over. Harder and more subtle than it looks on first glance because the feet are poor. Like most dynos, this one may feel slightly easier for those that are tall, have long arms or mad ups.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">4. East Overhang Traverse V3 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin at the obvious holds on the corner with #s 1-3 and traverse a few feet right to join #7 for the topout.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">5. New Beginnings V8 (a) / V9 (b) ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2008 *</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin at the obvious holds on the corner with #s 1-4, and traverse right, staying low which will bring you to the starting hold for #8. Now climb #8. You can either finish up the easier version of #8 (a) or the original and harder version (b).</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">6. East Overhang Left V4 sds ... FA: Unknown</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Begin from a sds on a large sidepull up under the east face. Move up into the undercling and then out the short overhang just left of the prominent crack. The crack is on and useful for the RH, but everything right of it is not.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">7. East Overhang Crack V2/3 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Begin with a LH undercling and RH in/near the crack splitting the face (a) or begin from a sds on a large and low sidepull with #6 that precedes the good undercling (b). Either way, the topout is a little devious until you've got it wired.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">8. Curmudgeon V7 sds ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1983 *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Begin from a sds four feet right of #7 under the roof, this time on a right-facing sidepull jug. Climb straight out the short overhang on the amazingly perfect crimps with very cool moves. All feet are on, but the the vertical crack and the handholds associated with it out left are off-route. There are a couple tricks for this one that make it a bit easier than folks once thought, including a LH bump move to a crimper edge, a somewhat dangerous but bomber heel-toe lock and a kneebar scum that works for some folks. Safety-wise, there is a little horn on the slab behind the climber's back that easily allows you to hang a pad on the slab for safety. <span style="color: yellow;"><em>Variation #1 - </em></span></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><em>True Curmudgeon ~V8 sds: </em></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Christian Griffith's original sequence for this problem avoided a formerly chossy hold that has cleaned up and serves as a useful LH crimper edge that you can bump to from the holds below. Off-routing this hold forces the climber to make a longer and more difficult RH move off the small and slick LH edge to the high and flat RH edge while avoiding a hip-DAB on the sidewall. Although originally thought to be quite a bit harder, the consensus grade for Christian's original sequence - now that the beta has been fully tricked-out - has settled in at solid V8, although this move may be a little harder for shorter climbers.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">9. Chubs V9 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009</span><br />
This problem is quite hidden. Scramble up into the talus above problems #1-8 to #10, then scramble up and left towards the road. Drop down into the obvious hole and head into a cave to find a 45 degree southwest-facing block with an additional capstone block on top of it. Start all the way down in the cave underneath it on a good RH sidepull and poor LH pebble. Get your RF up near your hand and make a crux LH bump move to an incut jug with your LH. Match and use other good holds to move up to the lip of the the boulder. From there, reach to the lip of the capstone above it and top it out. Bring some pads to work the initial move, because if you can do that, you should be headed for the top.<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">10. Graveyard Shift V6 ... FA: Misha Zavalov, 2008</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Twenty feet up and right from #8, but down and left from #11 is this steep west-facing problem on a small boulder above a slot landing that requires a few pads. Start low matched on a rail, go RH to a good incut and go LH to a good incut sidepull. Bump the LH once or twice more to higher holds, arriving at the sloping lip and roll over with style.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">11. Sailor’s Delight V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">High up above the middle of the corridor, after ascending a slab is a short but imposing roof. Reach out the roof to jugs at the lip and roll over. It’s difficult and unwise to backtrack once you commit to the lip so it's best to finish with confidence on the jugs up top.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">12. MOB V9 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009</span></span><br />
The next three problems are located up in a nook slightly around to the right from #11 and up above #15. This small east-facing alcove sports leg-breaking talus landings, so bring some pads. This problem begins matched on side-by-side slopers below the lip 3 or 4 feet left of the starting flake for #13. From the starting grips, go to the lip and topout straight up, if not slightly left. It has been suggested that the sds for #14 into this problem will be double digits.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">13. Amently V2/3 ... FA: Peter Jones, 1994</span><br />
Four feet right of #12, begin matched at a high stand start just below the lip on a good flake with an incut sidepull. Go up to the lip and topout via a possible mantel.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">14. The Deuce Deuce V6 sds ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A sds that climbs up and into #13. Begin matched down and right under the roof and climb up and slightly left into #13 for the topout.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">15. Jagged Little Thrill V1 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Near the east end of Cloud Shadow's Alcove, but still on the north side, start low and hand-traverse up and left on jugs that start down low on the far right. Trend up and left to the top of the perched boulder and pull over.</span></span></div></div></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">SOUTH SIDE OF THE ALCOVE</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">16. North Slot V0 ... FA: Unknown</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From a low start, climb the edges and somewhat chossy slot to the top.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">17.</span></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Crack Allegro V1/2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Right of #16, start on holds above your head next to the right-arching and sloping seam and work your way up the seam to the top.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">18. Allegro Bulge V2 sds (a) / V4 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From a sds right of #17, climb perfect edges out the bulge to a possible mantel finish. The V2 version (a) uses ALL the feet. The V4 version (b) off-routes the big foot shelf out right for the start, making use of an incredible LF heel-toe cam to get started.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">19. Allegro Traverse V4 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From a sds, start on good holds several feet right of #18 and traverse left - staying low across the Allegro problems - to a finish up the wide slot that is #16.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">20. Alcove Traverse V7 sds ... FA: Willie Mein, mid 1990's</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start as per #19, but continue 10 more feet left around a bulging arête with poor holds to establish on and finish up a low angle slab inundated with lichen. This one is too grungy for my taste once you round the corner, but maybe it will clean up with some more traffic.</span></span></div></div></div></div></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-56534735528400449982008-08-06T15:11:00.000-07:002010-03-20T01:57:01.502-07:00Cloud Shadow's Other Side Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdNtvXIn93jHEzf8W-PmPkIhZ1T57kLNmEk9xE0E9vZtoN-MgSsqopeiFdSfzB5G16lB35lZsxiBRDCyfrm9oO_7OVlykrmg4XCVvOC5Kyngyu8rLJ5RWvPAA36CxNQqdioLW-GQlB2TG/s1600-h/TheOtherSideRight-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdNtvXIn93jHEzf8W-PmPkIhZ1T57kLNmEk9xE0E9vZtoN-MgSsqopeiFdSfzB5G16lB35lZsxiBRDCyfrm9oO_7OVlykrmg4XCVvOC5Kyngyu8rLJ5RWvPAA36CxNQqdioLW-GQlB2TG/s400/TheOtherSideRight-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG3D9VXDsATivhYmDq0pQxlnM3NplljoRuXXN46CwS3F5iaur4AQ9uX1yC_w6atOWPXPJVEk-qbMe4JQft5x1kgax49qjFY__969UQtACELdYO2UUEBiZicpzBRsdNOObvqL8JQ-BEDD7C/s1600-h/TheOtherSideLeft-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG3D9VXDsATivhYmDq0pQxlnM3NplljoRuXXN46CwS3F5iaur4AQ9uX1yC_w6atOWPXPJVEk-qbMe4JQft5x1kgax49qjFY__969UQtACELdYO2UUEBiZicpzBRsdNOObvqL8JQ-BEDD7C/s400/TheOtherSideLeft-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Not to be confused with Cloud Shadow's Alcove, as that is covered in another miniguide. Cloud Shadow's Other Side is located on the north side of the Cloud Shadow complex of rock up in a strangely isolated spot. There isn't a lot here, but there are a few lines worth playing/warming up on and one absolute gem, Stranger Than Friction, and all of its variations. </span><b><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></b><span style="font-family: inherit;"> There are a couple ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Continue along the guardrail past the halfway point in the hairpin turn and look for a gap in the boulders up to the right. Rockhop through the gap up into an open area and you're there. All the problems are within 10 yards of one another.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">1. The Other Side Arête V2/3 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin on holds at head height on the </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">arête</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> and go to the top.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">2. Pebble Wrestler V4 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Just left of #1, start on head-high pebbles on a vertical face. Perch in a pocket foothold and make a big move to snatch a sloping crimp up on the ramp and continue up and right to the topout with #1.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">3. Aching Absence V3 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Directly below #4-6, from a sds climb out from under a little overhang onto the slab.</span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">4. Space Ship V5/6 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2008</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Start matched on good edges in the horizontal seam down and right from the start holds on #4. With good feet, stretch LH to the RH starting hold for #4. Then, as you gently lean into the LH gaston, go hard for and catch the lip with your RH pulling your feet up to avoid your pad. Hold the swing and pull over with #4.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">5. Rocket V5 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
This is a one-move-wonder out the short overhang on the slab. Begin from a sds up on the high slab on a good RH sidepull edge and a decent LH undercling or thin crimp. Find your feet, make a move to the lip, slide right and pull over.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">6. Project V? sds</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A lower and direct start to #5 that has cleaned up quite a bit over the last couple years, but has still not been done. Start low matched on a good edge and make two difficult moves up into #5. An even lower start begins way down and left with #7-10 and ascends good but sometimes friable edges up and right.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">7. Pulp Friction V7 sds ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2008 *</span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Problems #7-10 start in the same place from a sds on the detached block. This one climbs out the thin face above on a series of thin crimps to a topout at good finishing holds. ALL feet are on, including the starting block. Bring multiple pads and a spotter or two, as the landing is uneven talus and the integrity of the good crimps is still in question.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">8. Doctrine of Equivalents V6 sds ... FA: Scott Neel, 2008</span></span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Problems #7-10 start in the same place on the detached block. Begin from a sds matched on the detached block down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up and perform a 6 foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From the good RH pinch, start up the arête with #9, but instead of topping it out straight up, veer right across edges and slopers on the lip until you reach good finishing holds with #7.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">9. Santos on Mom's Command V6 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008 *</span></span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Problems #7-10 start in the same place on the detached block. Begin from a sds matched on the detached block down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up and perform a 6 foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From the good RH pinch, head straight up the arête to finish.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">10. Stranger Than Friction V6 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006 *</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
A little bit of Hueco Tanks on Flagstaff Mountain that is crazy fun and one of the best problems on the mountain. Begin from a sds matched on the detached block down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up and perform a 6 foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From here, swing your feet through to an obnoxiously high heel/toe hook and continue straight up the little slab feature with body tension, controlled thrutches and bumps involving small edges on the face out left. This one does not disappoint!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffff33;">11. Pile V6? sds ... FA: Botsy Phillips, 2006</span></span></div><div align="justify" style="margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start down low at a juggy flake in the birth canal hole below #7-10, ascending the left side's slopers and possible jams in the crack up into #10 for the finish. This one is not as bad as the name suggests, but DAB potential exists during one's travel through and exit from the birth canal.</span></div></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-62436057477872620812008-07-23T01:54:00.001-07:002010-04-05T23:28:18.117-07:00Panorama Point Trail Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94ZerDZGNitWvL0KsFA8Nm1gyuc9GWk6ShNT-ic8F9XA15b57pgThxNzgx5UIKE7qKJQwAiF8fqRQD9oaOJL-QE4xgYkBMJkvfPqWhPtQHP0lXd2cGnne8nJAeKUo6y2yXpHGLSyk-uYK/s1600-h/PanoramaRockEast-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94ZerDZGNitWvL0KsFA8Nm1gyuc9GWk6ShNT-ic8F9XA15b57pgThxNzgx5UIKE7qKJQwAiF8fqRQD9oaOJL-QE4xgYkBMJkvfPqWhPtQHP0lXd2cGnne8nJAeKUo6y2yXpHGLSyk-uYK/s400/PanoramaRockEast-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo0duKhISWFNlveZGlcuu1vn05PIkvQERBLhpHaO0DNYp0XWaTEbAtiHGY9P63vpqAWqS3G2ZajKVq60vGnrTDO83dHPPYeOV7DedwCF7ul3eMNpF-egtMlXYFRPgbtYmP9GS3V7RxPWfW/s1600-h/PanoramaRockSouthwest-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo0duKhISWFNlveZGlcuu1vn05PIkvQERBLhpHaO0DNYp0XWaTEbAtiHGY9P63vpqAWqS3G2ZajKVq60vGnrTDO83dHPPYeOV7DedwCF7ul3eMNpF-egtMlXYFRPgbtYmP9GS3V7RxPWfW/s400/PanoramaRockSouthwest-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilYGLTe9IbuvM2I80plg7ojDd1IzOEWY2MKQQ5tbI-gd1qSdGE-rDnnE_lOn6iMVnBG0lpxynUAfwr9pmKwQvsRSVyNRhK7m6gMVIJ8IGZOTLAiBFaJYaBWXsC-iJn1edYKBdY5oLbOa_d/s1600-h/PanoramaRoof-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilYGLTe9IbuvM2I80plg7ojDd1IzOEWY2MKQQ5tbI-gd1qSdGE-rDnnE_lOn6iMVnBG0lpxynUAfwr9pmKwQvsRSVyNRhK7m6gMVIJ8IGZOTLAiBFaJYaBWXsC-iJn1edYKBdY5oLbOa_d/s400/PanoramaRoof-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vGS-PUdhVO3qb0tJ5r0bv3tSweEcYD0blImtbXURu1zCvzySmmzGMH6aKGPA1tlghF6B9tmeDBE-dRydarMN5VB3-JkSr8YFPw7fWgPg1jJfu_kb5FJZQQ15qQRaawBr2t2L4dDRPYSc/s1600-h/ScalawagRock-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vGS-PUdhVO3qb0tJ5r0bv3tSweEcYD0blImtbXURu1zCvzySmmzGMH6aKGPA1tlghF6B9tmeDBE-dRydarMN5VB3-JkSr8YFPw7fWgPg1jJfu_kb5FJZQQ15qQRaawBr2t2L4dDRPYSc/s400/ScalawagRock-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVCoOu4wxCwRYuZJsBtMmXltZc8-dgWz_sGOe0rI7bIT8bVH5E53j9voKPZwhUJudL2Q0s3RI6prfqiEsJ79I-AIN8uOOED31LR4tpAxQ9KMcwS6PHMbV_4dVYTBPGHH68pltFFmIk5iDL/s1600-h/HallofHorrorsFarRight-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVCoOu4wxCwRYuZJsBtMmXltZc8-dgWz_sGOe0rI7bIT8bVH5E53j9voKPZwhUJudL2Q0s3RI6prfqiEsJ79I-AIN8uOOED31LR4tpAxQ9KMcwS6PHMbV_4dVYTBPGHH68pltFFmIk5iDL/s400/HallofHorrorsFarRight-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBW_PpSKwsBuerYh37xEMUsWuf-ba8adgTQ87FDmx_kpLBqNLuyfz1TzeaRfUJ_4ZVAOmX3_6Bp_22vK4gqg_lDcUUhUrOirWxW5k02mooIxJIXxyB8wqxM578pFBSAap8nmrXJPEbIKTd/s1600-h/HallofHorrorsRight-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBW_PpSKwsBuerYh37xEMUsWuf-ba8adgTQ87FDmx_kpLBqNLuyfz1TzeaRfUJ_4ZVAOmX3_6Bp_22vK4gqg_lDcUUhUrOirWxW5k02mooIxJIXxyB8wqxM578pFBSAap8nmrXJPEbIKTd/s400/HallofHorrorsRight-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs7f6PAfnJH0l43SMIVu_uSkAvwGh-sZ6K656LTuqy576hp2tr_YXClVst4YjF8NQ7saRRk855eQOBU9fVTKmDTiQE66bim46d47INz0ufYjNOtSbnyuMMg-PXbEJSb531g69RVQcz4zhH/s1600-h/HallofHorrorsSlab-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs7f6PAfnJH0l43SMIVu_uSkAvwGh-sZ6K656LTuqy576hp2tr_YXClVst4YjF8NQ7saRRk855eQOBU9fVTKmDTiQE66bim46d47INz0ufYjNOtSbnyuMMg-PXbEJSb531g69RVQcz4zhH/s400/HallofHorrorsSlab-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrJjZwT8gSHLY6eAgPWs30nXaF6bGL_rjBK0onqSKA6uqCGLp6dbkhV1WmYoM93gX6g1h_XxZpRHE-pQo-1z8gTUuW-S-vWeQpcUzslHc3UWBwc_LWRCbJ9U_1HXZWdedGVQgwHfRHLRiq/s1600-h/HallofHorrorsLeft-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrJjZwT8gSHLY6eAgPWs30nXaF6bGL_rjBK0onqSKA6uqCGLp6dbkhV1WmYoM93gX6g1h_XxZpRHE-pQo-1z8gTUuW-S-vWeQpcUzslHc3UWBwc_LWRCbJ9U_1HXZWdedGVQgwHfRHLRiq/s400/HallofHorrorsLeft-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">This area is comprised of a few blocks littered along the sides of the officially unnamed linkage trail that heads up from Panorama Point across the meadow, through a sea of foliage and across Flagstaff Road, eventually passing Nook's Rock on your right before joining the East Flagstaff Trail down below </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Cloudshadow</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Wall. If walking up from Panorama Point, you will find the previously unnamed Panorama Rock and Panorama Roof, Scalawag Rock and The Hall of Horrors. </span></span><strong><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></span></strong><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Head up Flagstaff Road. Park at Panorama Point, which is 0.5 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Head up the trail through the meadow opposite the parking area. After 100 yards you'll pass some bathrooms. Shortly thereafter the trail will crash into Panorama Rock and a number of fine moderates. On the opposite side of the trail, maybe 20 yards away is Panorama Roof. Head up trail for 100 more yards, wind through some dense foliage, and Scalawag Rock will be on your right. Continue further up trail, cross Flagstaff Road, and after 30 yards The Hall of Horrors will come into view up on the right. If you see Nook's Rock up on your right, you've gone too far.</span></span></div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">PANORAMA ROCK</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">1a&b. Panorama Notch V1 (a) / V3 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> (b) ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From a knob on the protruding corner (a), pull into the notch and up onto the top. A </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> (b) begins on low </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">crimpers</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> and swings for the knob.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">2. Panorama </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Arête</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> VB </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, climb the well-featured southeast </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">arête</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on good holds to the top. One of the best novice problems on the mountain.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">3. Panorama Traverse V2 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start with #2 and hand traverse left across the ledge system, dropping down at the halfway mark and finishing up #8 on the far left.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">4. Panorama Traverse Low V4 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Begin awkwardly from a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> under the shelf and traverse left, staying under the shelf all the way into Southwest Bulge. Silly, awkward, bunchy and contrived.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">5. Panorama Face V1 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> just left of #4, do some long moves on big holds straight up the face into the branches.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">6. Capstone Right V0 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_13"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_13"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_14"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_14"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, pull the bulge with #7 onto a ledge. Trend up and right around the roof to an easy - yet airy and insecure - finish on a small ledge requiring balance and steady footwork. The </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_15"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_15"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">topout</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> sequence makes this one really fun and worth the effort.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">7. Capstone Left V0 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_16"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_16"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA:Unknown</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_17"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_17"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, pull the bulge with #6 onto a ledge. Steer left below the roof and use spooky </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_18"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_18"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">incut</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> edges on the perched capstone boulder's face to pull over the very top.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">8. Low Bulge V0 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_19"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_19"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA:Unknown</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_20"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_20"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on the far left next to a crack, pull the low bulge up onto the ledge.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">PANORAMA ROOF</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">9. Panorama Roof V1 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_21"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_21"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Just south of the trail, begin via a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_22"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_22"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on jugs under the almost horizontal roof, throw back to the lip and pull over on good holds.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">SCALAWAG ROCK</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">10. Scalawag V5 ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1978 *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Climb the right side of the northeast face up and left to the </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_23"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_23"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">incut</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_24"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_24"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">hueco</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> at the lip. Thin crimps, shallow divots and a pebble or two will get you to a point where you will have to make a move for the high </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_25"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_25"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">hueco</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">11. Large </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_26"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_26"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Hueco</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Just right of the northwest corner, climb to the top via the </span></span><em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">large </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_27"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_27"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">hueco</span></span></span></span></em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">HALL OF HORRORS</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">12. Wasabi </span></span></span></span><span style="color: yellow;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">V3 sds </span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">... FA: Chip Phillips, 2004</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Begin from a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_30"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> matched on the obvious ledge. The key to pulling the bulge is getting to a RH </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_31"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sidepull</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_32"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">undercling</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> and a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_33"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sloper</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> before good crimps up top.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">13. The Gristle V1 ... FA: Ashley </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_34"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Overton</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, 2008 *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Begin standing below the ledge, just right of the tree, and climb the face above slightly to the right. From the starting holds, slide right to a large pocket, reach </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_35"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">LH</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> to the protruding pebble on the face and get a small RH crimp, where the good </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_36"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">topout</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> grips come into view.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">14. Nuke on High V2 ... FA: Ashley </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_37"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Overton</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, 2008</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Start with #13, below the upper ledge, and ascend the left side of the face just right of the tree. The key is getting your RH on the protruding pebble in the middle of the face before moving to crimps just short of the top.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">15. Quasimodo V2 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_34"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_38"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008 *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Doesn't look like much, but climbs very well. On the right side of the corridor, begin from a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_35"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_39"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> and head up and right up a series of </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_36"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_40"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">incut</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_37"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_41"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">underclings</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">. From the last </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_38"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_42"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">undercling</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> at 10 feet, make a reach left to a crimp and pull the interesting bulge probably walking your feet up to your hands on a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_39"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_43"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">slabby</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ledge. Once standing on the ledge, an </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_40"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_44"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">incut</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> crimp on the upper slab at 20+ feet will allow you to relax, roll over onto the slab and head for the top. This one will have full your full attention for a few delicate moments.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">16. Pickled Pigs Feet V5 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_45"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Ashley </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_46"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Overton</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, 2008 *</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin with a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_47"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> with #15 and slide left to a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_48"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">LH</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_49"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">undercling</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> and RH 3/4-finger </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_50"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">gaston</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> in a shallow pocket. Make a huge crux move up and left to an </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_51"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">incut</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_52"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sidepull</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">. Now pull the delicate bulge 12 feet up on small edges and </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_53"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">slopers</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> to establish on the slab and continue up the slab for 20 more feet of fun.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">17. Hall of Horrors V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008 *</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Ascend the 35+ foot slab that is perfect, except that it wants to be inundated with lichen, pine needles and other debris. The useful features have been thoroughly cleaned, but nature may have it's way with this one if others don't climb it. Watch out for an interesting sequence 20 feet up that will have you considering your other options.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">18. </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_41"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_54"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Gefilte</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Fish V5 ... FA: Justin </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_42"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_55"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Jaeger</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, 2004 *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Start RH on a pebble 7 feet up and </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_43"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_56"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">LH</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on any of the other holds (there are lots of options). Perch onto the crappy ledge, make a move with the quickness to a protruding pebble or gritty </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_44"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_57"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sloper</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, then up to the lip and the large shallow dishes on the slab. Pull over onto the slab and head up easy terrain to the top.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">19. Canned and Jellied V7 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_45"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_58"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008 *</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A possibly height-dependent </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_46"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_59"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> to #18 that begins hugging the </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_47"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_60"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">arête</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> with your RH on a small pebble way out right and your </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_48"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_61"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">LH</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on a decent crimp. Make a long move to get to the starting RH hold for #18, then use any number of </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_49"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_62"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">pissy</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_50"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_63"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">LH</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> holds to perch and finish with #18.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">20. Dr. </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_51"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_64"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Strangelove</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> V4/5 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2004</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Almost a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_52"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_65"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">laugher</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">. A couple feet left of #18, start on any of the holds below the lip, pull on, slap the top, heel-hook, rock over (desperate comedy) and dash up the tall slab to the top.</span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-78790480614565826332008-06-27T00:22:00.000-07:002010-03-27T03:06:53.167-07:00Nook's Rock & 30th Birthday Roof Miniguide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDHvhhnH_MhEziW_b7GW63AQyGmGGw-9-5I7mHGpPw8aIqbs8JHZw-Z_k1ve3ArtYkxMcIkjFysNmwsR-UeXIBfG7lCVW42J7021GkJIdL-wU0-2eHPxcy3ThRy73tMd8DXSoo1WsGpya/s320/Nook'sButtSlammer-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4C-8_fwbFQqEZ1I84I1274qA4mOP1LaRoq0Ep9DxTSRzuBnvQi_gey-_1t_AWi6TjNAa1qLQZtsyuXzVxyTMDZ-WwaCymtwGH7k7Jex4G9x4cKjZYNBhyX-S1MKatdRAHCXCUWhAARGXL/s1600-h/Nook'sSlab-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4C-8_fwbFQqEZ1I84I1274qA4mOP1LaRoq0Ep9DxTSRzuBnvQi_gey-_1t_AWi6TjNAa1qLQZtsyuXzVxyTMDZ-WwaCymtwGH7k7Jex4G9x4cKjZYNBhyX-S1MKatdRAHCXCUWhAARGXL/s320/Nook'sSlab-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ecAQprxhlNryesP4qfzFI7yWyHl5bcKQmHwjhTyxF9TS15hAFSP77RGp3trLFtliTbOawju2m_xJ0JEwn4pgD8IUV4sz1e41IQSzuORYtObPlFkN809AK_niFyMmfnrhKcaSF6lXH3Uv/s1600-h/Nook'sTraverse-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ecAQprxhlNryesP4qfzFI7yWyHl5bcKQmHwjhTyxF9TS15hAFSP77RGp3trLFtliTbOawju2m_xJ0JEwn4pgD8IUV4sz1e41IQSzuORYtObPlFkN809AK_niFyMmfnrhKcaSF6lXH3Uv/s320/Nook'sTraverse-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2aS334Bb3XtSKb9YrxFY4E_2Ex1njXIvQa6nw2AyRdu0MQBFBFY1rNL0fGOr4nzY8oyIdNuOqOjIrYg5np1zRkJnwVfehK5mEqcgUXrAeLPpEeHyogD1J3xQ9KWsgwvQzeRcqiYSOfwo/s1600-h/Nook'sUndercutRight-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2aS334Bb3XtSKb9YrxFY4E_2Ex1njXIvQa6nw2AyRdu0MQBFBFY1rNL0fGOr4nzY8oyIdNuOqOjIrYg5np1zRkJnwVfehK5mEqcgUXrAeLPpEeHyogD1J3xQ9KWsgwvQzeRcqiYSOfwo/s320/Nook'sUndercutRight-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuLluYtquFndlvv70s_i5EmSpBvgOdO2Q0vHk_jZ8LBVI3z4X8QZcy-Ogudi-4i3A5Oq-54OukDBRGWg5Ruz6NMgx9DmgUxbwRr1c_DJ5kgRxLXP2Pszo8NT2b1Amfa-YDx9MP5CTzfEZD/s1600-h/Nook'sUndercutLeft-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuLluYtquFndlvv70s_i5EmSpBvgOdO2Q0vHk_jZ8LBVI3z4X8QZcy-Ogudi-4i3A5Oq-54OukDBRGWg5Ruz6NMgx9DmgUxbwRr1c_DJ5kgRxLXP2Pszo8NT2b1Amfa-YDx9MP5CTzfEZD/s320/Nook'sUndercutLeft-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjUCVnvCxpnoGf3Kw2g_2XKANY3tKCOG_KUKraiSYYdOoFJfeK95BWkxHXXleGEiIDbNHTuBC3Qu3C-AHT4uF8LXIcnnV13lQuLe_Git-v4Bu-8v6PxPAsz88y-6JiUu044ZeENh8IRFUd/s1600-h/30thBirthdayRoof-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjUCVnvCxpnoGf3Kw2g_2XKANY3tKCOG_KUKraiSYYdOoFJfeK95BWkxHXXleGEiIDbNHTuBC3Qu3C-AHT4uF8LXIcnnV13lQuLe_Git-v4Bu-8v6PxPAsz88y-6JiUu044ZeENh8IRFUd/s400/30thBirthdayRoof-FINAL.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Nook's Rock is named for one of Flagstaff Mountain's first boulderers, the infamous Layton Kor. Flagstaff Mountain regulars have been enjoying quiet and surprisingly cool sessions at Nook's Rock ever since. Nook's Rock is surrounded by shade-giving pines at the bottom of a steep northeast-facing hillside which hosts all the Dark Side problems. Nook's Rock offers up some must-do cruiser slab problems, multiple challenging bulge problems on the east side above an undercut and a testy traverse with some variations that add some difficulty. Colin Lantz added some nice problems around here, including the feisty arête problem Slut Bammer and a couple of lines on the 30th Birthday Roof. There's also Will LeMaire's unrepeated testpiece, Window Shopper, as well as Butt Slammer, a beauty of a line that hasn't been repeated since a key flake broke shortly after the first ascent in 1974-75. <strong><span style="color: yellow;">Where:</span></strong> There are other ways to approach Nook's Rock, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. Walk to the end of Cloud Shadow Wall, turn left and follow the obvious social trail for 5 minutes to the north/northeast, dropping downhill and passing a handful of problems on the right. At the bottom of the hill - where the trail levels out - a large boulder will come into view. This is Nook's Rock. Appropriately, the first thing everyone notices is Butt Slammer.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red; font-family: inherit;">NOOK'S ROCK</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">1. Slut Bammer V6/7 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 2004 *</span><br />
Start 8 feet right of Butt Slammer at the bottom of an arête. Trend left up the arête with your RH, utilizing sidepulling crimps down on the face with your LH for tension and heel-hooking most of the way into the topout holds for Butt Slammer.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">2. Butt Slammer V? ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5 *</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Right of The Scoop down in a hole, climb out the impressive south-facing overhang. To start, use a good LH flake and high RH crimp. Originally B1+, an important hold broke soon after the first ascent. Lots of other flakes and edges up high, some of which were reinforced with glue at some point, have recently snapped off as well. However, plenty of holds remain and this one definitely goes, it's just a question of "when" and "by whom?" Bringing lots of pads and a couple spotters would be wise as the landing is primarily onto a 35 degree slab until the very top.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">3. The Scoop VB ... FA: Unknown</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Climb the low-angled and well-featured line of least resistance up the southwest face up into the branches. This is also the primary means of retreat off all the problems except the bulge problems on the east side.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">4. Nook's Southwest Arête VB ... FA: Unknown *</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Simply put, climb straight up the southwest arête for ~20 feet.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">5. Nook's Slab Far Right VB ... FA: Unknown *</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A few feet left of #4, climb straight up the far right side of the west-facing slab ~20 feet to the top.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">6. Nook's Slab Right VB ... FA: Unknown *</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A few feet left of #5, pull on just right of 2 trees and climb ~20 feet to the top.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">7. Nook's Slab Left VB ... FA: Unknown *</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A few feet left of #6, start behind a tree just left of center and climb ~20 feet to the top.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><span style="color: yellow;">8. Nook's Slab Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Traverse left to right across the west-facing slab from the base of #7, finishing up #4 or #3.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">9. Nook's Slab Far Left VB ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">On the far left of the slab, ascend good edges and slopers up to an easy finish on big slopers 20+ feet up.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">10. Wimpie’s Revenge V2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5 *</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Ascend the bulging face right of #11 on the right side of the north face. Utilize mostly pebbles and probably a dynamic move to achieve a ledge, slide right then head up to finish.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">11. Wimpie’s Revenge Left V0 ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
From the deep pocket, ascend the shallow dihedral to a ledge 15 feet up. Slide right then up to finish.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">12a&b. Nook's Traverse V8 (a) / V9 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown / sds: Ted Lanzano, 2006 *</span><br />
This problem, previously named the Southside Traverse in Benningfield's guide was reported to be V5. Maybe something has broken, but what I do know is that this problem actually traverses the north face from left to right. The rock is impeccable and if it wasn't a rising traverse on an aggressively sloping hillside with a meddling tree in the middle, this problem would be one of the best traverses on the mountain. Anyway, here's the beta ... Although it’s possible to start all the way down near the northeast corner, the normal start is about 10 feet right of here at the left-most obvious "red" hold (a), avoiding some cool introductory possibilities. The crux comes just past the meddling tree before the problem finishes up #11. In 2006, Ted Lanzano did this problem from a low left sds (b) that traverses into the problem staying very low until you reach the red hold and the start for #12a. <em><span style="color: yellow;">Variation #1 - Full Nook's Traverse V10:</span></em> A few years ago, Stevie Damboise tacked an introductory sequence onto the front end of the regular traverse as well as adding a difficult exit sequence onto the back end. Find the "goblet hold" down near the Northeast corner and do 5 or 6 moves up to the start for #12a. Now do #12a, but from the deep pocket at the base of #11, rest/regroup then continue around the corner (staying low ~V8) and then finish with any of the VB problems on the slab. Essentially, V10 = V5/6 + V8 + an OK rest + V8 + VB slab problem. LOTS of climbing and lots of places to make mistakes. Enjoy!</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">13. Northeast Corner V2 ... FA: Unknown</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">At the rounded northeast corner, ascend small protruding pebbles to gain the slab and move up to positive edges and a stance 15 feet up. Most people downclimb problems #13-23 to a point where they can safely jump to a pad.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">14. Ashes to Ashes V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2006</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin via a sds using a LH undercling and a good RH sidepull, do a hard move, reach up to #13's starting holds and finish up #13.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">15. Project</span><br />
An obvious lip traverse that starts with #14, but traverses left all the way across the lip to a nice topout with #s 21-24. Start with #14, slide left into the first few holds of #16, attain the lip and begin the battle across poor lip features. Possibly double digits.</div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">16. Nipple Shredder V6 ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2006</span><br />
Contrived and painful, but a laugher. Begin low on matched underclings, grovel your second foot on and slide left without using the good pebbles on #13 to obvious but very poor holds. From here, battle up onto the slab using an obvious right foot, all the while mindful of disengaging feet and the damage you are about to do to your torso and forearms. Long pants and sleeves made of durable materials are recommended.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">17 . Northeast Undercut Far Right V3/4 ... FA: Unknown</span><br />
From subtle and inobvious holds just above the lip 5 feet left of Nipple Shredder, get a foot on, go hard with your RH to a good edge useful as a pinch and grovel over.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">18. Northeast Undercut Right V3 ... FA: Unknown</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start in the same place as #17 with both hands on subtle imperfections above the lip (your exact hand placement may be slightly different). Get a foot on, bump left for a incut crimp, match and pull over about where #20 tops out.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">19. Project</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">An obvious line that has been thoroughly cleaned and tried quite a bit lately, based on the look of things up there in early 2010. Begin from a sds on obvious edges down low. Not sure where this one will end up topping out, but finishing up #17 or #18 makes the most sense if someone can bridge the gap between the starting holds and the lip. Double digits are likely.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">20. Northeast Undercut Left V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, late 1960’s</span><br />
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, pull on and slide up and right to an edge. Mantel or go hard up and right to a crimp, pulling over about where #18 tops out.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">21. Northeast Undercut Far Left V2/3... FA: Pat Ament, late 1960’s</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, go to a perfect incut LH crimp and pull over with style.</span></div><span style="color: yellow;">22. Glass Plus V9/10 ... FA: Peter Jones, 2006</span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Read the description for #23 ... OK, begin just right of #23. Switch your starting hold for your LH onto the miserable RH starting hold for #23 and get your RH onto a pebbly crimp that has a good thumb catch underneath. Get your foot onto the obvious cobble, go the lip and top out per #21. A slightly lower start has been proposed, but to my knowledge has not been done to date.</span></div><span style="color: #b45f06;">23. Don't Touch the Glass V7/8 ... FA: Will Lemaire, 2006 *</span><br />
<div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Have this rig wired if you intend to start working #24. Begin matched on 2 poor side-by-side grips at head-height below the start for #20 and #21. Pull on (difficult in and of itself) and go for the lip with your RH (crux). There are lots of candidate holds to choose from at the lip, but they are difficult to catch and hold. Hold the swing and topout via #21.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><em><span style="color: #ffff33;"></span></em></span><span style="color: yellow; font-family: inherit;">24. Window Shopper V12? sds ... FA: Will Lemaire, 2006 *</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In contention with Holloway's Trice for the hardest up-problem on the mountain. Begin from a sds way down and left from #20-23 on the lowest LH and RH opposing sidepulls. Bump up each hand to higher opposing sidepulls, then slide directly right across frustratingly miserable holds until you can finish straight up #23. Originally, I split the difference between the 2 grades Will gave me (V10 and V12), but since one of its already too few holds has broken and four years have gone by without a repeat of the full line, this one is most likely V12 or harder today.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">25. Window Dressing V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2006</span><br />
While standing in front of the starting holds for #24 and #26, jump really hard to a hard-to-see sloper 10 feet up with your RH, hold the twist, establish on the lip and surf left to a topout on the slab on incut crimps.</span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">26. Shopping For Dressing V9 ... FA: Eric Harrison, 2009 *</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;">A proper start to #25, that begins on opposing crimps at chest height. Slide right just a bit, then make a big move to the hard-to-see sloper just above the lip. A lower start with #24 on the lowest opposing crimps might put this into double digits.<br />
<span style="color: red;">30TH BIRTHDAY ROOF</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">27. Jimmy, Stop Putting Erl Down the Terlet V6/7 ... FA: Ben Collett, 2008</span><br />
Find the undercling on the right, close to the end of #29. Pull on here and traverse left about 8-10 feet to the final crimps before the prow and topout #30.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">28. Just Slightly Different V9 ... FA: Ben Collett, 2009 *</span><br />
Begin on the far right at the undercling with #27. Again, traverse left, but continue around the prow and ascend #31 without the benefit of the prow arête. It is tricky and core-intensive to get your feet around the corner to topout #31.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">29. The 30th Birthday Roof Traverse V5/6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1994</span><br />
Start matched on an undercling below the roof and pull directly out the roof to the prow arête. Slide right across crimpers on the right side of the prow, then use good feet and a combination of grips on and under the lip to continue right 10 more feet to a tame finish on the very far right of the boulder.</span></div><div align="justify" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">30. The 30th Birthday Roof V6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1994 *</span><br />
Start matched on an undercling below the roof with #29 and pull directly out the roof to the prow arête and the crimps just slightly to the right of the prow. Once established on these crimpers, top out right there. Kind of short, but a fun battle typically ensues on the topout. Long pants may come in handy during the topout.</span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06;">31. Backrub V6-8? ... FA: Peter Jones, 2005/6 *</span><br />
Begin matched on the same undercling with #29 and #30, but pull out to a selection of sloping crimps left of the prow. Without using the prow arête, go the the top on small sloping edges. Different sequences exist and grades between V5 and V10 have been reported, with the truth residing somewhere in between these extremes. Time will clarify the grade as beta is refined and the easiest sequence becomes known and used. If you have an opinion, weigh in. Votes so far with varying beta include <strike>V5</strike>, V6, V8, V8 and <strike>V10</strike>.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">32. And Now For Something Completely Different V6 ... FA: Ben Collett, 2009 *</span><br />
Start matched on the undercling with #29-31 and do this fun variation to #31 on the left side of the prow that allows you to use the prow arête on your way to the top.</div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-41415007846075855572008-06-18T05:37:00.000-07:002010-04-05T23:20:48.446-07:00Notlim Boulder Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil3gblFoacaGZhV_s_96cd7HReZIcX7fTPxs1P_dpl7UTz1r5pXG3l7JtSDVp4nvwMHE72s_3d_ZJwwh5onowgfM9lvi8eFY8bt726cypiEk4vn0YsGdTXKaOPu81SYDDpq0wSOlEzUT7N/s1600-h/NotlimNorth-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil3gblFoacaGZhV_s_96cd7HReZIcX7fTPxs1P_dpl7UTz1r5pXG3l7JtSDVp4nvwMHE72s_3d_ZJwwh5onowgfM9lvi8eFY8bt726cypiEk4vn0YsGdTXKaOPu81SYDDpq0wSOlEzUT7N/s320/NotlimNorth-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpMIn2p9yO4I1KIVnC0Nfo5LfKyNdqzemwCGqGayPAh6dzeSfy3Ub63BJYay9RrnKiRmA5pDyQ-TM88kxbO1949SKHG_hyphenhyphenAFkXUcFPEW7VbqZSA0Y-TVpAFZd0fjpGcnFAEw7daENsZDaK/s1600-h/NotlimSouthwest-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpMIn2p9yO4I1KIVnC0Nfo5LfKyNdqzemwCGqGayPAh6dzeSfy3Ub63BJYay9RrnKiRmA5pDyQ-TM88kxbO1949SKHG_hyphenhyphenAFkXUcFPEW7VbqZSA0Y-TVpAFZd0fjpGcnFAEw7daENsZDaK/s320/NotlimSouthwest-FINAL.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Apparently someone was a fan or detractor of Milton, which is Notlim backwards. Although there are a few lesser-known problems on this block, the Notlim Boulder is known for being home to one of the most coveted V8 ticks on the Front Range in Hollows Way. Done by Rob Candelaria in the mid-1970's, the name was his tribute to the fabulous Jim Holloway. One look at the tangled root-infested landing area, the thinness of the layback seam and the intimidating final move, it is almost inconceivable that this problem was done during the pre-crashpad era. The exposed root system at the base is worrisome until this rig is fully padded up. Although it is certainly not a highball in modern terms, there are lots of ways to potentially come off this problem and hurt yourself. Well padded, however, it is a safe and incredibly aesthetic line to climb in a secluded spot away from the masses. Even better, it faces north, gets NO sun and can have decent conditions even in the middle of summer in the morning and evening. If you can only get on one problem on Flagstaff Mountain, this would be a solid choice assuming V8 is in your price range. </span></span><span style="color: yellow;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> There are a couple ways to approach this boulder, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the steps to Capstan Rock, pass it on your right, scramble up the short hill and cross the road. Pass Road Sign Rock on your right and follow a faint and winding social trail that drops downhill to the north into the woods, passing the highball Brown Glass Wall on your right. The trail will deposit you at the base of the Notlim Boulder after about 20 more yards.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;">1. Botsy's Way V5 sds ... Botsy Phillips, 2007</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cccccc;">Begin from a sds matched on a jug on the left side of the little cave. A long tensiony RH move to a sloping edge and a crossover snag of the lip will get you into the easier topout moves. At least 2 pads (one to pad the meddling boulder behind you) are necessary.</span></span></span></span></div><div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;">2. Northeast Corner V2/3 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cccccc;">From good starting holds above the obvious cobble, step onto the large cobble, go for the lip maybe slide left a bit and roll over onto the ledge.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;">3. Lifted V7/8 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009</span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cccccc;">A lower start to #2 with a whole new twist. Begin with your LH on the obvious cobble and your RH on a poor undercling edge and climb the arête/seam to the lip and pull over via #2.</span></span></span></span></span></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">4. Hollows Way V8 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975/6 *</span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cccccc;">Best for the grade on Flagstaff Mountain and one of the best irrespective of the grade. Start matched high in the stellar 15 foot overhanging and shallow seam up the middle of the north face and start up the thin holds in the seam. One of the best things about this problem is that numerous solutions exist. Have fun figuring out what works best for you!</span></span></span></span></span></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;">5. Right Dihedral V2 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cccccc;">Eight feet right of Hollows Way, use good matching crimps to stand atop the meddling boulder below and reach an incut RH flake. Lay the RH flake back to pull the bulge, veer into the slabby dihedral and make a committing reach move up high on thin feet. I recently re-cleaned this line, making it climbable for the first time in at least 10 years. The potential landing area is about as bad as #4, but it pads up nicely with 3 or 4 pads.</span></span></span></span></span></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;">6. Southwest Pebble Pull V0 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cccccc;">On the left side of the thin slabby southwest face of the Notlim Boulder, dance up and slightly right using small pebbles to the topout on opposing underclings.</span></span></span></span></span></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;">7a&b. Two Scoops V1 (a) / V4 sds (b) ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001 *</span></span></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #cccccc;"><span style="color: yellow;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cccccc;">Start matched in edges in a head-high scoop (a) and pinch a second scoop to reach small edges and a handjam crack which you can milk to the top. For the sds (b), begin on the lowest sharp crimps and use a powerful RF heel hook to pull out the overhanging bulge, establish in the first scoop and finish via the stand start.</span></span></span></span></span></div></div></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-18621246075536651992008-06-14T02:05:00.001-07:002010-03-20T02:04:37.335-07:00Cookie Jar Miniguide<div align="justify"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNzGVDlD5r1XcTLNEYICTfJFCFHMTcI3KvybJFrjvDIhX18fnqgIg-ZZ1AXFLB3RDX6M9xLpjSKGvRgdCgjKicyh8YZM8Q7jd2XgXQFkQQXLgfV64g_HggL9O2BplI4QmVDw5fxjiTvaxV/s1600-h/EastCookieJar-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNzGVDlD5r1XcTLNEYICTfJFCFHMTcI3KvybJFrjvDIhX18fnqgIg-ZZ1AXFLB3RDX6M9xLpjSKGvRgdCgjKicyh8YZM8Q7jd2XgXQFkQQXLgfV64g_HggL9O2BplI4QmVDw5fxjiTvaxV/s400/EastCookieJar-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVDzLndqQyyml0k9WQjHQ9kP8Krswyqc24lSShWytAXqWsdTQh_O61nX4pQ_Uu_sstO5Wx1P-y3mg8TXTxaqD7yUZutOJOv5mZlIGZNhPSJZ3M2vtrePiM_6Qe03mzlsU6ftYZGE8Lbp6A/s1600-h/SouthCookieJar-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVDzLndqQyyml0k9WQjHQ9kP8Krswyqc24lSShWytAXqWsdTQh_O61nX4pQ_Uu_sstO5Wx1P-y3mg8TXTxaqD7yUZutOJOv5mZlIGZNhPSJZ3M2vtrePiM_6Qe03mzlsU6ftYZGE8Lbp6A/s400/SouthCookieJar-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg2Uvn8wWDRUXEKkKc9uo_7vDc66OQ1i_H7ClP0Akx7KzQiNLIFEzrr3GDva_Nqc2QmhTiK30cnTf71664sMLIIY6ASXJI7WGQYvnN1c8HUfj-ZaNH49ka-KzvSeQaEgbyImLX94f1ERI6/s1600-h/NorthCookieJar-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg2Uvn8wWDRUXEKkKc9uo_7vDc66OQ1i_H7ClP0Akx7KzQiNLIFEzrr3GDva_Nqc2QmhTiK30cnTf71664sMLIIY6ASXJI7WGQYvnN1c8HUfj-ZaNH49ka-KzvSeQaEgbyImLX94f1ERI6/s400/NorthCookieJar-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Cookie Jar is yet another formation on Flagstaff Mountain with a long and sordid history. Essentially climbed-out in the early 1960's, almost all of the "problems" are proud, but fairly moderate in modern terms. Most folks know the almost unbelievable story about Ray Northcutt's tumble off Northcutt's Roll, which deposited him all the way down onto the road. Undeterred, he completed the climb shortly thereafter. Lesser known, however, is Larry Dalke's hushpuppy solo of this "problem." Talk about performance anxiety! Around 1960 - while Pat Ament was still a beginner, Bob Culp introduced him to Jackson's Pitch, doing it in a suit and tie during an after-work session. I certainly hope it wasn't summertime. </span></span><b><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></span></b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> There are a couple of ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park at the Flagstaff House Parking Area on the left 0.7 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Walk up the road another 1/10th of a mile until you arrive at the The Cookie Jar which is just off the road on the right.</span></span><br />
<div><div><div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">1. The Rough One V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1969</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Next to the road on the boulder just north of The Cookie Jar, pull a challenging east-facing bulge and ascend a low-angle slab and left-facing dihedral to the top. More interesting and challenging than it looks, but it starts almost in the road.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">2. Northcutt’s Roll V3 X ... FA: Ray Northcutt, late 1950’s</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Ascend the slightly overhung east face to a bulge that deposits you on the slab up top. Be aware that if you choose to boulder this one out and fall, you could bounce and/or roll into the road. Toprope rehearsal is strongly recommended, but make sure you know how to properly use directionals to keep the rope in place.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">3. Right Shield V1 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
About 6 feet right of Cookie Jar Crack, just before the hill falls away, climb up then left 25 feet up good edges to the top. There is an anchor up top if you want a toprope for rehearsal, etc.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">4. Left Shield V1 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Climb the tall face with perfect edges just right of Cookie Jar Crack. There is an anchor up top if you want a toprope for rehearsal, etc.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">5. Cookie Jar Crack VB ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Climb the obvious south-facing wide crack problem to the top. Good holds abound, but use the toprope anchor if you are unsure. Best VB problem on the mountain, although it is probably wouldn't be the best idea to expect a beginner to boulder this one out.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">6. Jackson’s Overhang AKA Russian Nose V1 ... FA: Dallas Jackson or Bob Culp, late 1950’s *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
A few feet left of Cookie Jar Crack, pull out the overhang on good holds to a ledge and pull a couple more moves to the top.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">7. West Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Start under the west overhang, move into a thin undercling and surmount the bulge onto the ledge.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">8. Access Pitch VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The northwest corner has a dihedral and ledges that you can easily descend or get you to the top to set up that toprope.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">9. Commitment V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Appropriately named, make along reach to start and ascend the bulge on the right side of the north face above a boulder and altogether grim landing. Use the anchor up top if you like.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">10. Jackson’s Pitch V2 ... FA: Dallas Jackson or Bob Culp, late 1950’s *</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
In the middle of the north face, surmount the low bulge starting on a good incut and undercling. The top’s easier, but the rock is a little questionable ... so tread lightly up high.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">11. Kor’s Corner V0 ... FA: Layton Kor, late 1950’s</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
Ten feet left of Jackson’s Pitch, climb the right-angling, somewhat chossy, crack system up and left to the top.</span></span></div></div></div></div></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-89751085913456000122008-06-09T05:20:00.000-07:002016-01-13T23:47:56.358-08:00Dark Side South Miniguide<div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: small;">The hillside labyrinth known as The Dark Side is the collection of boulders lying between Nook's Rock and the Cloud Shadow complex of rock. This miniguide will cover the southern half of the Dark Side's problems, as Dark Side North was covered in another miniguide. Problems are numbered, beginning with problems that are about 30 yards south of Nook's Rock and ending with problems that are about 100 yards uphill from there. Like the rest of The Dark Side, the entire area is well shaded by trees and almost all of these problems face north so conditions can sometimes be quite good when it is hot elsewhere on the mountain. </span><b><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">Where:</span></span></b><span style="font-size: small;"> There are a number of ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. Walk to the end of Cloud Shadow Wall, turn left and follow the obvious social trail for 5 minutes to the north/northeast, dropping downhill and passing a handful of obvious problems on the right. When Nook's Rock comes into view, you are there. Dark Side South problems begin 30 yards south of Nook's Rock on the left side of the main social trail if you are walking back towards Cloud Shadow Wall. As you are heading uphill on this trail, there are three formations on the left, all within 25 yards of one another, ie: Stage Rock, The Jim Hall Boulder and The Pillar. There are two other formations on another fainter social trail/wash that parallels the main one about 10 yards to the north. To find these problems, walk 10 yards towards Nook's Rock from The Jim Hall Boulder and head directly uphill. Incuts Overhang comes first and is on the left. Continue uphill and Slot Overhang will appear in front of you imbedded in the hillside. The HOH Overhang is up in the talus west from there, as tone's throw from Stranger Than Friction and the rest of the Cloud Shadow's Other Side problems.</span></div>
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;">STAGE ROCK</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">1. Exit Stage Left V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Left of the Jim Hall Traverse is a small overhanging boulder. From a low sds underneath, start LH on the lowest edge and RH on the undercling. Make a couple moves up and slightly left, then make a long LH move out the left side of the overhang. You can start matched on the lowest edge, but that edge is likely to break if we don't take it easy on it.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><span style="font-size: small;"></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">2. Exit Stage Right V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Start from the same sds as Exit Stage Left, with your LH on the lowest edge and RH on the undercling, crossover LH to the rail and match, then pull out the overhanging bulge slightly to the right. You can start matched on the lowest edge, but that edge is likely to break if we don't take it easy on it.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">3. Stage Rock Lip Traverse V0 sds ... FA: Unknown</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I left this butt-dragger undone, but someone has done it since. Start low on the far right, lift your ass off the ground and traverse left a couple moves to topout with #2.</span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;">THE JIM HALL BOULDER</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">4. The Jim Hall Traverse V4 ... FA: Jim Hall, 1980’s *</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Begin down low on the far left and traverse right across the overhang about 30 feet. At the end of the overhang, pull up and over. </span><i><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">Variation #1 - Subterranean V10:</span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"> A 2008 Peter Beal linkup variation to #4. Start across #4, but a little more than halfway through the regular traverse, drop down #7 to the low flakes, slide right and finish up #8. <span style="color: yellow;"><em>Variation #2 - Sittin' Sideways V9:</em></span> A variation to to #4 established by Alex Manikowski in 2009. Start across #4, but in the same place that Subterranean drops down, use the good low edge with your RH to crossover with your LH a couple feet into another edge which spits you into #8 for the finish. This problem essentially eliminates all the high and good stuff in the middle of the traverse without dropping down to the low somewhat chossy flakes on Subterranean.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">5. Jim Hall Left V0 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">There would be a lower start if the meddling boulder wasn't in the way, so just start on the jug rail and surf up and right a few moves to the top.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">6. Jim Hall Right V0 ... FA: Unknown</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Start at the cool red holds and zoom up and right to the top.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">7. Battaglia's Backside V5 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2007 *</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Begin from a sds on a low RH crimp and LH sidepull and pull the bulge.</span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">8. Battaglia's Bottom V7/8 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2007 *</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
This one begins from a sds just a couple feet right of #7. Start LH on the flake crimp from #7 and RH on a sidepull flake a little to the right. Make a very long LH move to the lip and fight hard to stay engaged, reset your feet, go RH to a toothy crimp and topout up and slightly right. Another possibly higher percentage way to do this involves first matching on the flake, then doing a RH move to a small crimp to start. Try both and see if either way works for ya. This has become a popular little problem. </span><i><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">Variation #1 - Illumination V10 sds:</span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"> A Peter Beal variation done in 2008 that tacks a short traverse onto the front end and eliminates some holds on the back end. Begin on a smallish crimp down and left of the flake that has the starting holds for #7 and #8 . Get your LH up to a pinch near the lip, then slide right across the aforementioned flake into the start for #8. From there, go RH to the small obvious crimp, then bump your LH up pissy face holds until it arrives at the toothy crimp. The slopey pocket and the lip are off here. Topout up and slightly right. Probably more like V9 without the short introductory traverse.</span></div>
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;">THE PILLAR</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">9. The Pillar V2 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Start low on opposing holds and climb out the underbelly of this phallic pillar to its end, then pull up and over.</span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;">INCUTS OVERHANG</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: small;">10a&b&c. Deep/Deeper/Deepest Cuts V1 (a) / V4 sds (b) / V5 sds (c) ... FA: Unknown *</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">STEEP and really fun with different starts to up the ante. Start standing on holds on/near the left arête OR using holds in the middle of the overhang (a), make a big move to a jug and then to another jug before a balancey rollover topout. For a bigger challenge (b), begin from a sds on two obvious large holds just right of the arête and use both arête and face holds on your way to the top. To add a couple more steep moves and a powerful start (c), begin from a very low sds on a good LH sidepull in a crack and a RH undercling jug all the way down at the very bottom of the arête.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">11. Serenity Now V6/7 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Begin from the lowest sds with #10c and climb to the top without the benefit of the arête for either hands OR feet. From the starting jugs, go to matching thin crimps, then to a complex RH grip before a big move to the first of the jugs that take you to the top. Cool sequence taking the arête out of play!!!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">12. Valkyrie V5 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008 *</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Start utilizing holds associated with a very thin flake at chest height in the middle of the overhang. Pull on and go RH to a bad sloper on the right arête. Reset your feet, maybe switch your LH to a small crimp, then either jump for the high incut jug - fighting the twisting swing - or use a left heelhook to span the gap to the incut jug. Finally, slide right at the top to some of the finest topout holds on Flagstaff Mountain. See #13 for the full line.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: small;">13. Valhalla V7 sds ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2008 *</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Begin from the same sds with #10(c) and #11 and do the first three moves with #11 without the benefit of the arête, then crossover LH to the sharp finger rail and establish on the starting holds for #12. Hang on, now do #12.</span></div>
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;">SLOT OVERHANG</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">14. Orca Trainer V6 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Uphill from Incuts Overhang and just south of the Cryptic Wall is Slot Overhang. Begin from a low sds with your LH on the arête and your RH in a crimpy pocket under the overhang. Surf the lip via multiple heel hooks all the way to topout next to #15. Pants and long sleeves are most definitely recommended, as you will be hugging <i>orca</i> all the way up.</span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">15. Slot Overhang V2 sds ... FA: Unknown *</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Begin from a sds under the overhang on the large flake and climb straight out the overhang. Milk some slopers up top to reach for good finishing holds.</span></div>
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;">HOH OVERHANG</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">16. Hell of Holidays V3 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">In the talus west of Slot Overhang, find this 45 degree overhang with beautiful lichen. Ascend the middle of the overhang from a high start just below where a confounding 1/4" expansion bolt protrudes from the rock. A couple high gravity moves on good rock will have you at the lip.</span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">17. Gin & Juice V5 sds ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009</span><br />
A sds to #16 that adds 2 or 3 moves. Begin slightly lower than #16 on poor holds with a huge shelf for your feet, climb up into #16 via an inobvious sequence on more poor holds, then topout according to #16.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">18. Hope Everything Holds V2/3 ... FA: Peter Jones, 2009</span><br />
About 5 feet right of #15 and #16, find the angled and positive angled undercling a couple feet under the lip of the boulder. Start matched on the undercling with an obvious rail for your feet, make a move to the lip and topout.<br />
<span style="color: yellow;">19. High Life V? sds ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009</span><br />
Begin on holds that are 3 or 4 feet below the large angled undercling that is the starting hold for #18. Originally V8, there is a chossy sidepull here that has broken since the first ascent. Zig-zag your way out the steepness via several suspect holds that unfortunately continue to break and exfoliate choss. This problem's future is most definitely uncertain.</div>
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chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-65929188194537053072008-05-31T01:53:00.000-07:002010-04-05T23:23:37.334-07:00One-Arm Rocks Miniguide<div align="justify"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkb7-ya4NvY5BEpJzGWa0XomVpBbazPCy1zNd8Ze1ZGqSxwzQCe_ryU6rdUMZm3dPp5RZgOTqjnDff7nvHi-Hdrn2K4E3Pz-hPyVUgMVAC7L5QTYMzjHDMBTW1NaZsvpALHMFfP-W1D7B/s1600-h/One-ArmRocks-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkb7-ya4NvY5BEpJzGWa0XomVpBbazPCy1zNd8Ze1ZGqSxwzQCe_ryU6rdUMZm3dPp5RZgOTqjnDff7nvHi-Hdrn2K4E3Pz-hPyVUgMVAC7L5QTYMzjHDMBTW1NaZsvpALHMFfP-W1D7B/s400/One-ArmRocks-FINAL.JPG" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;">One-Arm Rocks is a curiosity. Read any printed guidebook covering these problems and most of the problems are described as "one-armed problems." WTF? The most extreme example of curious "problems" is a gymnastic move Rob Candelaria performed out a roof behind One-Arm Rocks in the late 1970's. Find it and try a reverse mantel (Pat Ament refers to this move as a front pull-over), where you begin sitting with your back to a flakey roof. Lean back and do a partial pull-up - lifting your ass off the ground - then throw your legs over your head onto the top of the boulder. I'm sure Rob and others did it with style, but to passersby that day I'm sure I looked like a fool just trying to repeat it. To me, the one-arm problems are silly endeavors, but decide for yourself. Most folks forego the circus tricks and one-armed problems for moderate TWO-ARMED pulling on nice roadside boulders. </span><b><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">Where:</span></span></b><span style="font-size: small;"> Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. One-Arm Rocks are located 15 yards east of the Crown Rock Parking Area, 30 feet from the road. You can't miss them.</span></div></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">1a&b. Smith's Face V2 (a) / V4/5 (b) ... FA: Richard Smith, 1967 (one-armed)</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Use both arms. Right next to the tree, ascend the left boulder’s north face. For V2, start on a left hand crimp over with the tree and any number of right hand holds (a). For V4/5, begin on opposing underclings (b), perch on a high feet and attempt to uncoil. A one-handed send of this rig from any starting holds would be interesting to watch, although Richard Smith was purportedly 6’7".</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">2. One-Arm Flake V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed)</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Use both arms. Start just below the incut sidepull flakey arête right of Smith’s Face and climb to the top using both arms. This is another confounding one-arm problem, although the ground has probably eroded a bit and it used to be possible to start on the incut flake.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">3. License Plate V6 sds ... FA: Marcelo Montalva, 2006</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Use both arms. This is a tricky and powerful sds to #2 that begins low with your LH on the sloping lip of the undercut and RH on an undercling sidepull under the little roof and about 18 inches off the ground. After 2-3 moves, you'll arrive at holds on #2, from which you can cruise to the top.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">4a&b. One Arm Overhang VB (a) / V1 sds (b) ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed) *</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;">For VB, ascend jugs on the bulging overhang up and right to the top using both arms (a). For a little more difficulty, a sds begins on thin crimps below (b). A one-arm ascent is fairly obvious ... from a stand start, thrutch up and right on jugs and rock over.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">5. Right Hand Arête V3 sds ... FA: Unknown</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
Begin awkwardly from a sds on the arête left of Right Hand Mantel and stay on the arête all the way to the top.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"></span><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">6. Right Hand Mantel V? ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed)</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Use one arm for this description. This is the classic of the one-arm problems, mostly because of the ridiculous and famous photos of Pat manteling out the topout using his right hand. Reach high to a small RH crimp, pull on and thrutch to an good incut on the left side of the high rail which you will need to mantel out. I have no idea how to grade one-arm problems, hence the question mark for the grade.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06;">7a&b. Right Hand Face V1 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *</span> </span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;">Use two arms. Start low with your LH on a good sidepull and RH in the slot (a) or begin awkwardly from a sds matched on the lowest obvious jug (b). From the LH sidepull and RH slot, make a long reach up and right to the starting crimp on #6 and head for the top. Most exit left at the top of the arête, but the best finish is straight up from the horizontal rail via a long reach to the very top of the block.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">8. Right of Passage V4/5 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001 </span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;">Use two arms. Begin from a sds on the far right with two LH fingers squeezed into a two-finger hole. Bump up to and establish your RH on the best part of the sloping rail, then reach way left to an undercling next to the slot on #7. Throw your right heel onto the sloping rail and do a huge crossover to the RH starting crimp for #6 before heading for the top. Again, the best finish is to head straight up from the high horizontal rail via a long reach. Tricky with really cool moves.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;">9. Rising Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: small;">Use two arms. On the other side of the right boulder, surf the lip to the top and pull over.</span></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6131183338904252232.post-90452588217144940462008-05-13T07:49:00.000-07:002010-03-23T02:00:19.283-07:00Lower Great Ridge Miniguide<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ZP6PcPSRsJmsbYTIzdPUZR7yuAH835K1mjW406RHXNDz7OYK-mKL0zSzaaP2kj6F_DFh82yclgqcGoDopkuE45arv7To7QRmOydLmPO_7VHK1H5brglzblY67EzbLpEq1wJrvGavN5rc/s1600-h/Triangles-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ZP6PcPSRsJmsbYTIzdPUZR7yuAH835K1mjW406RHXNDz7OYK-mKL0zSzaaP2kj6F_DFh82yclgqcGoDopkuE45arv7To7QRmOydLmPO_7VHK1H5brglzblY67EzbLpEq1wJrvGavN5rc/s400/Triangles-FINAL.JPG" vt="true" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsLs2OEe8lfB8Jya_rP23TdOsL8YDHGgDl4MnSLwS0KxoHTT6NWiLqflAVCX5qHLVtP_kxQEHz1q8j9SAvqg-a7U0WSGba_wK-evfShYkvCrz6yaU-uXeVZ7gBpFVWCLyyYR2XC6PEAmI/s1600-h/ProjectWall-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsLs2OEe8lfB8Jya_rP23TdOsL8YDHGgDl4MnSLwS0KxoHTT6NWiLqflAVCX5qHLVtP_kxQEHz1q8j9SAvqg-a7U0WSGba_wK-evfShYkvCrz6yaU-uXeVZ7gBpFVWCLyyYR2XC6PEAmI/s400/ProjectWall-FINAL.JPG" vt="true" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3258Nwb1pzU2DCtibl0y4S8gaBO3KzDh1eEjzcnsTVbYC8Y-6Nyoh7R0Dp94NRQ1qh6ZS0J4eYXCTOXGRevG-TzaIXhaeMEJOZSkH-z888b1laTgL17REUCmniK9OG7ma0FOsHq6fKjNv/s1600-h/OverhangWall-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3258Nwb1pzU2DCtibl0y4S8gaBO3KzDh1eEjzcnsTVbYC8Y-6Nyoh7R0Dp94NRQ1qh6ZS0J4eYXCTOXGRevG-TzaIXhaeMEJOZSkH-z888b1laTgL17REUCmniK9OG7ma0FOsHq6fKjNv/s400/OverhangWall-FINAL.JPG" vt="true" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-fRla2vBcWPZa06lR7pR5Icse9o0CbU_XtUYy0LW8iC8panAcKE1lVbyhUnYcG7YZegqupKYJAGp3uaemlJ6jdOY9YJ5izdt-7QwrzpEQDW_Kk2MzZGXgI8lyKJXQF5t7JojgWMUXltf/s1600-h/BOBoulders-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-fRla2vBcWPZa06lR7pR5Icse9o0CbU_XtUYy0LW8iC8panAcKE1lVbyhUnYcG7YZegqupKYJAGp3uaemlJ6jdOY9YJ5izdt-7QwrzpEQDW_Kk2MzZGXgI8lyKJXQF5t7JojgWMUXltf/s400/BOBoulders-FINAL.JPG" vt="true" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixV4CutiEApP0ngfBD0iSwOIlUFkitNeYLWAofFAb9io7akVk3iiWn7L94Z5uzGL-hXnqLIYGCU9XRIdTa5IPogqp1mCM-hzXo_NRM4vJ2sSylTNiYwj6vt7G7hfzkENcBZ_KlANsAOguJ/s1600-h/BigOverhang-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixV4CutiEApP0ngfBD0iSwOIlUFkitNeYLWAofFAb9io7akVk3iiWn7L94Z5uzGL-hXnqLIYGCU9XRIdTa5IPogqp1mCM-hzXo_NRM4vJ2sSylTNiYwj6vt7G7hfzkENcBZ_KlANsAOguJ/s400/BigOverhang-FINAL.JPG" vt="true" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPQZfthrVuBfGk8BGlwDVeVcG3E8Z-JBdIgA83g2sk_eR2S0zdFfHylMYKQSTt_ODiDc8AhjPLbAzG1wwVZX3cD9GuxaPHPBSwBtDnto-yWkSpQBpjZN7fKDCjrYbKAhOXdnh4zlEhCWSD/s1600-h/BalanceOverhang+TLDN-FINAL.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPQZfthrVuBfGk8BGlwDVeVcG3E8Z-JBdIgA83g2sk_eR2S0zdFfHylMYKQSTt_ODiDc8AhjPLbAzG1wwVZX3cD9GuxaPHPBSwBtDnto-yWkSpQBpjZN7fKDCjrYbKAhOXdnh4zlEhCWSD/s400/BalanceOverhang+TLDN-FINAL.JPG" vt="true" width="300" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The central feature of the Lower Great Ridge is a 30-40' overhanging </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">cliffband</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">, much of which is unfortunately composed of rock of poor quality. The surrounding overhangs and boulders do, however, possess a number of moderate problems on better rock, most notably Big Overhang, which should be on any </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">boulderer's</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> short list of the best V2s in Colorado. </span></span><strong><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where:</span></span></span></strong><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of the road opposite the Crown Rock Parking Area. Stay right at the first split and you will walk right up to the middle of the south face of the Pebble Wall. Turn left, head up the stairs and turn left again when you get to the top of the stairs. Ten yards later, when you round a corner, a social trail will head directly uphill along the </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">cliffband</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">. All but a couple of the problems in this </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">miniguide</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> are located a short jaunt up this hill. Problems #1 & 2 are located on a small formation 30 yards southwest of the </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">cliffband</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">.</span></span></div><div><div><div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">TRIANGLES OVERHANG</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">1. Triangle Love V1 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">This formation is located about 30 yards west of the Lower Great Ridge proper and still has a bit of lichen up high on both problems. Begin from a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> under the right side of the overhang, and climb straight out the right side of the overhang to the top.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">2. Love Triangle V1 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
From the same </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> as #1, slide left after the first move and climb out the left side of the overhang until you can join the finish with #1.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">PROJECT WALL</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">3. Project</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I sure wanted to do this beautiful line before I published this information ... oh well. Located at the lower terminus of the Lower Great Ridge, a lot of Flagstaff </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">aficionados</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> have looked at this line and wondered. To put it bluntly, the rock quality on this wall is quite poor. There is some better quality rock underneath the </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">choss</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> and a bit of aggressive cleaning on </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_13"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">toprope</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> might yield an impressive highball problem with sketchy but climbable rock. Initially, cleaning this on </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_14"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_13"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">toprope</span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> is the only way to go on this one. The landing is poor and the last time I tried to climb this on TR, 15+ "holds" broke off or exploded in my hands.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">OVERHANG WALL</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">4a&b. Southwest Face VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">At the lower end of the main wall, choose a path up the first 15 to 20 feet (a or b), then find your way up really poor quality rock to the high seam and and better rock that leads to the top. The rock quality is poor until the end and falling would be a very bad idea from way up there. You've been warned.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">5. Short Crack V1 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The </span></span><em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">short</span></span></em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> crack that isn't. On the left side of an overhanging bulge, bust out the overhang (crux) near a seam to a stance then continue out the high easy dihedral to the top. I suppose the topout is really optional. Don't fall from up there.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">6. Cove Crack V2 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start low in the short pin-scarred overhanging crack at the upper end of the main wall and pull the bulge up to a stance, where you can walk off to the left. A low-quality problem for several reasons. If someone sacks up and continues out the overhanging face above, well ... then we will have something.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">FRAGGLE ROCKS</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">7. Right Boulder V0 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_13"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_14"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on the far right of the right boulder, surmount the right boulder's overhang in the center.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">8. Boulders Traverse V1/2 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_15"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From the same </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_16"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> as #7 on the far left, surf the lip of the boulders to a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_17"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">topout</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> on the far left.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">9. Low Splitter V2 </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_18"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Begin from a </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_19"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">sds</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> under the boulders at their juncture. Painfully jam your hands in there just right and bust out the overhang.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">10. Left Boulder VB ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start matched on the far left of the left boulder, surf right a move or two and surmount the short overhang.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red; font-family: inherit;">BIG OVERHANG</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">11. The Horn V1/2 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Scramble up onto a ledge on the right and reach high out over space for </span></span><em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">the horn (</span></span></em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">reach-dependent) and ascend good holds up and over to the top finishing with #13.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">12. Barbarosa V8? ... FA: Ian Irving, 2001/2</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A dyno problem that I've been told is more difficult than Flagstaff Mountain's infamous dyno problem Double Clutch. Start on good holds at the bottom of the overhang including a good flake for the RH and dyno 6+ feet up and right to </span></span><em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">the horn</span></span></em><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> (the starting hold for #11). Finish with #11.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: inherit;">13. Big Overhang V2 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I'm disappointed we don't know who put this ultra-classic up, since it is among the best problems on the mountain and in contention for the best V2s in Colorado with the likes of Right el Skyland in Crested Butte and The Bog's Indian Ladder in Poudre Canyon. Climb out the well-chalked flakes and incuts to the lip, get a high right foot and make a reach up and right to another jug and pull over.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">14. Big Overhang Direct V3 ... FA: Unknown *</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start up the overhang with #13, but pull directly out the lip without the benefit of the good right foot or the final jug out right over the lip. Maybe try this finishing variation for style points after doing the ultra-classic #13.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">15. Big Overhang Indirect V3/4 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start up the overhang with #13 & 14, but slide left across the last rail on the face until you can make a reach up and left, finishing near or on the </span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_23"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">arêt</span></span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_24"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">e </span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">with #16.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">16. The Spike V0 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start up the left side of the wall, arriving at a spike of rock half-way up. Use some features around the corner to stand on top of the spike continue up and over.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">BALANCE OVERHANG</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">17. Balance Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start on the shelf, perch up on the shelf and reach up and right out the overhang to the lip and pull over.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">18. Balance Overhang Direct V? ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start the same as #17, but use three smallish edges/pockets on the face to move up and left to the top and finish. The slabby boulder below makes a fall from the topout potentially dangerous, so place your pads and spotters strategically.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #ffff33;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">19. Unknown V? ... FA: Unknown</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Again, start the same as #17 and #18, but traverse left (staying low) avoiding the slab behind you. A longish move to reach the a</span></span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_27"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">rêt</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">e and you're on your way to the top. Have your cat-like skills at the ready if you blow the easier topout above the slab. I'm pretty sure this one was established recently ... if you know who did it, have them contact me or leave me a message about it so I can pimp them for info.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: yellow;">20. Tiny's Low Down Nasty V2 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2005</span><br />
Begin from a sds matched on a large flake on the downhill side of this west-facing squatty boulder and traverse left and slightly uphill, making use of several obvious pockets and edges along the lip. At the uphill end of the boulder, press out a mantle on jugs.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>chufferhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07872311301653052871noreply@blogger.com4